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teacte 4

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Old 04-21-2000, 02:45 PM
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i own a 1988 tecate 250 and it had its problems, which i fixed, but it still leaks oil. i cant seem to find where it is coming from. i think it could be that i over filled the oil or it could be the o ring and dust seal near the front sprocket. i was also wondering if anyone could tell me some info on the tecates. mine is really nice it has an FMF pipe and silencer, boyesen rad valve and power reeds, and a wider axle. i would like to race it and was wondering if anyone could tell me if they are a good racing quad.
 
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Old 04-23-2000, 12:23 PM
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As I've mentioned in other posts I'm a veteran when it comes to Kawasaki bikes. I've owned my Tecate for about 3 years now (an 87 Tecate 4). I was told the bike had undergone some major modifications in regards to the motor / exhaust system. I am completely unaware what was done to the bike, but let me say this. My friend (who owns a 250r 3-wheeler) which to some is considered the fastest atv out there will get blown away by my Tecate from a dead start or rolling up until 5th gear for me. Let me also mention I weigh almost 100lbs heavier than my friend and my bike is geared considerably higher (top speed) with the largest ratio available [15 tooth front - 39 tooth rear].

I'm about to change the front sprocket down to a 13 which will make a world of difference and actually utilize 6th gear instead of use it as an overdrive!

The bike handles jumps very well, is balance nicely, and hauls. If you're looking to "seriously" race the bike then check out www.rageperformance.com they sell a big bore kit for the tecate which will pump the displacement up to 295cc. Please keep in mind some other places may sell kits with a larger displacement but by doing so you're DRASTICALLY limiting the motor's life with the inability to re-bore / hone later. And let me tell you, finding parts is a difficult thing, especially blocks if you throw too big of a piston sleeve in there!

In regards to exhaust, you can find pipes and mufflers just about anywhere. They don't make too many modification that I've seen. In my opinion, reason for this is, the bike was designed from the factory to be a race bike with a stock speed of over 70mph easy! [Dirt Wheels April 88 ed.] Remember on a track you'll RARELY hit speeds greater than 60mph, it's all a matter of how quick you can get there!

Hope this helps, if you have any other questions just throw em out.

'87 Mojave
'87 Tecate
'00 DS650 [bigger is better]
 
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Old 04-24-2000, 10:49 AM
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Sorry I neglected to answer your question regarding the oil leak.

First of all, where is it leaking? Around the drain plug? or is it trickling down from somewhere else?

The oil in this particular bike is only used to lubricate the gears / transmission. It could be anything from a stripped drain plug to just a gasket. Worst case scenario you might have cracked the engine casing underneath.

If it looks like it might be trickling somewhere then coming out near the drain plug, unfortunately with the skid plates and frame in the way, you may have to remove the motor to see.

Try going to your local automotive store and get something called "Block Seal" it's much similar to the stuff you put in your car to stop a radiator leak.

They sell two kinds though, so be carefull. One has metal particles in it, the other does not. Choose the one WITHOUT the metal in it. What it'll do is, under heat, while leaking through a crack, bad gasket seal, etc. will start to fill it in.

It will not damage the engine, and if you end up tearing the motor apart at a later date, it comes off as easy as a gasket.
 
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Old 04-24-2000, 11:50 PM
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I can see you wanting to help the gent in the pevious post however "I WOULD NEVER PUT A BLOCK SEALENT INSIDE OF A OIL FILLED MOTOR" YES I WAS YELLING OUT LOUD. nothing personal to the kawasaki kid. please consider your investment. A few dollars in gaskets or seals would be the best thing to do.Clean your quad like grandma is coming over to inspect your ride,simple green or westleys bleech white (cleans white wall tires) seems to work best and will not harm your cases, don't forget turn off the gas&tip it up on the tail to wash underneath this is where all the crud is. let your quad dry and place over card board (HD style)see where it leaks over night. If you think that the drain plug is the problem KAWI had a metal crush washer from the factory,go getcha one if the threads are stripped ( go ahead and tiper up on the tail)look it over very closely A ford drain plug self tapping will work done serval this way on atvs of all brands as a last resort. Also the drain plug threads can be seen with the clutch cover& basket removed. part of the case will be gone in this area so oil will drain out that is why i didnt recommend a heli coil etc. hope this helps. Again nothing personal to the kawasaki kid just my opinion
 
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Old 04-25-2000, 08:40 AM
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Just an FYI, I used block sealant in a Cougar I still own, it blew a head gasket, so I threw some in to keep it from overheating, so it would make it to the shop (I'm a cheap a$$ and wouldn't tow it). The shop never experienced nor found any problems with me using it. Just sharing my experience. Nothing works better/longer than fixing the problem correctly.

'87 Kawasaki
'87 Tecate
'00 DS650 [Bigger IS Better]
 
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Old 04-26-2000, 01:05 PM
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I purchased an '87 tecate-4 from friend a while ago that was in pieces. Correct me if I am wrong, but when He and I where putting the bottom and top end back together, I seem to recall him showing me a small pin hole that lead from the where the oil sits to the crank. He claimed that as the oil got hot that it let small amounts into the crank to not only lubricate it with the gas, but also with the motor oil. If you were to put that "block seal" in the motor oil would it not tend to block that small hole, therefore limiting your lubrication around the crank. Again, correct me if I am wrong about this.
Thanks for the idea on the ford self tapping screw, I might try that this weekend if theh crush washer does not work!
 
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Old 04-26-2000, 02:06 PM
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I don't have any knowledge of that oil hole. Doesn't make much sense to me why they would engineer the bike that way, why not just increase the fuel/oil ratio if it needed more lubrication?

Is this hole above or below the oil level? If below, it woulnd't make much difference in oil temp, it would flow something all the time until level. If above, why would you rely on the the chance of oil splashing into this hole to lubricate a part?

Anyhow, I'm kicking myself in the pants about this whole "block seal" thing! LOL

Fix it right, then you won't have to fix it again!
 
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Old 04-26-2000, 02:07 PM
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I don't have any knowledge of that oil hole. Doesn't make much sense to me why they would engineer the bike that way, why not just increase the fuel/oil ratio if it needed more lubrication?

Is this hole above or below the oil level? If below, it woulnd't make much difference in oil temp, it would flow something all the time until level. If above, why would you rely on the the chance of oil splashing into this hole to lubricate a part?

Anyhow, I'm kicking myself in the pants about this whole "block seal" thing! LOL

Fix it right, then you won't have to fix it again!
 
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Old 04-26-2000, 02:35 PM
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Here is the problem, that was my first time dealing with a top and bottom end, so I kind of don't really remember where it was actually located at. I know longer see him anymore, so I can't ask him. I kind of thought at the time that he was joking with me, so I did not really pay any attention to him. He was that way. Trying to play people for a sucker, so you had to watch yourself. If I had to put money on it though, I would probably assume that it would be more of a splash hole, because if it were below the oil line, eventually all of the motor oil would probably end up in the crank. Thanks for the correction.
P.S. What in the heck does "LOL" mean??
 
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Old 04-26-2000, 03:48 PM
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LOL = laughing out loud
 


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