ok heres the stroy.......

i went riding this past weekend it was around 20 degrees outside. she started up fine and went for a little warm up ride then down to my grandparents to get his p400 for my dad. i left it sit outside for no more than 20 or so min. while i got his 400 out warmed it up and took it for a little ride. i brought it back and filled it up then went to start my machine up to get it out of the wind so i can fill it up to, it started like it was DEAD cold so i figured it was becuase it was sittin in the wind for awhile so i let it pass. went for a 2 1/2-3 hour ride, came back, set it outside and went in to get warmed up for about 30min. i went out to start it and again it was DEAD cold. my grandpa's 400 never does this, his started w/o any trouble and no choke after this. I think ill try to solve it by upping the idle a little and adjust the air mixture in the carbs.

if any one can give me any insight on what you think is goin on will be very apperciated it wouldnt hurt either if some one can let me in on the secret of adjusting the mixture to.....

 

Mine starts piece of cake, whether it sat a month and I drag it out in 0 degree weather, or start it 5 minutes after I turned it off.

Here are some tidbits:

1. Adjusting the air screws should help you. Richer for cold weather.
2. The needle are a little lean on a lot of 650's. Read about adjusting the stock ones in this forum (using washers) or use a dynojet kit.
3. Many 650's that run crappily at idle just need a valve adjustment.
4. The little plastic bowl full of green liquid under the carbs on the right is a coolant strainer. The coolant that goes through the strainer heats the carbs and helps our 650's run in cold. Make sure this strainer is clean by removing the clamp on the big end, pull hose off big end, remove white plastic strainer thingy and clean it.

 

nyroc, did you have to adjust your jets? i figure if your from rochester your about the same altitude as me if you did what settings worked for you?

 

nyroc

I just rejetted my 650 with 142f and 145r...have the snorkel, twin air filter and going to do your exhaust mod shortly. Is the needle adjustment a must. She was real sluggish starting in the cold before i rejetted and now she starts right up...had it out in the road for a pass or two (ok wheelied it) and she ran alright...seems to have a little louder growl since i installed the new jets believe it or not .

On another note...how can you tell if you need a valve adjustment...how hard is it to adjust the valves...dealer (dont have much confidence in dealers around here) told me that the prairie should get its valves adjusted at 500 miles or sooner and i have 800 and havent done it...can you tell yet i am not mechanically inclined. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

Nightrider, yes I had to adjust my jets. I currently use 142f and 145r kehin jets, with a dynojet needle on the 5th notch. Runs perfect.

Bosox, I used to live in ogden, near the divide (nasty, windy, winding, steep road that is closed in the winter). I never liked those Ogden area dealers anyway. Does Vescos do Kawasaki? Dash, or another one of you Utahns may know of a good dealer. The needle adjustment is one of the most important things, IMO. You can adjust the stock one by putting washers on it so that it does not go into the bore as far, about 2 teeny washers thick should do the trick.

It actually sux a bit to adjust the valves on the front head (exhaust). I recommend being seriously prepared to do the job. Take the plastic off the front. Get the really small feeler gages or get what you need to use a dial inidcator to do it. I think it is pretty easy if you have the right feeler gage set or a dial indicator. If you have the wrong feeler gage, it will not only suck to try to do it, but you may do it wrong and make it run bad.

I don't mean to scare you into not doing it, I just mean to scare you into making sure you have the right feeler gage or dial indicator.

 

Vesco's was bought out by some company...they seem less good ole boy and more we are here to make money.

Anyway, based off the response I should be looking into a valve adjustment...so the dealer was right about the 500 miles should have one done. From what little I rode it I like the jets that are in it now...cant wait to get it out this weekend. Will have to take a look at the needles...should have had it done when i did the jets...my bag for not researching the project all the way. Will probably have to let a dealer adjust the valves it sounds like. Trying to get some progressive springs from them...dealer i spoke to said they were still being developed and should be about in production...said i should be able to order them in 4-8 weeks. I didnt even go into the fact that people on this forum have already installed them on their machines...just walked out and got online to check out highlifter...dont like their site as the prairie springs were hard to locate on the site.

I live just north of the weber canyon...by the hospital on top of washing blvd...south ogden area. What took you to New York...job or wife. Did you ride when you lived out here and if so where. Like i have said before...appreciate you sharing your insight...thanks

 

Progressive has them. Their website isn't very good, but the springs are.

I moved to NY to get a job. I sorta like it here and have more friend here now, so I am gonna stay for a while even though the taxes are high.

My bro works at that hospital as a nuclear rad tech or something. My parents live a few blocks east of there near emerald hills. I rode an LT500R when I lived there for a while, but sold it because my friends would almost never go riding with me.

Here, I at least get a ride once a month.

 

bosox,
about the valves..this is what I found out when I did them..it may be helpful..valve adjust thread..personal experience

now as far as the shimming of needles, what works on mikuni bds 28's are #4 washers, or dynojet shims, about 20 cents each, some folks take a dremel tool & cut a new notch in them(needles) & put the clip on it, or you can use suzuki carb shims, they are about 2 bux each, but they are milled .020, not stamped.. if you are using cheap washers for shims, make sure that they are the same thickness.. rule of thumb for needle shimming.. 0.040 is about a clip position, most needles can be shimmed about 0.060 without problems.. I can try to find the suzuki part #s, or the dimensions for radio shack washers if you want, they will be listed in the International Star Riders forum, as we do this a bit..I have seen some folks use a small o ring as well., but I prefer the washers..or 'zuki shims..

my p 650 has more hours than miles on it..so I went though it sooner..

 

well we got a day off of school today so i think ill fool around with it, ill post back later to tell you guys how it went

 

I hope you have a heater and an enclosed garage. It looks completely nasty outside here, lockport isn't that far from here.