This is an '87 FourTrax 2wd. The actual drain plug had been stripped out so we used a rubber universal "plug" type.

It worked just fine for a year, but seem to be getting louder, ticking noise thru that time.

Recently, it stopped running while riding it on the trail. The plug had come loose, and some oil ran out, but not all, until stopping and then the remainder of the oil came out.

Since then, the ticking noise seems to be twice as loud. Can anyone tell me what might be causing this?

I've seen posts of timing chain, piston slap, etc.?



Thanks so much in advance,

Chris

 

Sounds like valvetrain clatter to me, have you set the valves lately? Some Hondas use a hardened tip on the rocker arm that has been know to wear out,could be the oil loss accelerated wear on the rocker or the cam lobe, increasing the lash on the valve/rocker arm clearance. It is too tinny and metallic to be a rod knock or piston slap, I would check the valves, and see if the cam chain tension is good, could be a stretched chain or stuck auto adjuster too. Seems to start and idle fine, could be a good valve set is all you need, and a decent drain plug. Look into the metal self tapping ones, go up one size to get fresh threads, and you should be good to go again.

 

Yeah, sounds like mine right before i dropped a valve and laid a hole in the piston. Had to get a new tensionser, adjustment and all... (not to mention the piston and valve)

 

I agree sounds like tensioner has had better days

 

You first need to attend the stripped out drain plug issue,,Get the next size larger fine thread tap,slather it in grease,tap the drain hole out slowly,and stopping often to remove,clean metal off tap,n reapply new grease,install a new appropriate sized drain plug,and washer using a 1/4" drive ratchet,and socket to just snug tight..DON'T bow up on it!!! Remove,clean/replace the oil filter element,and o ring,fill with the proper amount of GN4 type wet clutch spec oil,or Rotella T6 full synthetic(under 20 bux a gallon at wally world) ...Next you need to adjust the valves to proper specs...Removing the valve cover instead of the adjustment covers at this time will allow you to do multiple things: Check the camshaft for wear/scoring/etc,check the camshafts journals for galding/scoring/wear,check the timing chain for excessive wear(out of specs),allows you to ascertain if your getting any oil to the top end through the external oil pipe ..It has an auto tensioner,and if it is all the way out,and yer chain has slop in it,it's going to be a very noisy engine unless you replace the timing chain (use DID brand chains only),and possibly the chain guides which may also be worn out...If you find no bad wear,no stretched timing chain,or guides,adjust the valves,remove the plug n spin engine over to make certain it's getting oil to the top end before you sparingly use a quality semi hardening gasket sealer,or maker( I do not recommend using an rtv silly cone type gasket material on here as the excess can,and usually does fall off,and clog the oil pump screen,and oil journals) on the rocker cover,and use that 1/4" ratchet to tighten bolts to just snug, DON'T torque down on them...When you drain the oil,if there's any left in it,check to see what all comes out in it,and flush the bottom end with a quart of warm oil before you install new plug,and fill...See what comes out:lots of aluminum particles,or fine metal shavings= not good...teenie little fine metal "dust"particles=normal ...Good luck n I wouldn't run that engine anymore without the appropriate amount of proper fresh oil,or it might not last you very much longer...

 

Update: Oil filter was in backwards. I swear, some days it simply doesn't pay to get out if bed!

Runs fine but the ticking is still there of course. Dealer found filter backwards and said they did a compression test. Said it is shot. Yet my son road it briefly last pm thinking they had fixed it. Seems to have power.

What should be done at this point? Dealer said $11000.00 in just parts, rtacing all wear parts calves, etc in engine. I'm confused.

Time to buy a manual?

Thanks to all for your help!

Chris

 

$11,000 in parts? don't fall for that trick. buy a new quad!

 

Bull. Bad compression could be from a valve not seating, and is most likely the case since you're not blowing smoke all over the place. Pull the valve cover off and see what you can find.

 

That dealer is a crook, the sound coming from your engine is a tinny, metallic clatter, that comes from loose valves or a sloppy timing chain, go to Auto Zone, buy a compression meter and take your own reading, I'll bet its ok, just needs a valve lash set or a chain. I totally agree with the above posts, if it was shot, it would be knocking from down below, a hollow, slapping sound, and be blowing smoke if the valves or rings were shot. At worst, you may have scored or damaged the cam, and need to find a good used one, easy to do on eBay.

 

Correction-- $1100.00!!! Sry