What would happen if I run my Lakota sport without a battery? Since it has a pull start mechanism, I can start it without the the aid of the electrical starter. Will it affect the headlight and the brakelight? Since the ignition is CDI, will it be affected when the lights are on? I have done all of the other modifications needed to reduce the weight. The battery is at least 5-10 pounds and removing will further improve handling. Has anyone done this successfully?

 

I don't know what would happen if you completely remove the the battery but you could easily test it by simply disconnecting the battery. What I am planning on doing is going to my local battery shop (Battery Exchange) and seeing if I can find a smaller battery with the same voltage,ohm,watt readings and mount that under the seat between the carb and the rear shock. I have removed the entire air box system and put on a K&N clamp on filter so I have a ton of room under the seat now. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Normally, the lighting system is separate from the stator. Granted that the lakota starts with the use of the pull-cable, I am assuming the ignition is wired directly to the stator rather than the stator to the battery and then to the ignition. My only concern is running the stator without the battery. I do not know if it can damage it. I see no reason in carrying this battery in the track. It is just extra weight and it sits high on the frame. The battery weighs 11 pounds. I am trying to reach 410 pounds or below.

 

Sounds like you got the same goal as I do... Get it as light as possible. I am actually shooting for 390. I think in the short term (next couple months) I can hit the 410 mark. After that it I think it will take replacing some expensive parts like the shocks, swing-arm, and installing the 330 kit. Below is what I am planning on doing

465 -starting curb weight
-10 -extra stuff
-14 -rear wheels and tires
-10 -new DG Xcellerator exhaust system
-6 -guestimation of removal of air box system. Haven't weight it yet.
-10 -front wheels and tires. guestimation based on weight savings of rear wheels and tires.
-5 -battery modification mentioned above. Pulled this right out of the air but I am hoping to save this much.
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410 -end weight after cheap easy stuff. This is a real rough guess since I haven't weight the last 3 items above.
-20 -hoping to loose this much with maier race plastics, new shocks, swing-arm (if available), clutch kit, nerf bars (loose stock heelguards), 330 kit and possibley rear axle, A-arms, and handle bars.
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390 -end weight after all changes.

I realize 390 may not be possilbe but I will be happy with something between 390 - 400. Guess I will just have to weight and see.

 

Yeah, I pretty much have the same idea. I think all of us lakota owners doo. Kankak, where did you find the k&n clamp on and for how much?

 

One more thing, you guys may also want to look into getting the aluminum heel guards. I was able to find some for $128.00

 

Removal of the battery is my last weight savings process. After this, I will start improving the shocks. The suspension doesn't do very well in the tracks at high speed. The motor is capable of giving out more speed but the suspension cannot handle it. Works Shocks seem to be the best price for the Lakota.

 

I found the K&N clamp-on at my local MX shop. I just went to the parts counter told them I wanted a K&N clamp on for a Lakota Sport with a 2" carb and approximately 3" from bottom of gas tank to the center of carb. I kept shopping while they looked through half a dozen supplier books to find one that fits. They only found one and it is part number RC-2440. Fits perfect too. I have about 1 in space between filter and bottom of gas tank. The filter is about 5 inches in diameter and 3 inches thick and not tapered. This one is apparently for some Honda vehicle, so says the parts guy. Can't remember which one though. It cost me $50, kinda expensive I know but I think it was worth it. The pre-filter for it cost another $22. With the mods done so far I pull the front tires off the ground shifting into 2nd gear, and thats with me leaning forward a little.

Can someone brake down the other hop ups I've seen on this forum???
First off, what kind of improvement did you see with the 13T sprocket? Noticable increase in top end speed? Any loss in low end torque?
How about the K&G clutch kit? Does it engage 1st gear fast enough to pull a wheeling from a dead stop? I mean without holding the shift level up, reving the engine, then releasing the shift lever.
And last but not least, how is the mojave carb? Is it a really noticable different? Can you give me kinda before and after example?

mdyjeepgrl - You have any pictures of your Lakota with the meier race plastics. I want to get them but their web site doesn't have any pictures. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]

cgaluter - Where did you find the shocks for the lakota? I've been looking but apparently not in the correct place. Also have you found any aluminum swing arms for the Lakota?

 

A 13t Sprocket is the best $6.99 you will ever spend on the Lakota

A notice in top speed....not to much lacking in the low spots.....I actually still think 1st gear is way to low...but it seems the lakota is hard to get the jump with in races......thats why I rely on my top end...
My stock clutch has been holding out good for over a year now....No slippige and i tend to drop it now and then too!

Right now she's weighing about 410-400lbs......I took off pretty much anything and everything that is unscrewable and doesn't look useful.....lol

look at my pics.....ull see, no heal guards.....no mud flaps....no tool box.....everythings gone lol

Do a search on the fourm for "Lakota Weight Loss Program"
I tell what i took off....and about what it weighted...some may find it useful

I recently just raced a piped and jetted 250ex (no challenge) he thought he'd beat me....and he did off the line.....but I came up next to him in 3rd.......I put it into 4th and he was gone.......it was a long road soo put it into 5th so i could get done faster....i musta been almost 70ft ahead of him
but not bad for a little 250

~CHRIS~

 

I read "Lakota's Weight Loss Program" and looks like I removed the same items you did. Except the heal heards. I won't be taking mine off until I build my nerf bar/heel guard combo. I am going to build it myself, should be a fun little project. I've listed all the stuff I've removed. Let me know if there is anything else I missed that I should remove.

Starting from front of machine:
-rubber bumpers
-Handle bar weights (made no difference in handling or vibration)
-Airbox system including cap molded to bottom of hood (replaced with K&N clamp-on)
-mud flaps and all bolted on brackets
-tool box (put tool pouch in document holder)
-stock exhaust (replaced with DG stageIII Xcellerator full system)
-stock rear wheels and tires (replaced with Douglas Blue Label wheels and Kings tire Turbo padals. Will still run steel wheels for trail rides)
-chain/disc guard

Things to remove or replace in the next few months:
-front sproket (replace with 13T)
-battery (replace with a lighter battery and relocate under seat in front of rear shock)
-headlight
-stock hood (replace with maier smoothy or screened hood)
-rear grab bar (replace with aluminum one)
-handle bars (replace with aluminimum)
-stock front fenders (replace with maier race plastics)

Items to upgrade for weight loss and performance long time out:
-swing arm (replace with aluminum)
-rear shock (replace with something to handle landing jumps smoother)
-front shocks (replace with something absorb high speed bumps better)
-330 kit or 354 stroker kit (not sure what the stroker kit includes or how reliable it is)