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My comments in blue...
Originally Posted by Garrett111
(Post 3059490)
Ok i retested
Method1= no spark [This completely eliminates the kill switch input to the CDI. Thus you definitely have a problem other than the kill switch.] Method2= 0 ohm [But this also says you also *do* have a problem with the kill switch. Zero ohms to ground at the CDI kill switch input pin will absolutely, totally, and completely *kill* spark. So now (if your measurements are accurate) we have two problems: A problem with the kill switch input wire to the CDI, and another problem besides. So for any future tests take the kill switch wire out of the CDI connector (Method A). Leave that wire out. That takes all the kill switch wire issues out of the picture for the time being. Once we get spark back (after solving the other problem) we will reinsert the kill switch wire and solve that problem next. One problem at a time...] Test1= ol ohm [This is wrong.] Test2= ol ohm [This is wrong too. This is just too many problems all happening at once :confused:. I'm wondering if there is something fundamentally wrong in how you are using the meter? Is the meter dead? I don't know, I'm not there ;). Is there someone you know that has used a meter and can look over you shoulder? Do you have access to another meter? Another thought (and a different tact)... Look down at the wire bundle coming out of the side engine cover and going through some connectors into the main harness. Are all the wires unplugged? How many wires do you have there, and what are their colors?] Test3= 3.0 to3.2 volts ac [More wrong values... ] Test4= 0.201 to 0.211 Volts ac [Perhaps reasonable values, but coupled with the other data it doesn't add up.] Testa= 0.3 to 0.4 ohms [This looks normal.] Testb= 0 volts ac [Based on all the other problems I'm not surprised there is no ouput from the CDI] All test were done on auto |
Ok i assume u r talking about the wires coming from the magneto they are plugged in there are 5 wires green yellow white blue/white stripe and black/red stripe i also checked harness all plugs are good exept the two headlights are not plugged and alarm not plugged i removed all electical tape from harness there are around 6
splices either just wrapped and taped or souldered but all of them looked connected good 2 of the wires had melted spots but not to bad. I also bought a cheap meter it also has auto feature cannot set the range i retested the cdi plug. Method1= no spark Method2=ol ohm Test1=ol ohm Test2= ol ohm Test3=5.83 to 5.90 ac Test4=.532 to .559 ac Test a= .4 ohm Test b= 0 ac |
I just realized foot brake had a safety kill too i new hand brake did but with footbrake pressed test 2= 3.5 to 4.5 ohms everything else looked the same i will do better test tommorow ang connect al those sPlices better than they are
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Originally Posted by Garrett111
(Post 3059813)
Ok i assume u r talking about the wires coming from the magneto they are plugged in there are 5 wires green yellow white blue/white stripe and black/red stripe i also checked harness all plugs are good exept the two headlights are not plugged and alarm not plugged i removed all electical tape from harness there are around 6
splices either just wrapped and taped or souldered but all of them looked connected good 2 of the wires had melted spots but not to bad. I also bought a cheap meter it also has auto feature cannot set the range i retested the cdi plug. Method1= no spark Method2=ol ohm Test1=ol ohm Test2= ol ohm Test3=5.83 to 5.90 ac Test4=.532 to .559 ac Test a= .4 ohm Test b= 0 ac I notice that method 2 now shows open instead of shorted. That is correct, so one problem out of the way. Tests 1,2,3 & 4, are all completely wrong. Your quad will never work like that for sure. Test 5 is wrong too, but that is understandable based on tests 1 through 4. The wire colors coming out of the stator are all pretty standard, but the obsevation that they are spliced, taped, and/or soldered is not standard. Since everything is measuring so bizarrely wrong I'm wondering if the stator connections are completely miswired... With your meter set to ohms, measure the resistance of all the wires at the stator to the green wire. I am particular interested in the blk/red wire to green, and the blue/wht to green. These should be the same wires that you measured as open (ol) at the CDI connector, only further down the harness. If you still measure open on these wires then your stator is completely bad. If you now measure resistances like 450 ohms and 150 ohms respectively, then your wiring connections are scrambled. Which colors were melted? Also measure the resistance from the green wire at the stator to engine/frame ground. It should be zero ohms (not open). |
Originally Posted by Garrett111
(Post 3059828)
I just realized foot brake had a safety kill too i new hand brake did but with footbrake pressed test 2= 3.5 to 4.5 ohms everything else looked the same i will do better test tommorow ang connect al those sPlices better than they are
But this has nothing to do with whether you get spark or not. If brake switches are your problem your starter wouldn't turn. |
Ok i fooled around with all splices and connected better after that my reading are
At stator plug Green to blue/white =10.0 to 19.0 miliohms green to red/black= flashes from ol to 0 sometimes reads 8.6 to 12.0 miliohms These test were auto dont know why reading miliohms At cdi plug Test1=first read 194.5 to 200 ohms then started flashing back and forth to ol Test2=140 to 170 ohms Test3= .215 volts Test4= .213 volts Test a = .5 volts Testb = .001 to.002 to .000 Forgot stator plug from green to engine frame .6 miliohms Ok i read 1 of your post about testing the stator windings At stator plug winding1 from yellow to white= .4 to .5 volts Winding2 from blue/white to green= .100 to .300 volts Wnding 3 black/red to green = 3.0 to 3.1 volts I also have another question I blew fuse off the battery on red wire so i hooked it direct red wire to red wire is that ok ? Do i need to replace fuse ? I also did not know what battery to put it did not have a battery when i got it i bought a 9 now i know it takes a 5 can that hurt it? Is that why the fuse blew to big of battery? |
On test a at cdi plug i meant to say ohms not volts
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Some comments embedded in blue...
Originally Posted by Garrett111
(Post 3060664)
Ok i fooled around with all splices and connected better after that my reading are
At stator plug Green to blue/white =10.0 to 19.0 miliohms [Nope. Wrong. And it conflicts with the very same measurement down at test 2 below.] green to red/black= flashes from ol to 0 sometimes reads 8.6 to 12.0 miliohms [Nope. This wrong too.] These test were auto dont know why reading miliohms [I'm wondering the same thing...] At cdi plug Test1=first read 194.5 to 200 ohms then started flashing back and forth to ol [Totally wrong...] Test2=140 to 170 ohms [This looks OK. But this is the very same test as with the blue/white wire to the green wire right above in this very post. Yet you get completely different results here. And these results are different from the same measurement in your last post results. ] Test3= .215 volts [Wrong...] Test4= .213 volts [Wrong...] Test a = .5 volts [With the inputs being so wrong these values for tests a) and b) have no meaning.] Testb = .001 to.002 to .000 Forgot stator plug from green to engine frame .6 miliohms [0.6 ohms maybe?] Ok i read 1 of your post about testing the stator windings At stator plug winding1 from yellow to white= .4 to .5 volts Winding2 from blue/white to green= .100 to .300 volts Wnding 3 black/red to green = 3.0 to 3.1 volts I also have another question I blew fuse off the battery on red wire so i hooked it direct red wire to red wire is that ok ? Do i need to replace fuse ? [No, that is *not* OK. In fact it is dangerous to do this. You need to have a fuse in line with the battery. Batteries can put out tremendous current into a short circuit. Without a fuse to protect the wiring this current is enough to vaporize wires and cause instant fire. Remember that you have a gas tank that will be sitting right over top of this wiring fire. You can buy inline fuses at any auto parts store for cheap. Please do not blow this off. Don't burn down your house, or light the forest on fire. Put in a fuse.] I also did not know what battery to put it did not have a battery when i got it i bought a 9 now i know it takes a 5 can that hurt it? Is that why the fuse blew to big of battery? [By "9" as compared to "5" I am assuming you are referrng to amp-hour rating? If so, both "9" or "5" amp-hours will work fine. It has nothing to do with fuses blowing. If your quad doesn't start then a 9 amp-hour battery will crank the starter for almost twice as long before going dead (9/5'ths as long to be exact). Either way your quad isn't starting. But if your quad was working fine either one of them would start up the quad in seconds. So there would be *no* difference in that respect. So why would anyone buy a more expensive 9 amp-hour battery instead of a 5 amp-hour? This is a judgment call. If you're on the trail and the quad doesn't start, perhaps you have the ability to fix things. Try fix one - it doesn't start. Try fix 2 and it doesn't start. Try fix umpty nine, and voila - it starts. In this case maybe then the extra cranking time is important. But if you are the type that just cranks the starter again and again - between curses and prayers - without going through any troubleshooting process than the extra cranking capacity is totally wasted. You still aren't going anywhere. Plus you are hauling around all that extra lead in the larger battery. You are having *extreme* difficulty getting repeatable results. This should not be. If you measure the resistance of something it should be be the same today, tomorrow, and two weeks from now. It should not change. If it does you need to figure out why. It should be the same no matter what meter you use. Your readings vary tremendously from post to post, and even in the same post. This is not right. If it were just one item measuring differently then maybe you have an intermittent connection right at the point you are trying to measure. But just about all of your readings are all over the map. Bad data gives bad results. You can't get to the promised land unless you can get good repeatable data. I can't be there to see what your are doing. Is there anyone that you know who can look over your shoulder while you are doing these tests? Something that you are doing is fundamentally wrong. I just don't know what yet. |
Ok i think the problem was my fingers were touching the lead tips and throwing of my measurements i did not know that i have never used meter before this and no i have no one to help me i also replaced the fuse. I retested over and over again the results are staying the same i took test 1 - 4 on cdi plug and stator plug results stayed the exact same
Test1= ol ohms Test2= 138.8 ohms everytime Test3= 12 to 15 volts everytime Test4= .213 to .242 volts everytime Im sorry i did not realize my fingertips were affecting results i am learning as i go but these measurements are consistant and they were taken at cdi plug and stator plug i have ordered new stator I also noticed that when taking measurement from ground to kill switch red lead on kill switch and black on ground =ol But when i switch black on kill and red on ground i get 50 ohms i thought this did not matter with ohms |
Comments again in blue...
Originally Posted by Garrett111
(Post 3060791)
Ok i think the problem was my fingers were touching the lead tips and throwing of my measurements i did not know that i have never used meter before this and no i have no one to help me i also replaced the fuse. I retested over and over again the results are staying the same i took test 1 - 4 on cdi plug and stator plug results stayed the exact same
Test1= ol ohms [This is wrong] Test2= 138.8 ohms everytime [OK] Test3= 12 to 15 volts everytime [This is wrong too, but because test 1 is wrong this just be more symptoms of the same problem] Test4= .213 to .242 volts everytime [OK] Im sorry i did not realize my fingertips were affecting results i am learning as i go but these measurements are consistant and they were taken at cdi plug and stator plug i have ordered new stator I also noticed that when taking measurement from ground to kill switch red lead on kill switch and black on ground =ol But when i switch black on kill and red on ground i get 50 ohms i thought this did not matter with ohms [This should not be unless you measured this with the CDI hooked up. With the CDI disconnected you should only be measuring switches - and switches don't care which way around the meter is hooked up. But if you did these resistance measurements while the CDI is connected you could be measuring some semiconductor junctions in side the CDI which could change with meter lead polarity] |
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