I bought it! $350 + $20 in gas at least, lol. It dont look too bad. Its kinda obvious it hasn't been run in a while, but it has compression. I'll post some pics later. Thanks again for all the help!

 

How do you get the seat off????? I'm about to hook hydraulics to it and rip it off![img]i/expressions/devil.gif[/img] I pry n pry from all angles n cant see anymore screws. There were 4 in the back that was already off. It looks like it should just slide backwards, but I cant get it to do it. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img]

 

Hey bmax sounds like we have similar engine setups. U still using the stock carb? Also can you give me the p/n of the exhaust you are using? how do you like it compared to others you may have tried. Seems the national park doesn't want to let me in anymore with the one I have.

 

There are 2 nuts underneath the seat towards middle of the seat and four nuts at the back of the seat BTW if you have to put rings in it and the crank is in good cond. think about contacting greg at cycleworksracing.net he has an awesome 335 big bore kit that gives a little over 11:1 comp. You can also get your cam reground if you want. Also if you know what your doing the ex. port on that machine is undersized for performance purposes particularily directly under the valve head. The one nice thing about that engine is that the crank is about as heavy as a railroad car axle so if it hasn't been too abused it should handle the extra power pretty well. With respect to the carb I still have a stock carb but put a dynojet kit in it. It's not real hard to work on but the slide diaphram is a pricy item if it needs replaced. As for a perf exhaust I know DG has been a real pain to deal with although the pipe does work pretty well with the setup.

 

Thanks Thundercat! I ended up taking the whole plastic off and the seat came with it still bolted on with those 2 bolts you mentioned. Definitely weird to me. Also, the gas tank did the same thing! It was a bit confusing, but I got it all apart. The carb was full of green goo from the gas sitting there so long I guess. The pilot was blocked totally and I had to use a piece of wire to clear it. 100 psi of air and brake cleaner didn't budge that clog! Anyway, carb is all clean now, but I still hate the idea of cv carbs. They seem picky about minor changes to the airbox or filter (and the lakota has a very complicated air intake system... wow! I filled a decent sized box with just airbox stuff!). And the needle in the carb has no clip or slots for adjustment either. This Keihin is not winning me over from mikuni... I can tell ya that! But, I will see if it works and if it does that's good enough. If not, I'm not even fooling with jets or anything,,, just slap a simple round slide on there.

I did a compression test with the carb OFF and a big car battery and after checking that the valves have decent lash.... It was about 130psi. Is that good for a 8.6:1??? My bayou has 190psi and my 230 quadsport has 200psi (with the carbs on with air filter and throttle open). But they have more compression.

I peered inside at the cam lobes,,, they looked shiney new. I checked the cam chain tension,,,, it was tight. I loosened the cam chain and tried my best to find any wiggle in the cam,,,, could find any at all. The oil looked almost new, but not quite,,, just in good condition. The oil filter was black and probably hadn't been changed in yrs. The case was full of oil,,, a lot of oil,,, more than I was expecting. I dont think it was over filled, but it sure wasnt low! The spark plug looked kinda new too. No trace of burnt oil. Maybe just a spec of carbon at the edge.

I'm going to try and get it running tonight. I got a new filter... probably drain the old gas out and see if it even smokes at all. Who knows... may not have to do anything to it. As long as you guys are ok with the 130psi compression, I haven't seen a reason to tear it down yet.

Oh, yeah, the exhaust is always the problem on any engine. I dont know why they do that. The valve is smaller, the port is screwed, etc... That's why I always insist on a longer duration cam for the exhaust than for the intake. I've ported a few heads in my time, but have never touched the intake side (unless just to shine it up).

 

Pulling the recoil starter 5 times wshould give you 185 psi comp with a stock lakota. The Electric start should be 179 according to the service manual. That's new cond. Thi min in my book is 119 psi but to be honest with you that seems a little low. Also if you are going to tear into it I would rec. tgetting the service manual it's 40 bucks well spent. Also on my machine I got rid of the stock airbox and just put a KN with an outerwears on it and it works fine. I can't say it really helped or hurt perf (didn't do back to back tests) but I don't ride in a lot of water and quite frankly it takes up a lot of room.

 

Ya, the airbox, er, airboxes,,, are goofy. I tried n tried to get it started last night.... It would bump every now n then, but never started. Has fat blue spark too. The carb is junk. I tried with the airbox, w/o the box, hand over the carb, pilot screw in and out, choke on and off, stating fluid,,,, till the starter was too hot and I gave up. I may take a mikuni off one of my other rides just to see if it starts.

I ordered the clymer manual last night. Its good enough for my bayou, hopefully it will be good enough for the lakota too.

 

I got it running with the carb from my quadsport. It smokes like a tar wagon! It has power though. I did a burnout in 3rd gear while holding the front brake. I have a question though.... Is it supposed to rev out a lot before it starts moving or do I have a bad primary clutch? Its almost like a car with a high stall converter in it.

 

mine hits in almost instantly and snaps the front off the ground if you lay on it in 2nd

 

I can rev it a little up n down before it grabs. Like somebody made the centripital weights lighter so it has to rev out more to grab. But when it does grab it seems to hold well. Somehow, I need to decide if this is normal or not while I have the engine apart.