2007 KFX 50 Hard Starting
#11
10-01-2017, 10:33 AM
#12
10-01-2017, 12:05 PM
Join Date: Feb 2016
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So I changed out all I previously wrote about above. Filled it up with fuel, cranked it for a few seconds to get the fuel back through the system and it started right up. Idle went to high idle for a few minutes and then kicked down. Pressing on the gas and it didn't stumble. Rode it around the block and all was well. shut it down and restarted with no problems.
Just now (79 degrees F) went out to the garage and it fired right up with no issues. So the work I did above definitely fixed the problem.
Before you drop $70 for the jetstarter, I would clean the carb. My carb looked really clean. This bike when I got it was super clean and I bought it from a one owner who said his kid only rode it like a handful of times. I wanted to eliminate that as a problem and while it was out I cleaned it. I saved the old jetstarter, so some time if I'm ever back int there I may just swap it as an experiment to see what happens so I can truly say it is dead.
With the carb I would make sure you change out all o-rings. The kits will come with about everything you need, see my complaints above, but the one thing it does not come with is the o-ring in the spacer. There is an o-ring between the carb and spacer in the kit but you may need the one between the spacer and the cylinder. Mine looked a little flat and hard, not brittle, so I figured I would replace that too as it is only like $0.39. I wanted to make sure I eliminated any air leaks through the fuel system.
The following are the part numbers for anyone interested.
14037-Y001 SCREEN (the in tank fuel filter/screen)
16157-Y001 JET-STARTER
92055-Y007 ORING,23X2.4 ATV0801 (o-ring between the spacer and the cylinder)
14043-Y002 FILTER,FUEL (the inline fuel filter)
Just now (79 degrees F) went out to the garage and it fired right up with no issues. So the work I did above definitely fixed the problem.
Before you drop $70 for the jetstarter, I would clean the carb. My carb looked really clean. This bike when I got it was super clean and I bought it from a one owner who said his kid only rode it like a handful of times. I wanted to eliminate that as a problem and while it was out I cleaned it. I saved the old jetstarter, so some time if I'm ever back int there I may just swap it as an experiment to see what happens so I can truly say it is dead.
With the carb I would make sure you change out all o-rings. The kits will come with about everything you need, see my complaints above, but the one thing it does not come with is the o-ring in the spacer. There is an o-ring between the carb and spacer in the kit but you may need the one between the spacer and the cylinder. Mine looked a little flat and hard, not brittle, so I figured I would replace that too as it is only like $0.39. I wanted to make sure I eliminated any air leaks through the fuel system.
The following are the part numbers for anyone interested.
14037-Y001 SCREEN (the in tank fuel filter/screen)
16157-Y001 JET-STARTER
92055-Y007 ORING,23X2.4 ATV0801 (o-ring between the spacer and the cylinder)
14043-Y002 FILTER,FUEL (the inline fuel filter)
#13
10-01-2017, 12:19 PM
Join Date: Feb 2016
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One other thing, if you don't have the manual and you want to clean the carb, the only other piece of information you will need is about the float and where to set the height.
FLOAT LEVEL INSPECTION Turn the carburetor upside down so that the float will go down to make the float valve contact the float valve seat. Then slowly tilt the carburetor and measure the float level with the float level gauge while the float pin just contacts with float valve.
Float Level: 10.2 mm (0.408 in)
Their float level gauge looked like an upside down U that rested on both sides of the carb base. I used a mm ruler (if you do this, make sure the ruler is shaved off right at zero as most rulers do not start at the very end.) You will want to set the ruler flush on the carb rim (where the bowl rest) and take your measurement at the opposite end from the hinge of the float. If you need to adjust the float, then carefully bend the metal tang on the hinge end to get the proper height of the float.
FLOAT LEVEL INSPECTION Turn the carburetor upside down so that the float will go down to make the float valve contact the float valve seat. Then slowly tilt the carburetor and measure the float level with the float level gauge while the float pin just contacts with float valve.
Float Level: 10.2 mm (0.408 in)
Their float level gauge looked like an upside down U that rested on both sides of the carb base. I used a mm ruler (if you do this, make sure the ruler is shaved off right at zero as most rulers do not start at the very end.) You will want to set the ruler flush on the carb rim (where the bowl rest) and take your measurement at the opposite end from the hinge of the float. If you need to adjust the float, then carefully bend the metal tang on the hinge end to get the proper height of the float.