Newbie here, but like my old jeep, the "community" always has better info for me!!! Thanks in advance for all the help. I recently bought a 2000 Kawasaki Prairie 300 that only had about 1300 miles on it for pretty cheap. After putting 100 or so miles on it, the clutch started making noise (the guy I bought it from used it to push snow mostly so no surprise the clutch was making noise!) I replaced the primary clutch with a Comet 103 HPQ and a new Gates belt while I was in there. Ran like a scalded-a_ _'ed ape for a about 50 miles and then now I hear belt slap and no torque on the start and just feels "doggy" all the way through the throttle. My question is two fold: 1. is there an adjustment that can be made to tighten up the belt? Or. 2. With the different clutch is there different pitched belts that would be a better fit for the new clutch? Would either of these things be the issue or am I looking for something else? Thanks again!

 

I owned the same machine for 16yrs and it was bullitproof. Must use factory belts, they are expensive but made of Kevlar and hold up. Plowing makes no difference, I plowed for 16yrs with no issue. Not sure about your replacement clutch though. Belt deflection is adjustable with shims, see factory manual for instructions.

 

Thanks for the tips. I assume to get rid of the belt deflection you have to be sure that the primary and driven clutches are in line with each other so the belt pulls straight? Shim one in and one out to get them straight? Do they make special shims or can you use washers or something similar? This machine seems to be about as bulletproof as they come. I have been super happy with it that is why I want to make it run like it should instead of just shipping it off to the next guy!!

 

They made a shim kit, not only to align but to also set spacing of sheaves to adjust belt deflection.

 

I have a 2000 400 prairie which I put a comet clutch on. I bought a carlisle belt from oreillys.

I had to shim the secondary to get proper deflection. It was many years ago but I didnt have the correct thickness of shim and I believe my machine shop buddy made a shim by cutting the end off of a pipe which was approx the same size as the factory shim. I know I didnt buy a shim.

It has worked fine and was relatively easy to take the secondary clutch apart and install the shim.

 

I truly appreciate the help and info from all of you. I tore everything all back apart and was ready to begin the secondary tear down so that I could take a shim or two out. A quick glance at the secondary showed that it was stuck wide open and there was no movement of the sheave so it was almost impossible to get the retainer clip off the shaft. Come to find out, after some colorful language and some thrown tools, I found that one of the screws that holds the nylon bushings, or whatever they are called, that the center portion of the torque converter rides on had broken and and allowed the bushing to come loose. Between the bushing and the broken screw causing carnage and finally getting wedged in the torque converter, it was stuck open and was the cause of the whole issue. Put it all back together and she runs line a top again!

Thanks again for all of the help. I know where to go the next time the ol' girl decides to throw me a curve ball!

 

Glad you have it sorted out, now if we could just ride again...

 

Were you able to clean up and use your secondary or did you have to buy a different one?

 

I was able to use a file and clean up the edges and the sides of the torque converter center section and it seems to be running just right. I was worried that it may have taken chewed up the little nylon bushing too much but it seems like it is good to go.

 

I just put a comet clutch on my prairie 300 and engages as soon as I put it in gear. What is causing this?