Motorcycle oil VS Auto oil
#1
Here's a link I found on another forum. It makes for some good reading if you've evr wondered about what oil to use in your ATV.
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm
#2
I too have read this item, I also read on the web somewhere that Castrol paid through a grant to have that study done. I'm not saying it's true, just that I read that.
There's so much BS being passed around, I wish the oil companies would come clean and tell us what's ok and what's not.
You can find info supporting the use of everything from AMSOIL to Pig fat in atv's. For now I'll stick with GN4 for my foreman until someone comes up with a definitive answer.
It's not that that much more money and I know I'm using the right stuff.
I'd like to use a synthetic, because from what I read everyone agrees that synthetics are best, but Honda specifically states not to use synthetic in their ATV's. So go figure. I'm sure it won't hurt it, as my Polaris comes with syn oil from the factory.
If you ask 25 people, you get 25 different answers, so I decided to use Honda oil and ride more and think about it less.
Bob
There's so much BS being passed around, I wish the oil companies would come clean and tell us what's ok and what's not.
You can find info supporting the use of everything from AMSOIL to Pig fat in atv's. For now I'll stick with GN4 for my foreman until someone comes up with a definitive answer.
It's not that that much more money and I know I'm using the right stuff.
I'd like to use a synthetic, because from what I read everyone agrees that synthetics are best, but Honda specifically states not to use synthetic in their ATV's. So go figure. I'm sure it won't hurt it, as my Polaris comes with syn oil from the factory.
If you ask 25 people, you get 25 different answers, so I decided to use Honda oil and ride more and think about it less.
Bob
#3
Yup, a lot of different opinions about this. All I know is synthetic outperforms ANY conventional motor oil in cold or hot conditions, which we can encounter here in the NW, sometimes on the same day. Maybe I'm so used to using it in everything I just feel squirrely with the other stuff. The clutches in our Rancher and Recon work well, and I feel better knowing I'm doing the best I can for wear in the engine, tranny, and rear end (Mobil 1 gear oil). I use 10w-30 all year, change it often enough because of possible clutch contaminates--which I'm not convinced of--and because the Recon doesn't have an external oil filter (c'mon Honda).
But I realize there are concerns about wet clutches, and I hear Mobil is coming out with a synthetic designed for them. I wonder though if they're doing that only because of the questions and not because something different is really necessary. Possibly in a higher-performance quad it is.
But I realize there are concerns about wet clutches, and I hear Mobil is coming out with a synthetic designed for them. I wonder though if they're doing that only because of the questions and not because something different is really necessary. Possibly in a higher-performance quad it is.
#4
Most is true, some such as
". Also, it should be noted that ZDDP is a "last line of defense"-type additive, generally only coming into play under extremely severe conditions where actual metal-to-metal contact occurs within an engine, something that should never happen under normal operating conditions"
Is not. I have tosted a upper rod on my Big Red when pulling a heavy trailler floored in low range up a 5 mile hill useing havoline 30w oil. that zddp and snythtic oil would have saved it!
FACT is if you ever approch redline your cam/rockers/rod berrings are very close to metal to metal- as for my Toyota? I have also lost a rod from reving it to far as well, 50MPH in 2nd while wheeling threw 3 feet of snow.
". Also, it should be noted that ZDDP is a "last line of defense"-type additive, generally only coming into play under extremely severe conditions where actual metal-to-metal contact occurs within an engine, something that should never happen under normal operating conditions"
Is not. I have tosted a upper rod on my Big Red when pulling a heavy trailler floored in low range up a 5 mile hill useing havoline 30w oil. that zddp and snythtic oil would have saved it!
FACT is if you ever approch redline your cam/rockers/rod berrings are very close to metal to metal- as for my Toyota? I have also lost a rod from reving it to far as well, 50MPH in 2nd while wheeling threw 3 feet of snow.
#5
Here's what I know from experience.
Long before I bought my 400EX, buddies of mine that ran GN-4 in theirs had to constantly top off their oil in warmer months, due to the GN-4 breaking down from engine heat, and being burned up. One guy switched to regular Castrol GTX 10W-40 three years ago, changes his oil every four rides, and has suffered no apparent heartaches from doing so. The others switched to Mobil1, and swear by it.
After I bought my EX, I called Curtis Sparks' shop to get their input. They told me that they have tried everything under the sun, and have found that Kendall GT1, with an energy release additive, works best for them. They have been using for ten years, on four stroke race machines, and are sticking to it.
I do run GN-4 in my Kodiak, with good results. Granted, the type of riding I do on the Kodiak is totally different than I do on the EX. The majority of EX riders at another forum seem to prefer Mobil1.
Long before I bought my 400EX, buddies of mine that ran GN-4 in theirs had to constantly top off their oil in warmer months, due to the GN-4 breaking down from engine heat, and being burned up. One guy switched to regular Castrol GTX 10W-40 three years ago, changes his oil every four rides, and has suffered no apparent heartaches from doing so. The others switched to Mobil1, and swear by it.
After I bought my EX, I called Curtis Sparks' shop to get their input. They told me that they have tried everything under the sun, and have found that Kendall GT1, with an energy release additive, works best for them. They have been using for ten years, on four stroke race machines, and are sticking to it.
I do run GN-4 in my Kodiak, with good results. Granted, the type of riding I do on the Kodiak is totally different than I do on the EX. The majority of EX riders at another forum seem to prefer Mobil1.
#6
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