You may try to keep an eye out for used differential on e-bay. I have seen them on there for a fraction of the cost. And like someone else on here said do the oil change yourself so you know how much is in there and what is in there. 3 local dealers told me 3 different answers. I used 10W-40 Amsoil in my front end.

 

Thanks for the tips Gus 13.

 

You may want to check this unit out.
Differential
If it is true to only needing bearings that is cheap and easy. I would tie off with that person to verify exactly the condition and what it needs and maybe better pictures. Maybe you can take yours and this one and make one?

 

Reading the seller's description makes me to think that there is not much usable parts left for the original poster because the seller ran the gear box without the oil. The spider gears and the stationary shaft are typically toasted in such case. Maybe you can salvage out some of the clutch plates which you don't need.

 

I have worked on many Jeeps, custom built rock buggies, etc and for Dana 60, 44, or Ford 9" (see my pics link) and it wasnt that much in parts. Sounds expensive to me, but I havent worked on 4 wheeler diffs yet, but I cant imagine them to be more expensive than 1 ton parts. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img] Maybe you can look at it and see exactly what is bad and replace those worn/broken parts yourself.

At this time this is the only one I can find. I have seen beter ones for less. Just depends how fast you want to be up and running. I'll keep my eyes open.
Differential link

 

Just curious...when changing the front diff on a BF 750, is it normal to have a slight glitter look on a newer machine. (like first change or two) I just looked at this posting for the first time, and noticed comments regarding front diff lube having metal in it. I remember my first change had slight metalic haze, I asked a couple people at the time and they said it was normal break-in from the plates.

I have used Amsoil 10w40 for the first couple of changes, but it did seem to be underfilled from the factory. Proababy just being paranoid, but any thoughts? Sounds like a bunch of front diff experts on this posting!

 

No real surprise but Suzuki gunned me down just because of the time factor. I guess I see their point, where do you draw the line. The dealer was not anymore helpful. The independent who is working on it is going to discount as much as he can because he definetly feels it is manufacturers defect.
His feeling is it only has 270 miles and the problem is not lack of lubrication or heat like Suzuki says. It almost cost me $5 a mile to drive this thing.

 

Sorry to hear they wont fix it for you. Not sure how much you said it would cost, but here is a whole setup
Front diff link Good luck.