It ran great. Really ripped. I think I got it dialed in as well as can be engine-wise. I'm gonna try a bit richer to see what happens but I think I'm about as close as can be.

I just switched to a Power pros pipe/sil. and a K&N over a UNI, put a CGL needle in over the stock one and lowered the tension on my Vforce reed valve for better lowend. The quad already had a 14/46 sprocket set and retarded timing on the ignition...lowend mods.

Problem: I don't feel too confident when I nail the berms. If I gas it too much, it feels like the backend swings around too fast so I have to avoid a semi spinout. I don't gas it enough and it feels tippy.

I know the quad has a narrow wheel base and I'm not a Class A rider but I'm wondering if anyone has had this same problem. Sure, I could spend some more money on extended a-arms and axle but I'm tired of high price fixes and would love to hear some suggestions from other T4 owners. I'm gonna offset the rims for a wider stance and I still have my smaller 21x7x10 fast trekkers to put on (I got taller, curved maxxis front pros on now). That might do it. My friend suggested going back to the stock 13/39 sprockets to ease off on the lowend a bit.

Ideas?? thanks....

 

Hay, don't sweat all the gearing and mods and all the bull. In this forum we talk about building horse power, widening out quads, tire selections so on and so forth. As you are finding out the most rippingest quad has it's troubles too.

I have mentioned so many times about how to build your quad to you, your needs and riding style.

First off, leave every thing the way it is, this is a absolute must. When ever you establish a style shifting railing out a burm and jumping become second nature. When you make like minor gear changes or jetting changes it throws you way off.

Most poeple will tell you to set your gearing to the track. Meaning set it so you pin 4th in the straits. Well I don't realy agree to much with that because we aren't pro's. But set it how you ride. Abviously your a bottom to mid rider (me too) thier is nothing wrong with that, this is you and your style.

hitting a burm is done in many fations, the wider quads try to come in hard and inside. They do thier braking when they enter the turn up to the apex and then hit heavy on the gas and rail the burm high exiting. The narrower or slower quads try to use the least braking as possible and rail the hole burm, entering wide and exiting wide.

In your case I would try both but try this, it's a graet way to take a burm on a quad like yours. coming down the straight you will be a gear high for the turn at high speeds. Try to either use your engine braek or go further in and just use 2 fingers on the front only. Go high coming in, rail the burm untill rite past the apex, then feather the clutch a bit (remember your still a gear high from coming down the straight)keeping on the gas and duck down inside on the exit. When ducking down try to get the quad as straight as possible running inside on the soft stuff and then ending up on the line the outside guys use about 30 feet or so past the turn. This will help.

On tighter 180 degrees type turns do the same but rite before ducking down inside hit the rear braeks to lock them up to start the slide at the same time pull the clutch all the way in and rev the motor like drag racing. When locking the rear gets you almost turned to take the inside line exiting drop the clutch and hold it wide open.

The name of the game is momentum. As much momentum you can carry threw the turn the faster you will be exiting.

For a bottom to mid range rider going in high and exiting inside is the best way. Just keep practicing and only make changes that you feel by riding it will help your style. Not what you read here or poeple say may work, just get out there and you will improve evry day.

The key to it all is get straight as you can before nailing the gas again, or you will as you find out spin. Or if you go in to hot you tend to stay pretty close to engine braking and start getting kinda tippy.

Woops are the same get as straight as you can, soon you'll be doubling them.

The set up before the jump, woop, or burm is the most important GET STRAIGHT before just pinning it.

 

wow. that's a alot of info for making a turn! hahaha. so you don't agree that this whole process would be a lot easier with a little less wheel spinnin' lowend like my friend suggests? The turns I'm talking about are high U turn burms.

 

You can change to any gearing. My point is keep it constant. Moving from a .304 gear ratio to a .333 is a big change. Throw the stock one on there, you won't have to shift as much, but the way you rail out a turn won't change.

Just a couple suggestions. I've been racing about 28 years now, you just have to excuse me. I'm what they call having the fever pretty bad. Just poeple mention racing and that, I just get a little excited still, after all these years.