bayou 220
#1
This is probably a simple issue, but here goes. Quad is a 1993 220 been running rough for a while now. pretty much would only run if fully choked. so i pulled the carb and cleaned it..cleaned it good.
NOW it will only crank if I pull the air filter and cover the intake with my hand. It will idle that way..i can pop my hand off and let it rev but it dies right back down. SO, its not getting nearly enough gas to how much air its sucking. I see what i figure to be the fuel/air screw on the bottom side of the card right by the motor. I have tried everything from 2 1/2 turns out, to all the way in, to all the way about to fall out...dont seem to change much. I am sure its jetted right because my wife has had it since she was 15 and its ran good for all those years.
any ideas?
NOW it will only crank if I pull the air filter and cover the intake with my hand. It will idle that way..i can pop my hand off and let it rev but it dies right back down. SO, its not getting nearly enough gas to how much air its sucking. I see what i figure to be the fuel/air screw on the bottom side of the card right by the motor. I have tried everything from 2 1/2 turns out, to all the way in, to all the way about to fall out...dont seem to change much. I am sure its jetted right because my wife has had it since she was 15 and its ran good for all those years.
any ideas?
#4
Carbs are pretty durable if the fuel is fresh and both fuel and air are properly filtered. The needle valve should stop flow when gently seated (fully clockwise). Backing the screw out (Counterclockwise) about 1.5 to 2 turns is a good starting point. In addition, considering the age of the quad, you may want to buy and overhaul kit and carefully flush out the carb to clear any sediment and debris. Older carbs, and the engine intake can dry out and crack, allowing air seepage. That might cause introduction of too much air, thus demanding more choke. Good luck with your project.... Jim
#5
Deffinately get a kit! run the mixture screw in all the way back it out 2 turns. Check your flange that the rubber carb boot attaches too. Mine was loose where it bolts to the head and created a hell of a leak! When you get a kit blow EVERY SINGLE orfice out on the carb make absolute sure that carb cleaner will go THROUGH every circuit.
#6
I am going to order a kit...and check those rubber boots tomorrow...I bet the boots are worn and rotted. inside the card wasnt too bad when i cleaned it ( boiled it, blew air and wire through everything), but the kits are cheap..I am taking the advice.
thanks alot.
Oh since my post i compression checked and got about 115, I figuring that low, but the thing should still run pretty good.
thanks alot.
Oh since my post i compression checked and got about 115, I figuring that low, but the thing should still run pretty good.
#7
what I have learned....when cleaning the carb,removed all parts from jets take notes as to how to put them back in,I used a small plastic bottle with a small tip( those little project bottles, I think you can get them at heibor freight) filled with mineral spirits..hold it tight over the inake of jets (float bowl area)and squeeze..while holding fingers on others to block openings)(with idle needle and main needle removed,..it should come out these jets in thottle body,...do it several times...it should also come out choke jet whent cleaning that input it should also come out air input ports on carb intake side...remember the carb works on a vaccuum principle provide by engine,so when gas is being used thru the idle jet it needs some air to mix with...that is the purpose of the small jet openings on the air intake side of the carb....you should not see gas coming out of these(during normal operation) they are for air to come in
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