<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: moomba99

I have sprayed directly into the cylinder and nothing. When I spray directly into the cylinder put the plug back in and pull 8000 tiems still nothing. However, If I spray directly into the cylinder and leave the plug out holding it just against the hole it will ignite the fuel and depending on how close I hold it to the hole it will make the bike backfire.</end quote></div>

If there's fuel and spark in the cylinder, that fuel HAS to burn. Even if you're not getting any new air into the cylinder, there should be enough to ignite a little fuel. Are you saying you don't get ignition at ALL? If so, as weird as this sounds, I wonder if the plug is sparking when it's IN the cylinder. Have you swapped in a new plug, or regapped the current one to Suzuki's spec?

 

Is the ignition timing within specs?

 

I have tried 6 different plugs, colder to hotter, no difference. as far as timing goes, I am in the dark. I do not have a manual for this bike so timing is going to be difficult. As I said earlier, the bike ran fine until it starting losing power which I was only asuming clutch slipping cause the bike was still reving up to a high rpm. I let it sit for a few hours, tried to start again and this is where I am, no firing. As far as the plug firing inside the cylinder....I was wodering the same thing. But the ground you would thing would be just as good if not better once it was threaded into the cylinder. It has GREAT spark outside the cylinder and even ignites the fuel from outside the cylinder. Once threaded inside the head....NOTHING.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: moomba99As far as the plug firing inside the cylinder....I was wodering the same thing. But the ground you would thing would be just as good if not better once it was threaded into the cylinder. It has GREAT spark outside the cylinder and even ignites the fuel from outside the cylinder. Once threaded inside the head....NOTHING.</end quote></div>

Yes, the grounding is going to be fine once it's screwed into the cylinder. That wasn't my concern. I was wondering if anything ELSE might cause the plug not to spark while screwed in.

You have air, even if it's only the air trapped within the cylinder when you take out the plug for a moment. You have fuel, even if it's only the fuel you manually squirted into the cylinder. IF you have spark within the cylinder, even at the "wrong time", it will ignite whatever fuel is in there and you'll know it by sound or feel. Bad timing in this case doesn't matter... a spark anytime inside a cylinder containing air and fuel should cause ignition. At this point you're not trying to get the engine to run, just confirm that it will light up an air-fuel mixture.

So I'm still betting that you're not getting a spark inside the cylinder. I'm not sure how to confirm that, though. Perhaps remove the head, put the plug in it, and make sure it sparks while screwed into the head? Or back off the head screws enough that the head isn't sealed to the cylinder, then repeat your test and see if you get ignition then? (Should be even more obvious than normal because of blowby.) Somehow you need to take little baby steps between "plug entirely out" and "plug entirely in" to see when the spark disappears.

Is there anything else you do when testing like this that might affect spark? Any wires disconnected? Engine switch on? Key on? I know this sounds stupid but sometimes it's just something simple that you forget out of habit.

 

I thought of that as well. But even if something was indeed off I shouldn't get a spark correct. If I'm wrong Iwill gladly take apart every connection and clean them. I did make sure the key is on and the kill button was disengaged but again if they were to fail I would still lean toward no spark.

 

Did you make sure the tether cord switch was fully seated back by the rear grab bar?

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: moomba99I thought of that as well. But even if something was indeed off I shouldn't get a spark correct. I did make sure the key is on and the kill button was disengaged but again if they were to fail I would still lean toward no spark.</end quote></div>

Agreed. What I was asking is if there's "something" you do differently between plug-in and plug-out tests. Do you move something on or near the engine? Do you lean on the machine in a certain way that might jostle something? Little things like that.

You said you noticed a gradual degradation in performance, down to the point where it won't start at all now. That doesn't sound like something "broke", it sounds like something was failing over time. But that's the second thing you should fix.

The FIRST thing is discover why, with the plug in, you're not getting a spark. Seriously. Either the fuel-air mixture isn't igniting, or it IS igniting and you can't tell. I suspect you could tell. So the real question is why does your spark go away once the plug is installed. I would focus my attention there to prove there is a spark INSIDE THE CYLINDER, a step at a time.

 

It is and unless I am missing something very important, This should still prevent any ignition if not functioning properly???

 

I guess can try all of these connection just for process of elimination. on the kill switch and or the tether kill if I were to bypass them is it just a simple disconnect or do I need to run a jumper between the wires after disconnect. Same question I guess with the key switch.

 

I suspect the switches are fine. Do your plug-out test again to confirm spark, which will prove all switches are functional. Then move on to the "prove there's spark in the cylinder" process, because until you are able to ignite the fuel-air mixture you're not going anywhere.