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Im getting no spark on a coolster 125cc please help
I just got this 4 wheeler im getting no spark to plug i bought a new cdi and ignition coil still no spark the kill switch works what could it be maybe magneto or voltage regulater i dont no please help
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Originally Posted by Garrett111
(Post 3058702)
I just got this 4 wheeler im getting no spark to plug i bought a new cdi and ignition coil still no spark the kill switch works what could it be maybe magneto or voltage regulater i dont no please help
You said the kill switch works. How do you know that? What procedure did you use to determine that? I'm just fishing for all the information I can get so I can mentally chew on it :). Once we know which style CDI you have there are generic procedures to follow for each which I can post. You'll need a meter....;) |
My cdi has 5 pins i really dont know if switch works it wouldnt work then i changed the contact coil/relay and the part that cranks the engine would work but i dont know if the kill switch part worked now the start part doesnt work again the parts are cheap so i ordered a new switch and the whole wire harness my friend is helping me and he has a real nice ohm meter i can use all the help i can get your expertise would be appriciated
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The engine turns over and the starter works fyi.
So when my parts come in i will have new cdi ignition ciol silinoid kill switch wire harness voltage regulater hope fully it works could it be any thing else? |
Here is the generic procedure for testing Chinese 4 stroke engine 5 pin CDI ignition systems:
Is this a picture of your CDI? http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/p...o/50cc-cdi.jpg Assuming the answer is yes, the first thing to do is eliminate all kill switches and kill switch wiring: Method 1) Unplug the CDI and remove the kill switch pin in the CDI connector on the wiring harness. The pin is held in with a spring tab on the pin itself. You'll have to probe into the connector and push this tab in order to extract the pin. Plug the CDI back in (kill switch wire dangling) and see if you have spark. Method 2) Unplug the CDI. Turn on the ignition switch and set all kill switches to the run position. Use a meter to measure resistance in of the kill switch pin in the wiring harness connector to engine/frame ground. If the reistance is infinite on the 100K ohm scale then your kill switches/kill switch wiring are OK. If you measure zero ohms then you have a kill switch/wiring issue. The other inputs your CDI needs to make spark are AC Ignition Power, and the Trigger signal. Do the following: 1) Unplug the CDI. In the wiring connector measure the resistance of the AC Ignition Power pin to the Ground pin. You should see 400 ohms or so. What do you measure? 2) Measure the resistance of the Timing/trigger pin to the ground pin. You should measure 150 ohms or so. What do you measure? 3) Leave the CDI unplugged. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 100 volt scale. Measure the voltage on the AC Ignition Power pin to the ground pin while cranking the engine. You should see 40 to 80 volts AC while the engine is cranking. What do you measure? 4) Set your meter to measure AC volts on the lowest scale you have. Ideally this would be 2 volts but many meters don't go down this low. In that case use the lowest scale you have. Measure the voltage on the Timing Trigger pin to the Ground pin while cranking the engine. You should 0.2 t0 0.4 volts AC. What do you measure? Now for measuring the output side of the CDI: A) Leave the CDI unplugged. In the CDI wiring connector measure the resistance of the Ignition Coil pin to the ground pin. You should measure less than 1 ohm (but not zero ohms). What do you measure? B) Plug the CDI back in. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 20 volt scale. Set all kill switches to the run position. Crank the engine while measuring the voltage on the Igntition Coil pin to ground. Poke through the insulation of the wire if you can't probe the connector. Caution: There should be moderately high voltage spikes on this wire. Make sure your fingers are not part of the circuitry. Don't touch the probe lead tips while doing this test. What you should see is a lot of random numbers with lots of zero values as well. This is because the meter may catch all or part of the spark event voltage, with a lot of nothing in between. Describe what you see. Note: Using a meter to measure this point produces highly variable results depending on the meter. What you really need is an oscilloscope, but most always a meter is all that is available. We have to do the best we can with what's available. Describe the meter results as accurately as you can - there is information there to chew on.... |
First of all i am not famillar with meters the meter i am using is a fluke 117 true rms multimeter my friends meter he said the meter automaticly sets itself so i did all these test on auto if this is not right ill explain settings after results i only understood the auto part
Ok this is my cdi Kill switch method 1= no spark Kill switch method 2= 0 ohms Test1 cdi unplugged ac ignition pin to ground pin = 0 ohms meter was actualy just reading ol Test 2 cdi unplugged timing trigger pin to ground pin = 0 ohms-ol same as test1 Test 3 cdi unplugged ac power pin to ground pin while cranking=3.0 to 3.3volts AC Test4 cdi unplugged timing trigger pin to ground pin while cranking=0.201 to 0.211 volts AC Output test A cdi unplugged ignition coil pin to ground pin = 0.3 to 0.4 ohms Test B cdi plugged in while cranking from ignition coil pin to ground pin = 0 volts AC All test were done in automatic on meter and with ignition switch in on positoin and kill switch in run positoin. I hope thes test can be done on auto if not let me know |
Ok about the meter if i did wrong meter has a min/max button and a range lo/hi button ok on AC volts min/max button changes it to manual min max and avg and range button changes from 6 to 6 0 to 6 00 and ohms have min max and avg. Range changes m ohms 6 and 6.0
K ohms 6 to 6 0 and 6 00 |
My comment in blue:
Originally Posted by Garrett111
(Post 3059256)
First of all i am not famillar with meters the meter i am using is a fluke 117 true rms multimeter my friends meter he said the meter automaticly sets itself so i did all these test on auto if this is not right ill explain settings after results i only understood the auto part [Autoranging is great. Go ahead and use it. Most people (including me) don't have such a fancy meter ;)]
Ok this is my cdi Kill switch method 1= no spark Kill switch method 2= 0 ohms [ Zero ohms is wrong. But make sure that you understand the difference between zero ohms (what you get when you short the meter leads together when measuring ohms), and infinte ohms (what you get when you leave the meter leads disconnected while measuring ohms). You should be getting infinite ohms. Zero ohms will absolutely and totally *kill* spark. Differentiating these two conditions is realy important :)] Test1 cdi unplugged ac ignition pin to ground pin = 0 ohms meter was actualy just reading ol [Once again, these two measurements couldn't be more opposite each other. One is a short and the other open. Which is it? And both are wrong, by the way. So I'm wondering if this is measurment error or a real problem to be looked into further.] Test 2 cdi unplugged timing trigger pin to ground pin = 0 ohms-ol same as test1 [This is more of the same... We need to get to the point where we can tell the difference between open and shorted. Don't get discouraged - we can get there...] Test 3 cdi unplugged ac power pin to ground pin while cranking=3.0 to 3.3volts AC [This is way too low. Hmmm] Test4 cdi unplugged timing trigger pin to ground pin while cranking=0.201 to 0.211 volts AC [Finally a reading that looks perhaps reasonable] Output test A cdi unplugged ignition coil pin to ground pin = 0.3 to 0.4 ohms [Looks reasonable] Test B cdi plugged in while cranking from ignition coil pin to ground pin = 0 volts AC [Definately wrong, and perhaps becoming consistant. Lets get measuring techniques down and see if this is consistantly coming up as a problem when measuring both voltage and resistances] All test were done in automatic on meter and with ignition switch in on positoin and kill switch in run positoin. [Again, autorange is great. Go ahead and use it. Don't use min/max/average functions. They will only confuse the issue. If you accidently get into the min/max/avg mode shut the meter off and turn it back on. That should cancel the min/mx/avg stuff.] I hope thes test can be done on auto if not let me know |
Ok i thought ol and 0 were the same i will retest after work and give u exact results
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Ok i retested
Method1= no spark Method2= 0 ohm Test1= ol ohm Test2= ol ohm Test3= 3.0 to3.2 volts ac Test4= 0.201 to 0.211 Volts ac Testa= 0.3 to 0.4 ohms Testb= 0 volts ac All test were done on auto |
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