N.D. ATV Newb (4x for $4K!!!)
#1
So, went a bit off the wall a few weeks ago. Bought 4 ATV's for $4K total. Don't get too excited. It's not all roses and perfume.
#1 - 2005 Arctic Cat 400 4x4, manual, windshield, winch, 50" plow, rear rack box. Except for a couple scratches in the windshield and some really small pieces of decals missing here and there, perfect shape. The guy estimates he's got maybe 150 hours on it, only used in the winter to go out on the lake ice fishing on the weekends. Is there a "name" for these?
#2 - 2006 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO, winch, 48" plow. Completely rideable, but needs a bit of work to get it into top shape. 370 hours on the clock, 3800 miles.
Decals are a bit chewed up, but aren't horrible.
Two smallish cracks in the plastic that are stopped drilled, but don't look like they'll go any farther.
Front lower ***** joints are shot on both sides.
Both tie rod ends are shot as well.
Not entirely sure, but I think it's going to need new CV joints all the way around I'm hearing some CV joint type clicks in reverse.
Acts like the drive belt might be a bit worn as it doesn't act like it's fully engaged until about 2000 rpm or so. Should be about 1300-ish RPM if I read right.
Rear/Aux brake pedal doesn't seem to do anything. Don't know if it's a function of worn pads or empty master cylinder or what yet.
Speedometer needle fell off at some point thru the years. Ebay for ~$300. I can do without it.
It's pretty much obvious the previous owner didn't take care of it as the air box was full of crap and the drain hose was plugged up with various brands of goo. Thinking about dropping it off at a local shop and get it fully serviced end to end by the pro's vs. piecing it together myself.
#3/#4 - 2 1997 Kawasaki Prairie 400's. Basket cases, tore up, chewed up, and spit out.
#3 - CDI box, carb, recoil, brake levers, primary/secondary clutch, all missing, as well as most of the plastic missing or broken to shreds. Engine has compression, and transmission seems smooth enough. BUT, the crank end (primary clutch) threads are damaged because the clown that had it before me tried to use a regular ol' gear puller to get the clutch off. Good luck finding a tap for that, and good luck being able to tap hardened steel. Probably easier just to replace the right crank half. Not going to do anything with this one other than strip it for parts. I've got a couple of 48V electric forklift motors (otherwise known as 6.7" motors), and the knowledge to build some crazy electric vehicle stuff. Maybe I'll shoot for an electric ATV...for the heck of it...
#4 - A bit better than #3, but not by much. Plastics mostly missing/broken, shift linkages missing. Engine starts and runs. Seems like it'll be ok once I get the carb cleaned out, new plug, etc., BUT, the transmission is/was stuck in reverse. Pulled the case halves apart (and yes, I've got the proper clutch removal tool for this application) and found the tang at the end of the For/Rev shift lever was broken off and laying in the bottom of the case. I just opened up #3's case today and pulled the shift shaft out of it for transplant into #4's engine/transmission. Should be good, but still have to come up with plastics.
I think I did pretty good for $4K, and the kids are having a blast riding around the yard...but they're 7 and 3, so Mom and Dad have to take them around. So, who's having the fun now?
#1 - 2005 Arctic Cat 400 4x4, manual, windshield, winch, 50" plow, rear rack box. Except for a couple scratches in the windshield and some really small pieces of decals missing here and there, perfect shape. The guy estimates he's got maybe 150 hours on it, only used in the winter to go out on the lake ice fishing on the weekends. Is there a "name" for these?
#2 - 2006 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO, winch, 48" plow. Completely rideable, but needs a bit of work to get it into top shape. 370 hours on the clock, 3800 miles.
Decals are a bit chewed up, but aren't horrible.
Two smallish cracks in the plastic that are stopped drilled, but don't look like they'll go any farther.
Front lower ***** joints are shot on both sides.
Both tie rod ends are shot as well.
Not entirely sure, but I think it's going to need new CV joints all the way around I'm hearing some CV joint type clicks in reverse.
Acts like the drive belt might be a bit worn as it doesn't act like it's fully engaged until about 2000 rpm or so. Should be about 1300-ish RPM if I read right.
Rear/Aux brake pedal doesn't seem to do anything. Don't know if it's a function of worn pads or empty master cylinder or what yet.
Speedometer needle fell off at some point thru the years. Ebay for ~$300. I can do without it.
It's pretty much obvious the previous owner didn't take care of it as the air box was full of crap and the drain hose was plugged up with various brands of goo. Thinking about dropping it off at a local shop and get it fully serviced end to end by the pro's vs. piecing it together myself.
#3/#4 - 2 1997 Kawasaki Prairie 400's. Basket cases, tore up, chewed up, and spit out.
#3 - CDI box, carb, recoil, brake levers, primary/secondary clutch, all missing, as well as most of the plastic missing or broken to shreds. Engine has compression, and transmission seems smooth enough. BUT, the crank end (primary clutch) threads are damaged because the clown that had it before me tried to use a regular ol' gear puller to get the clutch off. Good luck finding a tap for that, and good luck being able to tap hardened steel. Probably easier just to replace the right crank half. Not going to do anything with this one other than strip it for parts. I've got a couple of 48V electric forklift motors (otherwise known as 6.7" motors), and the knowledge to build some crazy electric vehicle stuff. Maybe I'll shoot for an electric ATV...for the heck of it...
#4 - A bit better than #3, but not by much. Plastics mostly missing/broken, shift linkages missing. Engine starts and runs. Seems like it'll be ok once I get the carb cleaned out, new plug, etc., BUT, the transmission is/was stuck in reverse. Pulled the case halves apart (and yes, I've got the proper clutch removal tool for this application) and found the tang at the end of the For/Rev shift lever was broken off and laying in the bottom of the case. I just opened up #3's case today and pulled the shift shaft out of it for transplant into #4's engine/transmission. Should be good, but still have to come up with plastics.
I think I did pretty good for $4K, and the kids are having a blast riding around the yard...but they're 7 and 3, so Mom and Dad have to take them around. So, who's having the fun now?
#6
Welcome to the forums. Download a parts manual for the AC from K&T Parts House. Once you find the part# that you need, including decals, first try eBay, if no luck, Country Cat has given me great service. I have an 02 AC 400 manual shift, it's awesome!
#7
Bit of an update after a couple days of playing:
#1 - Same, same...
#2 - Turns out the 2005 Polaris Sportman 500 HO is actually a 2004. I would've known that if I would've scraped the muck off the frame rail.
Got a service manual for a 2005. Can anyone tell me if there's any major show stopping differences between the '04 and '05?
#3/#4 - Still basket cases...however... I got my neighbor (who is a MIG genius compared to me) to weld the For/Rev shift shaft pieces back together. Everything else inside the case looks good. Sprayed it all out, flushed out the ~20 years worth of crud. Sprayed the clutch out too. Probably shouldn't have done that. LOTS of black gunk flowed out of there...enough that it was still flowing after 3 cans of brake cleaner being sprayed in there.
#1 - Same, same...
#2 - Turns out the 2005 Polaris Sportman 500 HO is actually a 2004. I would've known that if I would've scraped the muck off the frame rail.
Got a service manual for a 2005. Can anyone tell me if there's any major show stopping differences between the '04 and '05?
#3/#4 - Still basket cases...however... I got my neighbor (who is a MIG genius compared to me) to weld the For/Rev shift shaft pieces back together. Everything else inside the case looks good. Sprayed it all out, flushed out the ~20 years worth of crud. Sprayed the clutch out too. Probably shouldn't have done that. LOTS of black gunk flowed out of there...enough that it was still flowing after 3 cans of brake cleaner being sprayed in there.
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#8
#9
They call it an "ECM" but is it really an "ECM"?
'cause heck, I've got a few remote control outlets around my house. Could call those "ECMs".
I'm assuming these "ECMs" don't do anything with fuel and just drive the spark/advance, maybe some starting interlock (eg. no crank unless it's in neutral,etc) that sort of thing.
'cause heck, I've got a few remote control outlets around my house. Could call those "ECMs".
I'm assuming these "ECMs" don't do anything with fuel and just drive the spark/advance, maybe some starting interlock (eg. no crank unless it's in neutral,etc) that sort of thing.
#10
Some people and manufacturers call an ecm as the "brain box" or ecu if it's a efi model. Polaris uses the this term ecm both ways and confuses people. The ecm in this case since it's a carb model handles quite a bit more that what you may be used to. It handles charging(replaces a regulator) controls the fan,has battery protection circuits,controls the hot light signal on the speedo,controls auxiliary power wires,plus has solid state circuit breakers. Again just pull the front panel. You might be lucky and have the regulator model that's close to the radiator. The ecm is at the top close to the steering post. OEM Surepower ECM 2004 2005 2006 Polaris Sportsman Scrambler 400 500 2203348 | eBay And they have a reputation of shorting out like this one.








