another chinese junk

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: billl2099

i'd like to know how you did this since disc brakes have no adjustments</end quote></div>

Sorry I should have been more specific. The bikes have rear disk brakes. When I said I adjusted the brakes I meant that I adjusted them by turning the adjusting screw on the brake lever on the handlebars. At the back of the bike where the brakes are I loosened the adjusting bolt then backed off 1/4 of a turn at a time as far as I could go (as per the user manual).

 

I don't know if this wil help anyone help me any. The technical specifications for my bikes are as follows:

ENGINE - One cylinder, two stroke, air cooled.
DISPLACEMENT - 49cc.
POWER OUTPUT - 2.5kw @ 7500rpm.
TORQUE - 3.5nm @ 6000rpm.
STARTER SYSTEM - manual pull start.
BRAKE - Rear disk.
TYRES - 3.00- 4" (front & rear).
FUEL - petrol, 1:25 engine oil mixing.
FUEL TANK CAPACITY - 1.8litre.
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I'm hoping this will somehow make it easier.

 

tranny oil or something silly maybe? I have no idea.

 

Ok I tried to post some pics but they didnt work, I've provided the link to some photos of my girls bikes. I hope it works this time.

Our bike pics

 

When you put the bike together did you put the rear wheels on. Check the castle nuts on the rear wheels and see if they are wrenched really tight.they should be just snug enough so the wheel doesnt flop back and forth then put the pin back in.The castle nut is under the rubber center cap in center of wheel.Don`t feel bummed out about the negative attitudes of some of the others on here because you can get a lot of helpful info, here. bill2099 got me through a repair over the weekend. let me know what happens. axle008

 

Hi, thanks for your info, the bikes were mostly together when they were delivered, all I had to do was put on the handlebars. I'll have a look at the back wheels, thanks again!
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

"Hi, thanks every one for your help, the smart ***** can kiss mine. I can't simply take the bike back to the dealer because I live 6 hours away from a dealership (I'm in Australia), I bought chinese because they were cheap, I cant afford much because I'm a single mother and I thought they'd be ok for my daughters to learn on.

Now if I can get some answers to what I'm actually asking that would be great."

Sorry if this gets a little long, but I type fast and have a few minutes to kill, oh and hope it helps tooo [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

There are some ***** that it would be both wise, and smart to be kissing [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

Anyhow before the positive comes the negative and honestly I hope you have better experience with your purchase than others have had with differnt products from china as it sounds like your trying to do the right thing, and mechanical catashtophe doesnt sound like something that would be easy to over come. Anyway its not all bad (cheap chinese stuff), but way tooo much of it isnt up to par etc.

OK here is the helpfull part, and sorry for the rant above, but maybe just maybe it will be helpful to someone else in the future who is considering a too good to be true deal by making them think.

First off a 50cc engine unless its running absolutely so poorly that the fumes would be killing you and making more unusual noises than you could remember should be turning the wheels and moving those little atvs no problem. So at least its not soundling like you have any serious engine problems to deal with.

My initial advice is not to let things get complicated, or overwhelm yourself. These machines are not all that complicated (really there not, and I mean all of them) and even though I have never seen one of the models you have in person and deff never worked on one I am going to just take it one step at a time and if you do the same it will turn it all into little projects, and not overcomplicate things by being intimidated by the whole package or machine at once.

Heck you may even become mechanically inclined by the time your done [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

There have been some excellent suggestions so far, but maybe just braking things down will help.

First I have to ask a few questions. When the girls are able to ride them and there moving does the engine sound like its speeding up? Does it sound like the engine is racing but the atv just isnt going anyware, or does the engine seem to be bogged down or just not revving up etc?

There are a few reasons this is important and it will help determine if the problem is coming from the amount of power, gearing, drive, or brake system.

Maybe you had noticed if the brake caliper or ? seemed hot when they were being driven?

The brakes look like they are cable actuated, and not hydraulic disc brakes, and therfore turning the bolt or nut will preset the amount of pressure on them and also how much pressure can be applied during braking. I cant be sure from the pics, but you need to confirm that losening the bolt removes the pressure on the disc, and does not increase it (it should reduce but be sure).

Do the machines roll around freely when not running? If not try and see if you can lift the front and then the rear tires off the ground and see if the resistance from rolling is isolated to one end. If its a drive problem (beaarings in rear, trans or clutch, rear etc) the front end should be free. OK help me out here as I may have goofed a little as I dont see any front brakes in the pics, and if thats correct all that you would be testing in the front is the wheel bearings.

If you installed the rear brake then you can also remove it, and see if there is any resistance with it removed. Maybe even start with this if you believe this is where the problem lies. Dont let the girls ride it, but just test it out on a flat surface by pushing it etc and see what if anything changes.

After you can determine if the brakes are hanging up or not, then we can move forward and find what else maybe causing the problem.

Just by looking at the drive chain it looks like it would be a pain to work with, and I can not be 100% sure on its proper adjustment method, but if the brake checks out ok then I would suggest lifting the rear of the machine and supporting it really good (jack stands are good, but a strong box oreven a milk crate would do the job.

Now I cant be sure but it appears that there are two splits in the rear carrier that should house the bearings and may also adjust the chain. There are two of them and one each side of the rear axle just outboard of the sprocket and brake disc. It looks to use a cap screw (allen wrench is used to turn them) and depending on exactly how they are designed they should hold the carrier and or bearings as well as allow some adjustment.

I cant be sure if this is part of the problem, but if these do house bearings and they are too tight it could or would cause drag or resistence to the axle.

Try to losen these a little and see if the rear wheels turn easy or easier.

Its really little more than a process of elimination.

Sooner or later you will find the problem and all should be well.

Good luck, and if those dont help or your findings change post up the info so that we can get you going etc

 

deleded

 

Hi, thanks to everyone for your suggestions... I think we might be getting somewhere! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: 440EX026

First I have to ask a few questions. When the girls are able to ride them and there moving does the engine sound like its speeding up? Does it sound like the engine is racing but the atv just isnt going anyware, or does the engine seem to be bogged down or just not revving up etc?</end quote></div>

When the bike is moving the engine is going flat out and the bike just doesnt move.

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Maybe you had noticed if the brake caliper or ? seemed hot when they were being driven?

Do the machines roll around freely when not running? If not try and see if you can lift the front and then the rear tires off the ground and see if the resistance from rolling is isolated to one end. If its a drive problem (beaarings in rear, trans or clutch, rear etc) the front end should be free. OK help me out here as I may have goofed a little as I dont see any front brakes in the pics, and if thats correct all that you would be testing in the front is the wheel bearings.</end quote></div>

The brakes don't get hot and when not running the bike does not move freely when pushed. The back wheels don't turn as if the brakes are on. The front wheels move fine at all times and can easily be moved by hand. There are no front brakes only back. I took the brakes completely off and the back wheels still do not turn whether the bike is being ridden or pushed.


<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Now I cant be sure but it appears that there are two splits in the rear carrier that should house the bearings and may also adjust the chain. There are two of them and one each side of the rear axle just outboard of the sprocket and brake disc. It looks to use a cap screw (allen wrench is used to turn them) and depending on exactly how they are designed they should hold the carrier and or bearings as well as allow some adjustment.

I cant be sure if this is part of the problem, but if these do house bearings and they are too tight it could or would cause drag or resistence to the axle.

Try to losen these a little and see if the rear wheels turn easy or easier.</end quote></div>

This I am going to try next, thanks 440EX026!

I am also going to try billl2099's suggestion on the chain & clutch stuff.

Thanks so much!

I'll let you know how I go with it.