NYROC,

During the "field circumcision", I actually cut the wire approx. 2" above the 2-Pin connector, leaving the belt detection switch, wire and plug untouched. I stashed the "male" plug that I cut off in my pack for future re-attachment, stripped the wires, and at the appropriate time during the reset procedure, simply twisted them together and taped them up. I also taped the end of the plug coming from the switch to keep it from getting muddy and to keep it from dangling.

Just last night I removed the last remaining shim from my driven pully to tighten up the belt to the minimum deflection spec. I reset the switch to the "on" position but decided to leave the switch disabled for the time being until I am sure that it won't be a problem. From time to time I will be checking it for continuity with a multimeter just to see if it has tripped.

PARTSMAN2,

How 'bout I give your a$$ a tow sometime?

 

Masterblaster, did you give me some aluminum wheel straightening advice a long time ago? Someone did, and I forgot how hot I had to get the wheel before attempting to bend it.

I have many slightly bent wheels that I want to bend back to a more useable position to give to an ATV rider that is down on his luck. Trx 450 is giving me his half worn out tires so I can donate them too. I'm underemployed now, and can't afford to donate new stuff.

 

I think I'll cut a one inch hole in the belt cover and glue a piece of Lexan over it for a window. That way I can check the belt if a belt fault occurs. If the belt is good I'll break out the set of reset instructions and jumper wire that I'm NOW going to start carrying in the tool box and perform the reset.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Nyroc, aluminum has a tendency to work harden, which means the more you hammer it, the harder it gets. If you keep beating on it to get it back into shape, it gets harder, and then it cracks. To heat up your rim, use an oxy-acetylene torch. Turn on just the acetylene and start the torch. Wave it over the rim in the area you want to heat up. The rim will go black (it's just carbon). Start the torch again and using a neutral frame, heat up the rim in the area you want to straighten. As the rim heats up, the black stuff(carbon) will start to disappear. When the carbon burns off, that's the time to start beatin!! The problem with heating aluminum without using this method is that aluminum never shows you how hot it is until it's too late. With this procedure, I believe the carbon burns off at around 500 degrees fahrenheit, which is right on the money for working aluminum.

 

I'm thinkin about making a rim straightener fixture (that spins, sortof) that can fit in the oven to heat it up, then I'll put it on the ground and put a wood block on it and beat it.

I don't cook, and I can get the poisonous fumes from the paint out with a fan and duct.

I'm still trying to decide if that is a dumb idea or not. Hmm, maybe I'll stick to the torch.