What kind of oil goes in my 400EX?
#4
use a premium 4 stroke motorcycle oil. the cheep stuff isn't good enough to withstand the temps of a hi performance engine. you don't have to stick with the honda brand. Your local shop will have Torco, Yamaha, Castrol, ect. Just make sure you get stuff designed for motorcycle engines.
#7
This yamalube, hondalube, kawalube, whatever. It all brakes down to what the manufactures want you to buy to make them more money. The myth between motorcycle oil and car oil one can't be used with the other bull**** is not true.
In multi weight oils 10w30, 10w40, 20w50, ect. It all breaks downs to this, the number at the end represents the weight the oil is at when cold. The first number represents the weight the oil is at when the engine has reached operating temp. The viscosities break down like this A 5w runs at 3.5, 10w runs at 5.3, 15w runs at 7.5, 20w runs at 9.5. Give or take these readings. If you get into straight weights like HD30,40,50 you have a higher viscosity reading which means more protection. HD30 runs at 11.5 at operating temp. thats the kind of protection I'm looking for I don't know about the rest of you guys and your yamalube. But if I can run my machine for 1000 miles pull the dipstick when hot and rub the oil between my fingers and feel my skin, think about whats going on between the piston and cylinder. Nevermind the wear thats going on at the the clutch and the micro particles the oil filter can't pick up. (ex. 5w, 10w, yamalube.)
Another thing is never run a synthetic based oil the chemical properties of the synthetic oil make it so that the clutch can't fully grab making the clutch slip. This gives you a false representation that your clutch is worn out.
All in all is I run mobil, castrol, pennzoil. I spend $1.50 a quart while you guys spend $4.99 a quart for hondalube thats most likely made by one of the the same companies I have listed at the begining of this paragraph.
2000 POLARIS SCRAMBLER 400 2X4
SCRAMDADDY400
In multi weight oils 10w30, 10w40, 20w50, ect. It all breaks downs to this, the number at the end represents the weight the oil is at when cold. The first number represents the weight the oil is at when the engine has reached operating temp. The viscosities break down like this A 5w runs at 3.5, 10w runs at 5.3, 15w runs at 7.5, 20w runs at 9.5. Give or take these readings. If you get into straight weights like HD30,40,50 you have a higher viscosity reading which means more protection. HD30 runs at 11.5 at operating temp. thats the kind of protection I'm looking for I don't know about the rest of you guys and your yamalube. But if I can run my machine for 1000 miles pull the dipstick when hot and rub the oil between my fingers and feel my skin, think about whats going on between the piston and cylinder. Nevermind the wear thats going on at the the clutch and the micro particles the oil filter can't pick up. (ex. 5w, 10w, yamalube.)
Another thing is never run a synthetic based oil the chemical properties of the synthetic oil make it so that the clutch can't fully grab making the clutch slip. This gives you a false representation that your clutch is worn out.
All in all is I run mobil, castrol, pennzoil. I spend $1.50 a quart while you guys spend $4.99 a quart for hondalube thats most likely made by one of the the same companies I have listed at the begining of this paragraph.
2000 POLARIS SCRAMBLER 400 2X4
SCRAMDADDY400
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#9
after we built our 465EX we found out replaceing fiber's became a pain, because no one told us that with a wet clutch using sysnt. oil even 1/2 blended sysnt. oil would waste our clutch fibers because of slipping. All I can say is don't use it! As oil goes in our veh. We allways use the best we can buy, its only $12 for a couply of QT's anyways.We allways change the spark plugs $2 ouch, oil filter every other change,and C12 in the tank $15 a tank full. So what---expensive---I dont think so. Our ATV's love us And we love them.----But you can Allways buy the cheep stuff if you have too.
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