I just got a new 2003, yes new, Polaris Sportsman 90. It seems to run ok going slow but when you give it full throttle it starts to sputter and almost sound like the Muffler is making a louder eratictic popping sound once it seems to get real hot, muffler anyway and also looks like the muffler is cooking off some stuff. I have not removed the speed jumper yet, would this be the problem or the fact that it is running a mixed gas for the first tank as per the manual suggestion..

Any ideas

 

It's going to be both. The oil/gas for the first tank and the spark plug is going to foul on yah. After the first tank replace the plug. Try to run the tank as low as you can get it before putting fresh gas in it. That way you get most of the oil/gas mixture out. You might want to make a mark on your oil level to see if the injector is working. These dont have problems with that, but its good to have a visual that it is.
Also how fresh was the gas that was in it. If its had gas in it since 03 and just topped off by the dealer. I would syphon that out and start fresh with a new oil/gas mixture.... These are great machines and once your through with the first tank of gas and a new plug, it shouldnt give yah no problems.

 

Thanks for the reply, sure is going to suck having to wait for the tank to run low. The plug was all fowled up. As far as gas in the tank for three years, thats not the case as the machine was still in the crate.

 

Thats cool. I remember something about someone getting a SP90 03 new out of a crate from another post. Thats cool... Glad you decided on that one. There great machines. I'm thinking 03 was yellow. Trail tech makes a great digital speedo that tells speed/distance/fastest speed/hrs and such. For around $89.. I wish I would have got one of these for my kids SP90 from day one. If you dont you will wonder some day how far it's been ridden. There real easy to instal also.

 

Actually its a green one. Going to go out and go over everything as we took it for a little ride last night. Just to make sure all the bolts are tight and cables are not rubbing on anything. Might take the jumper out to see what it does.

 

I took the jumper out the day we got it. exspecially during break in.
In 03 they made a yellow one, I guess you had a choice back then. Some years they do that and others they dont. I like the green though. My kids is red. It was an limited edition untill the next year when they came out with the red as a choice.
Enjoy

 

Well took the jumper out today and boy doe she come to life. Now only two days old and my first mod is done. I put a switch up by the tether kill switch which is wired to the spot that the jumper was. Now I can turn the switch on when my daughter rides it untill she gets use to riding it realy well, Then when daddy oooh wants to go for a little ride I just hit the newly installed turbo switch and have fun.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]

 

chipster314,

As a suggestion, don't use the Pred-90's CDI Jumper to restrict the RPMs. Instead, only use the throttle screw on its thumb control assembly. If using the CDI jumper, it electronically stops the engine from reving past a certain point. If the throttle control screw is NOT set below this RPM rate, it continues to pump large arounts of gas into the engine. Since it can't rev high (because of the CDI jumper) the system starts to get flooded. It may back fire, it may run hot (because gas to air flow mixture is way off) and/or it may do other strange things. For us, we removed the jumper and only used the throttle control screw. Thus, it has the electrical ability to burn the gas that allowed to flow into the engine. If I remember correct, there is a warning in the manual that states it may "back fire or sputter" if both speed restrictors are NOT set properly. For us, we only used the 1 restrictor.

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Also, you may want to change its spark plug for certain RPM ranges. For example:
- NGK BPR7HS is the factory "normal" plug.
- NGK BR8HS is a colder plug. Great for higher RPM engines.
- NGK BP6HS ("P" for Protruding Tip and "6" for hotter plug) is great for low RPM engines. If wondering, lower RPMs don't "super burn" carbon out of its system. The "P" plug helps burn more carbon and higher heat allows even more carbon to burn away.

If wondering, I also use different heat ranges for my seasonal weather changes. NGK BR8HS for hot summer / long trail rides and NGK BRP6HS for "around the house" short winter rides.


Hope this info helps as well....

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I was wondering about that, thanks for the advice. Now to come up with a quick change adjuster screw[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img] . Well at least iI can use the switch I installed for the new lights when ever I get them.

 

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Using your newly installed switch for future DRLs (Daytime Running Lights) is a great idea.

As a suggestion, investigate the '06 SP-90 models. Their factory front lights might bolt directly onto your '03 SP-90 model. If they do, simply run a fused 14 guage wire from your "+" battery post (ensure inline fuse is within 6" of the battery), run the 14 guage wire from the switch to the newly installed front lights, and connect the other front light's wire to frame ground. Nice, clean and simple.

I've been told the DRL light assemblies from the '06 Pred-90 and '06 SP-90 models are expensive. But if you plan to keep your '03 SP-90 for many years, the usage cost per year might be worth it. Especially if driving in dark bush trails and/or trails loaded with lots of dust.

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