KOD: I'm just about positive you would have taken that P700 if you had the dyna. It made enough difference in mine (all across the range) to indicate that you will beat him next time.

 

minimus...
the "knocking" noise you heard with that set up is badddddddddd....in a car its called detonation..and it could destroy a motor in only a few revolutions, in the worsst case scenario....what it is exactly is this....your air/fuel mixture is detonating to early...aka the "explosion" is happening while your piston is still on its way up....outcomes:
annoying noise....then damaged piston...then exploded piston/rod/crank/case....aka time for a new mickey dunlap motor...i have heard a few others saying they had the same results....it might be a wise move for you to tear the motor apart to check it all out 'cause the motor could be fine or you may have damaged something...just cause it"sounds all right" or isnt knocking now doesnt mean everything in there is all good....as a former mechanic...and builder of hopped up cars and motors i think better safe than sorry....just my 2cents

 

so if this is the case then I am going to order the 6* key and keep my dg3...

 

KOD, Nyroc,

Marylandatv is correct the keys are slighly under it is easier to say 4* or 6* as opposed to 2.9 or 4.2* as is with the keys. Diameter size of the crank has no bearing on degrees as you know. Why don't Kawi, Suzy, Yamy and most other brands " CALL IT AS IT IS " a 649 is not a 650, a 497 is not a 500, nor is 559 a 660. KOD, Nyroc do you tell your friends you have a 649 or a 650, do you say you have 4* key or a 2.9* key. Now Nyroc, you know what I am talking about.

KOD, you say you are not willing to compromise on tire weight and size. I must draw your attention to that very area, tire size and weight " rotational mass ". Rotational mass is very important with respect to a CVT clutch less weight, same OEM tire size will help immensly with drag times/total speed. You do well with what you have but it is still not a 700 (699?) with a Dyna cdi!

 

IMO- I think its also just part of the ATV world, You see it all the time. One Company will say our Exhaust will give you 8hp! when its really more like 4hp. Others will say Our Key, Cam, Module, Billet Aluminum Special Made this or that etc. is the BEST! But in some cases they are really the same and made my the same Company. Like ATV Tires a lot of people don't know that Carlisle owns ITP and they really are the same. Also Companies like Carlisle are buying up a lot of smaller companies all the time! The dayco belt people talk about online is owned my Carlisle and the Company is into everything from Cook-ware to Cheese Processing Equipment?? I think they even make the plugs we have to use it seems on so many of there tires??~LOL Hummm? Just kiddin,, kind of-lol. Sometimes quality goes out the window when making a FAT bottom line becomes a companies priority? I also think with Wheel setup, offset has a part to play? Ive run the 12/7 all around myself and always felt the 12/6-12/8 I run on my Douglas 190s and OMF beadlocks performed better then the 12/7's? Just this past weekend I ran for the first time my bias ply horns on the 190s saving almost 8lbs per wheel. I could feel the difference a bit and I kind of understand Rotational mass, But what about offset? when it comes to speed and handling? ~coop

www.MarylandATV.com
Prairie 700
Team Green Plastic
Progressive Springs
OMF Beadlocks
Maxxis Big Horns
Dyna CDI
EPI Pink Spring/RED
Twin Air Filter
HMF Penland Exhaust
exhaust wrap
>
Vcams
4* key
on the way!
Oh and a Bunch of other Toyz

 

alltoys, I used to call it a 650, cuz that is what kawasaki called it. I understan the reasoning behind rounding up from 697 to 700 on a motor. I don't get it with degree keys.

Now I call my prairie a 673, since other ATV companies round theirs up by 40ccs or so.

I guess I thought when you went to the store and got a 2" bolt, it was really 2" long. Same thing with degrees keys. I never expected them to give you so much less than they say.

 

You know come to think of it, its not just the ATV world!

When you go to Home depot and buy a 2x4 even those
you think it is what its called? Its really a 1 1/2 x 3 1/4 ?

Hummm?-LOL[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img] I wonder what else we can uncover??
~coop

www.MarylandATV.com
Prairie 700
Team Green Plastic
Progressive Springs
OMF Beadlocks
Maxxis Big Horns
Dyna CDI
EPI Pink Spring/RED
Twin Air Filter
HMF Penland Exhaust
exhaust wrap
>
Vcams
4* key
on the way!
Oh and a Bunch of other Toyz

 

alltoys, you probably know a lot about tires and rotational mass. Do you think I could have stayed even at 350' if I had stock tires and wheels? Looking back on it, Im thinking I could have. I believe I would have jumped out to a bigger lead at 200-250' and that would have carried me to 350' even with him. I also believe the P700 would have eventually passed me at say 400 -450'

 

KOD,

For all the drags I go I use the OEM rims they are the lightest plus the OME tires are very light as well they give the best times if can get them to hook up. When I remachine my clutch the belt rides up further on the sheaves this helps to put load on the motor/drive train which reduces wheel spin the less weight the motor has to move up to 4000 rpm where torque is basically maxed out then timing will help to push the quad faster down the track. I have tried street tires and the best combo at least on pavement was the OEM tires that came with the quad. On dirt I used the original Vampire tires, low tred pattern with lots of V treds I think they are 2 ply or 4 ply not to much on the plys but good for less weight. Less weight means less rotational mass. I think Newbeatle posted that he removed the pull start with the metal basket on the left side. It is only 1# basically but it does help. For example I run 27 in Outlaws and my friend runs 27 in 589's his tire/rim combo is one# difference in weight but his quad is much easier to move. I installed his tires on my quad and I could get another 10 mph on top end just by changing tires. In the mudd of course Outlaws are very hard to beat. I have had my OEM tires up to 80 mph where they really balloon out on the top after 80 they are dangerous trust me.

basically if you can keep the same tire size but keep it low in weight then you will attain higher speeds in the 300 - 350 foot range. If you can find someone with OEM tires/rims install them you will see a definite difference.

 

KOD, you will be narrower if you do it.

Also, Alltoys, you forgor the added weight and wind drag of all those stickers on his 650. That has to be the biggest factor.