Hello to all, I am a newbe to this sport. I have a
2000 Prairie 300 4x4 and want to change the oil. I live in Maine and I wonder if it is to cold for 20/50w? Is Castorl OK or do I need motorcycle oil? Also can I buy a filter at the autoparts store that is right for my atv or do I have to buy Kaw filter. And how about the wrench size,or do you take them off by hand. Basicly I need help on my 1st oil change. Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks

 

I know this sounds crazy but since that bike is brand new I would take it to the dealer and let them change it. The main reason is because they recommend that you let someone look it over to make sure that everything is still "tight" I own a 2000 Mojave and the dealer charged me $20 for the oil change and look over. Well worth it because I don't know that bike as well as they do.
Hope this helps,

Depakote
'00 Mojave

 

I live in the warm climate of southeast Texas and would never consider using 20W-50 oil. Please allow me to explain why.

When you buy an oil with a wide viscosity range like 20W-50 or 10W-40, what you get is a higher percentage of non-lubricating additives than you would with say, 10W-30 oil. I would recommend 10W-30 to just about anyone no matter what they drive or where they drive it. However, I do agree with the benefits of using synthetic oils in areas of extreme cold. How extreme would be a question for someone else.

Yet I also agree with those who say you shouldn't use synthetic oil in a new engine. Synthetic oils perform so well in fact that they inhibit the "bedding" of rotational surfaces of an engine's internal components, a process that is critical during the normal break-in period.

I prefer to draw the line somewhere in between by using the synthetic blend of Valvoline in both my Kawasaki and Honda ATV's. However, I still use conventional Valvoline oil in both of my automobiles. I have been told that Castrol is one of the worst oils in producing a varnish buildup.

As for filters, spark plugs and the like. Buy an issue of Dirt Wheels or some other ATV magazine and review the ads from numerous suppliers who will sell you OEM parts at significant savings from what you will pay the dealer.

Good luck.

 

I would stick to oils designed for
motorcycles or extreme duty (ie, diesel).
Myself I use Shell Rotella-T in 15w-40 in
my Pairie 300 and my Honda ATC 200 BigRed.
Oils designed for automotive gasoline engines
do not have the proper additives for air
cooled engines.

 

THANKS FOR THE REPLIES. I WENT TO THE DEALER GOT A KAW FILTER AND HONDA 10/40 OIL. I cost me $22. Funny thing it took a little over 3 Quarts to get the oil to come to the dip stick when screwed in & the manual said it would take 2.7 qt. I wonder why?

 

I think the discrepancy between your manual & the actual amount of oil you had to add was that the manual may have quoted just an oil change . The filter change will require slightly more.Also, my Yamaha always takes more oil with or without a filter change that the manual says.
I have used either Pennzoil or Quaker State in both my Warrior & Suzuki KQ for 3 & 4 yrs respectively, with out any problems whatsoever, & the Warrior especially, is ridden quite hard every weekend.You might try one of the national auto parts chain stores for a comparable filter, altho 2000 models are sometimes not listed in their cross reference manuals till later in the year.
Just some more thoughts to ponder.

 

I Would consider that to be 2.7 liters 1 liter is more than 1 quart. Good choice on going to your dealer,pay a little more or a lot later. words to live by ,consider this , air filter prep is the key to keeping the dirt out of your engine. long live your kawie