Couple of items:

I have learned a lot, and avoided a bunch, from the posts of my fellow Ruby owners. Hopefully, my miniscule contribution can make your ownership experience a little easier! With over 1900 miles on my Ruby, it still has never let me down, but this brake problem was the biggest concern I have encountered so far. Thanks, folks!

 

Just as a side note this can and will happen to any Honda. Its just a matter of time.

 

Hey Bob & Mike how you guys doing haven't heard from you for awhile,I also own a Honda now.See ya on the trails.Daryl

 

Well Gentlemen, I'm pleased to report that I finally got it off. Apparently, I wasn't getting it hot enough. For future reference, it's just a matter of holding the torch on it while working the arm back and forth. When it gets hot enough, it will break free, and loosen up. I guess patience isn't one of my strong points. I still plan on drilling and tapping it for a zerk. I'm going to wait until I replace the seals that I melted. Thanks for all the info and suggestions.

 

maybe i should check mine.. i never get much water up that high though besides a quick dunk threw creeks

 

First: Hey, Truck, good to hear from you, and looking forward to hooking up with you at Big Rock this winter.

Second: Way to go, Rubidude! We were pulling for ya!

Third: On the zerk fitting: I recommend that you put it on the bottom half of the brake pedal, slightly pointed toward the back of the bike. This is when you are looking at the pedal installed. That way, you can get the grease gun in from underneath the footrest, coming forward from the rear wheel, without haviung to dismantle any of the body pieces. Check your position before you drill, but this is the least disruptive spot. And I again must thank TRX450 (or 4-Man-S) for helping me figure that out!

 

HEY Truck--- We should go to Hanging Rock sometime. It is over by Ironton, Oh., on the river. Shouldn't be too long a drive for you. 2 1/2 hr for me. Bob has ridden it and deems it pretty cool, and in some sections, even Hatfield/McCoy like! I haven't ,but will, before they close it for the winter(Dec15)! Let me or RuBob know.

 

Hey guys we are game it will have to be on a sunday,you pick it we will be there.I hunt every saturday so that is out till the end of december,but any sunday is ok.Daryl

 

TRUCK-- Bob and I will try to get a date together. He is going to Fla. this week and part(?) of next. We are going to Hat/McCoy on Thanksgiving. Somewhere in there, we'll get this ride in!
Been riding WNF, LOgan a TON! Like about every w.e. this summer. Also got in 2 H/M trips this year. Trying for 3 TOTAL! One word describes H/M.. AWESOME!!!!!!!

 

Here is a tip for putting in a zerk without having to remove the pedal. Worked on my Fourtrax. About the only special tools required would be a welder, preferably a wire-feed. Hopefully, if you don't have one, you know someone who does.
Materials required are a small threaded zerk (1/4 x 28 thread) and a matching nut (1/4 x 28 or 1/4 inch fine thread)

1. drill a small hole where you want the zerk. Be sure you do it in such a location that you can get a welder to it.

2. Weld on a 1/4 inch fine threaded nut (28 threads per inch) centered over the hole. Weld all the way around the nut so it 'seals'. It may be easier to do if you tip the ATV on its side (may or may not have to remove footrest)

3. While still hot from being welded, wiggle the brake lever to break it loose if it has siezed. Mine hadn't siezed yet, so this was easy.

4. When it gets cool enough to touch with your hands, thread the zerk into the nut, and immediately pump in a couple shots of grease. The remaining heat will help the grease penetrate any rust.

This works for anywhere you want a zerk, and otherwise couldn't tap threads into the hole. I have a friend who uses JB weld, but I prefer a 'real' weld. As long as you can get grease in there, and get the lever to wiggle, you got it made. Welding a little nut also subjects your ATV to a LOT less heat than a torch.