I ride at sea leavel and was woundering what size weights would work best 52, 54, 56, 58 or 60 grams.

 

Anyone selling weights should be able to help.

But here is the real way to tell.
Find out at what RPM's, the V makes the most power, on the p650 it at 6500 rpm stock.

Get or borrow a tach,
make a run,
If your RPM's are down from where the V makes the most power, you need lighter weights, to bring the rpm's up.
If it over, than heavier to bring the rpm's down.

That's a general summary, different weights have different mass from tip to tail and different curves which will change what I said above, so I was speaking of the same type and style of weights.

Kawasaki does a good job of clutching from the factory, so the stock weights are really close.

 

Shotgun has give you a very good description of the basics of flyweights and their function.
Although it may sound like I'm on the net to sell product,it is not my intention.We do receive many calls regarding flyweights,with people ONLY referring to GRAMS.As shotgun explained,flyweight design and function can act very differently with respect to design,curvature,and location of mass.GRAMS alone should not be the only description.
The stock weights on a V are 54g with a standard kawasaki curvature(flatter than most snowmobile curvatures)
For our Dalton weights The easiest thing(production wise )that we could have done is work around an already existing snowmobile curvature,because we already have male and female multiple fixturing for the cnc machines etc. after various testing we went back to the stock kawaski curvature for a few reasons(one of the biggest ones being low speed belt grip) .The stock curvature allows the weight to be more"untucked"(swung out further) on belt contact,which offers better low speed belt force, as well as offering higher rpm while swinging more weight mass. Another reason for the stock curvature is that it offers equal force patterns when used along with othr stock kawie weights(with 2 oposite each other for case specific applications).Possibly the KAWASAKI engineers knew what they were doing with the curvature they chose? The Daltonpro kfx weights also have holes in them for 2 reasons. One being the distribution of mass,the other to offer flexibility in tuning for future mods ,by the use of mass rivets.
The DPK58 (V force)weights load the engine harder than stock weights at mid shift while still revving similar to the stock weights. Some guys with NOS add large rivets to the outbound hole to control rpm and hard upshift on top end of the shift pattern .(their biggest problem is that they shift now through belt travel real quick and they long for taller gearing)
As for the Bellybuster weights,I am not sure which gram increment is best for your needs ,but I'm sure their tech guys could suggest the best one for your application.They have always been a good company with quality products. Hope this helps

 

Coolintheice;

There you have it, Helix knows the most about weights and clutching on the forum.

Give him a call, before you buy the Belly Busters......Dalton Industries, 902-897-3333

Dalton Industries

 

I was planing on ordering from Dalton, but I was just curious about the Belly Busters. Thanks for the help.

 

I ran the belly busters before I heard of Dalton. I now have Dalton and I tossed the paper wieghts,,, I mean belly busters! Dalton is the only way to go if you want anything other than stock!

 

helix, has any work been done in the changing of the rear end of the v-force to produce a higher gear for more top end speed, i have already installed the dalton kit with the dalton plate, but i still get beat on top end by the 450's. thanks for all the help, hope you have more to come

crashdog

 

If you look at the previous posts..or history archives, you'll see numerous posts on the EPI and Dalton setups. I used the EPI because the Dalton was not out yet. I'm very pleased with the results of the EPI on both my Vforce and my P700. They both used the same setup. Trying to describe briefly, I did not like the oem weights because the weight curve was not aggressive enough. I prefer hard acceleration. I had week midrange with the OEM weights because there was not enough "profile" to provide belt clamping and upshift pressure. Also, the shiftout RPM was to high and caused the motor to over rev and hence, decrease acceleration. I ordered the EPI kit and was totally confused as to the principles or theory on how the weights effected belt clamping, shiftout and power transfer. So, i ordered alot of spare weights and derived a baseline on a dyno to find out were peak power ACTUALLY occured. I also read alot about how the sled guys tune. The shop were I dyno'd are sled pro's(Hot To Go). After testing will different weights, I ended up with only a slight difference from what the actual EPI kit came with. Then it all made sense. Ty, at EPI, is an expert. Erlandsonperformance.com . It took me weeks to figure out what he tried to explain to me over a 15 minute conversation. But I just had to prove it.
EPI.

If you have a good pipe like Muzzy or Yoshi, you want to raise the shiftout a little. So you would use a slightly lighter weight. This is why it is important to get a dyno sheet of the pipe you are going to install. The Vforce kit comes with (4) 56g's. I used (2) 56 and (2) 54's with the best results because I had a GOOD pipe. I wish that Muzzy was out when I bought my Yoshi. I have alot of dyno expirience with bikes and have a good idea on what it takes to find the best pipe. I can't prove it at this time, but THAT IS the pipe to have. I have a Pro Circuit T-4 on my P700. A 2-1 collector is really important. But that is another topic.

 

I'd keep in mind that with the Dalton weights you are getting many, many different possible combinations for just the price of one set of weights & a couple packages of bushings.