Coolant lines to carbs...why do some people take them off?
#1
I see several people are taking off the small coolant hoses that run to the carbs. What are the advantages AND disadvantages to doing this. Please educate me. THANKS!!
#2
hey mark i have also wonderd why, so i hope we can get a good reply.
did you ever get over to the storage unit and get the scoops looked at for us????
thanks man,
did you ever get over to the storage unit and get the scoops looked at for us????
thanks man,
#3
I am not an expert on this, but I think the heated carbs are for winter riding, to stop carb icing in
certain conditions and to give you better throttle response in cold weather. It would be neat to put little
valves in the lines so you could turn them off in the summer. Unheated carbs will give a little more power.
#4
Thanks for the info!!
CRASHDOG, I apologize for not getting those measurements yet. I truly have not forgotten. This past week work has kept me from getting down to the storage unit but I WILL be down there today. I'll post the measurements tonight.
CRASHDOG, I apologize for not getting those measurements yet. I truly have not forgotten. This past week work has kept me from getting down to the storage unit but I WILL be down there today. I'll post the measurements tonight.
#6
Looks to me, its better to leave the coolant lines hooked up. There may be some lowering of power, on a very hot day, due to slightly warmer fuel( which is less dense), but the heater doesnt heat the float bowl, just the venturie. I would say the engineers at Kawasaki, probably figured in the positives and negatives, and designed a system with the least amount of negitive.
carb heater
Unless you live in the dry and hot desert, and raced, and needed every last drop of horsepower, Youd be better off leaving it stock. But seeing how you live in Penn. youd probably appreciate the cold weather drivability improvement of leaving it on.
carb heater
Unless you live in the dry and hot desert, and raced, and needed every last drop of horsepower, Youd be better off leaving it stock. But seeing how you live in Penn. youd probably appreciate the cold weather drivability improvement of leaving it on.
#7
I think hondabuster makes a good point. I read the article in his post and I'd have to agree that if you live in a climate where carb icing is likely, leave them on.
It makes me wonder though that with all of the heat the V-twin generates, that the heat from the engine would warm them sufficiently.
I've taken mine off because I do live in a very hot, low humidity climate. It's normally in the 90's on any summer day. I usually ride above 5000 ft. - 11000ft in elevation too. Riding at these elevations, my bike is running leaner jets with gas getting mixed with thinner air. The cool air/gas mixture helps cool the top of the piston more than people realize. In fact it's the only cooling mechanism for the top of the piston.
Mark
It makes me wonder though that with all of the heat the V-twin generates, that the heat from the engine would warm them sufficiently.
I've taken mine off because I do live in a very hot, low humidity climate. It's normally in the 90's on any summer day. I usually ride above 5000 ft. - 11000ft in elevation too. Riding at these elevations, my bike is running leaner jets with gas getting mixed with thinner air. The cool air/gas mixture helps cool the top of the piston more than people realize. In fact it's the only cooling mechanism for the top of the piston.
Mark
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#8
I drove for quite a few miles with mine removed and plugged. It was in the spring and I didn't notice a difference.
Most ATV's don't have the heaters. If you take it off, you will just be like them.
Markdf, other ATV carbs freeze in cold weather until the engine heats up. The 650/700 would just do the same thing. My brother's 400 starts easier in the cold that any aTV I have seen. But, the carb freezes up just like most every other ATV. Basically you have to hold the throttle when shifting because it won't idle. As soon as the engine is warm enough, then it will idle. My friend's griz does this. My 650 does not freeze but it isn't a big deal if it does.
Go ahead and take them off or put a valve in if you want.
If you Vforce guys are trying to squeeze every horsepower out that you can, you should take the hoses off and plug the lines. Cap the carb heater to keep dirt out too in case you every put it back.
More important that taking the heater off, you should be using Evans NPG in your cooling system to keep the engine cooler. If the engine is cool the intake air will be cooler.
You should also be using some kind of dual snorkle on the airbox (or whatever flows best for you), and maybe a 4 degree offset flywheel key, aftermarket exhaust, and springs. After that, go with port work. After that, big bore kits and cams.
I know most of you Vforce guys have done the exhaust thing and the intake stuff, but I think most of you are forgetting that you probably could use 4 more degrees of timing. I was told the Vforce CDI holds 28 degrees to the rev limit. Kawasaki said that 32 is optimal.
You guys should be messing with those offset keys in my oppinion.
Most ATV's don't have the heaters. If you take it off, you will just be like them.
Markdf, other ATV carbs freeze in cold weather until the engine heats up. The 650/700 would just do the same thing. My brother's 400 starts easier in the cold that any aTV I have seen. But, the carb freezes up just like most every other ATV. Basically you have to hold the throttle when shifting because it won't idle. As soon as the engine is warm enough, then it will idle. My friend's griz does this. My 650 does not freeze but it isn't a big deal if it does.
Go ahead and take them off or put a valve in if you want.
If you Vforce guys are trying to squeeze every horsepower out that you can, you should take the hoses off and plug the lines. Cap the carb heater to keep dirt out too in case you every put it back.
More important that taking the heater off, you should be using Evans NPG in your cooling system to keep the engine cooler. If the engine is cool the intake air will be cooler.
You should also be using some kind of dual snorkle on the airbox (or whatever flows best for you), and maybe a 4 degree offset flywheel key, aftermarket exhaust, and springs. After that, go with port work. After that, big bore kits and cams.
I know most of you Vforce guys have done the exhaust thing and the intake stuff, but I think most of you are forgetting that you probably could use 4 more degrees of timing. I was told the Vforce CDI holds 28 degrees to the rev limit. Kawasaki said that 32 is optimal.
You guys should be messing with those offset keys in my oppinion.
#9
hey nyroc thanks fo the details
if i wait for the day that the new module comes out want it do all the timeing degree stuff for me.
it will be just a simple plug in also.
i know what you all are thinkig, (if that day ever comes) lol
thanks, crash
if i wait for the day that the new module comes out want it do all the timeing degree stuff for me.
it will be just a simple plug in also.
i know what you all are thinkig, (if that day ever comes) lol
thanks, crash
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