I myself have a Rancher ES 4x4 and i just picked up a Rancher ES 2x4 for the wife.I always go over any new Quad and check it out really good before i ride it.Well after adjusting everything to the book specs i noticed that the right front tire was towed way out.I called the dealer and he told me to wrap a piece of string all the way around the machine,at center of tire height.Next he told me to sit on machine and put handle bars as straight as possible and i should have approx 1/8" space at rear of front tire in relation to string both left and right.Well it wasn't even close,so i loostened all four locknuts on steering rods(both sides)and adjusted toe-in until i achieved this dimension.I then tightened everything back up and took it for a test ride and the machine tracked perfect.I then made the same adjustment on the 4x4 after I noticed that when the handle bars were straight the machine went hard left.After checking it with the string i noticed it too was way out.Now they both track perfect.Does anyone know of a better way ???I also made sure that the tires had the correct pressure before checking alignment.

 

As you can tell by my post the dealer takes the machine out of the crate and puts gas in it and deliveres it.But he really gives me a heck of a good price with free dilivery !

 

I was told to do the string thing also.

 

This is the way that we set the front end on or race quads. We have two way that it can be done. Both ways set on the quad and center the bars. Using a tape measure, Measure across the front and the rear of the front tires. (I dont think I said that right, hope you understand) The measurement at the front of the tires at axle height should be about 1/8 to 1/4" less than the measurement at the rear of the tire.
Another way is using two people and a long straight edge. Place the straight edge, again at axle height, against the rear tire. Them have the other person measure the distance on the front tire, at the front and the rear of the side walls. I learned this method from Bob Sloan at Blackwater in '91.
Remember to recheck both sides after you adjust one side, because it will cause the other side to move. Then like you did take it for a test ride. I have never heard of the method with the string. If I understand it correctly, you would have the frontend toed out, instead of in or straight. Best of luck. Also go over your quad and check for loose nuts and bolts.

many 250r's
87 250x
99 400ex

 

Thanks for the front end alignment tip Bzizzi I had my Rancher for quite a while and noticed from day 1 the wheels looked to be towed out. Well I did the string thing and what a difference in the tracking. It rolls down the hills and everywhere much better, I think it will even be better on gas. Can't help but wonder if Honda did this for a safety feature to make the quad slow down better going down hills. I can even notice a difference pushing the quad in the garage. One little tip that you may or may not have tried, is when shifting down if you give the quad a blip on the throttle at the same time you downshift it seems to make things work a lot smoother. CYA

 

Hiya---

The Honda Rancher manual says 1/8" +or- 9/16 toe in for the 4x2, 3/4"+or-9/16 toe out for the 4x4 (to compensate for driveline torque?), measured at the tire center. Our 4x2 was toed out 3/4" from the dealer--looked worse than that, pretty goofy, but I didn't notice till after we had used it the first time. At first I thought we had bent something doing some small jumps, but it seemed to handle okay. I did the straightedge-against-the-back-tires deal to get it around 3/16" toe-in. Our Recon was okay.

Hope it helps some, Gooch

 

Hi Gooch did you say the manual says 3/4" tow out on the 4x4? I did the string thing and measured at the front of the tire I beleive on your post you said something about the center of the tire. Why would they have to be towed out for front end torque? I got mine a touch over 1/8 at the front of the tire and it seems to be great. Just curios thanks.

 

Hello Terry:

The torque thing was only speculation on my part, as that's the main difference between the two (weight difference is only 25lbs or something) and it seems plausible that they might allow for that. Instead of an axle being pushed along and the wheels spreading some, it's doing some pulling of its own. But I'm new to atvs so maybe this is all hoo-hah on my part. There's a wide latitude in the toe-out spec though if I'm doing the math right, which is no sure deal with me.

Gooch

 

The toe out is for stability. The Atv is more stable at high speed when toed out. If the front wheels ran true the steering would be ultra sensitive and any bumps or pot holes at higher speeds could send you into the rhubarb. With the higher toe out it is harder on front tires, but may also help decrease the turning radius as the tire to the inside of the turn will be turned a little sharper then the other.
Hope this helps!
Jeff

 

Geez I have aligned the front end on a number of quads including Hondas. I always use a tape measure, and I ALWAYS set them evenly. Toe-out will cause oversteer and
a dart-out effect, Toe-in causes understeer.
Silly Later,,, Fourlix

Arctic Cat500 Auto, Polaris 425 Expedition, Polaris 325 Magnum, I know, What the hell am I doing over here?