Hey all. I have been doing alot of reading up on all of the different bikes and decided to go with the Brute Force for me and the Prarie 360 for the wife. Are there any break-in procedures you all would recommend or should I just follow the factory guidelines. Thanks for any help you can give.

 

Ride like you would normally. Just don't keep if pegged full throttle extended periods, drive long periods at same rpm, submerge it over air intake/racks, or drag race it continually for first 10 hours. Momentary full throttle bursts are encouraged.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] to keep those pesky little 650s at bay or keep up[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

Do not forget to change your oil at 10 hours. On the initial break in there are lots of metal pieces being worn together and an oil change is absolutely necessary at 10 hours.

 

The idea is to vary the rpms up and down the range from flat out to idle, so if you like power on trails, sometimes you have to engine brake and sometimes you let it out. I would recommend breaking it in on trails rather than, say, a gravel road. See what top end is while you're at it. Me and my dealer's 2 cents.

 

read the following article, I don't agree with it 100%, but pretty close when breaking in 4 strokes:

break-in secrets

 

Thanks for all of the info on the break-in guys, but how long should the typical break-in take? Should it be ten miles, or twenty miles...? Thanks again.

 

10 Hours & Oil change, LET HER RIPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP!![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

TuffEnuff

 

On an ATV, I would say the first 10 hours of riding. Don't run constant rpm's and do not run near redline....as it will get the motor hot...you want it warm, but not overly hot.

Constant changing of rpm's is required. In order to seat the rings, more compression is required to for the rings in to the wall of the cyclinder. The old days (an manufacturers manuals) say not to go above a low rpm,,,,,well this was when tolerances were not close like they are now and parts of the machine, like bearings, etc. needed to loosen up....tolerances are alot closer now and don't need that.

I would change the oil and filter in the first 3-5 hours or 100 miles, whichever comes first. There is one thing in the article that I gave a link that I don't believe, he says to let it idle until it is completely warm. I would actually start right away after running and keep low rpm's and let it warm up....do not rev it while warming up....but don't let it idle.

I broke in my machine by changing the oil and filter at 5 hours and then again at 10 hours. Next change is 600 miles.

 

Do what you want but here is what I did.
#1 Start quad up and rode slowly until engine was at operating temp.
#2 Did about 15 to 20 wide open throttle runs.
#3 Took it for a nice ride.

My fan almost NEVER comes on. The shop got the jetting right from the start and that helps a lot. I will post my leak-down figures when I get a chance. They will be VERY low for a factory motor, I can guarentee that.

New moly rings will come in very quickly, if you do it right. One 10 minute race did it for me.

 

Pretty close to what I would do....run it slow until it warms up, wide open runs are okay, just as long as you don't go into redline, take a nice 'hard' ride afterwards.....

The problem I have is that the new Polaris machines come from the factory with full synthetic oil in them....I didn't change mine out, but next time I'm draining the oil and putting in regular oil for the break-in, then swap back to synthetic....I've got 600 miles so far on my '05 700 EFI, runs great....I've never had motor problems on all the quads I've owned....had a honda with the pushbutton shifter that was constantly flaky, but other than that, all my machines have been great....