upgrades for 03 lt50
#3
LT-50, LT50A, etc.
Here you go:
1. Remove the exhaust from the cylinder and eliminate the washer that reduces exhaust flow. You will now experience more top speed.
2. Remove the stock air filter and install a K&N or Uni 2 stage foam pod. This requires that you get an air filter adapter. I use my own adapter but you can also get the filter adapter used on the Go-Peds. It will work just fine but use should use some red thread lock on the two screws (if they back off, they will go into the motor).
3. Pull the intake manifold and remove the hardened steel slotted restrictor. I heat the manifold and then place a large screw driver in the slot and turn -- The screw driver was kept in the freezer so that it would draw the heat out of the steel restrictor. Once you get it out, you can back fill the void with JB Weld and then remake the hole so that there is no transition. It is very easy.
4. Pull the carb. Remove the slide cover and eliminate the brass sleeve located between the slide and the slide cover. Next, raise the needle one clip position (make the needle higher). While you are there, pull the float bowl and locate the pilot jet. Remove it. You will see that there is a second pilot jet located just behind the one you removed. Leave that one alone -- it is the correct size for the unrestricted engine. NOTE: On occasion, the fuel needle and seat is too small. If you are skilled at jet work, you can attempt to drill it and hone a new seat for the needle. This may only be necessary if you cannot get full throttle to hit without falling off within 15 feet.
5. Oil injection. Remove it if you want. Your engine will be alot happier. At a minimum, you can reduce the rate of oil.
6. Clutch. This is slightly more involved but can be done. Simply increase the spring tension on the clutches. If your clutch is old, just buy a new one and modify it before installation.
7. Exhaust baffle. Remove it and cut the last 3" off. That will eliminate the spark arrestor function so drive safely. I braze a down turn on the exhaust tip just to direct the exhaust away from the plastic and to direct the noise into the ground. I hear a couple of people have made pipes for this machine by why???
8. So you want more power ---- Pull the cylinder. Raise the cylinder so that the transfer ports are fully open when the piston is at BDC. Then correct the squish by decking the cylinder to achieve a .030" squish. I forgot the head cc number I use so just go with a static compression number of 160. Watch the jetting and the spark plug heat range. That B6 is a burner!
Now, after you consider all of this work realize that for about a grand, you could have had a Kasea super mini 50. It is the same size as the LT50 but offers electric starter, auto choke and a CVT transmission (just like the full size Skyhawk 50). It also has front and rear suspension and full floor boards. I have one as a pit bike that really moves. At Pizmo, I can haul my 200 pound rear just about anywhere.
Here you go:
1. Remove the exhaust from the cylinder and eliminate the washer that reduces exhaust flow. You will now experience more top speed.
2. Remove the stock air filter and install a K&N or Uni 2 stage foam pod. This requires that you get an air filter adapter. I use my own adapter but you can also get the filter adapter used on the Go-Peds. It will work just fine but use should use some red thread lock on the two screws (if they back off, they will go into the motor).
3. Pull the intake manifold and remove the hardened steel slotted restrictor. I heat the manifold and then place a large screw driver in the slot and turn -- The screw driver was kept in the freezer so that it would draw the heat out of the steel restrictor. Once you get it out, you can back fill the void with JB Weld and then remake the hole so that there is no transition. It is very easy.
4. Pull the carb. Remove the slide cover and eliminate the brass sleeve located between the slide and the slide cover. Next, raise the needle one clip position (make the needle higher). While you are there, pull the float bowl and locate the pilot jet. Remove it. You will see that there is a second pilot jet located just behind the one you removed. Leave that one alone -- it is the correct size for the unrestricted engine. NOTE: On occasion, the fuel needle and seat is too small. If you are skilled at jet work, you can attempt to drill it and hone a new seat for the needle. This may only be necessary if you cannot get full throttle to hit without falling off within 15 feet.
5. Oil injection. Remove it if you want. Your engine will be alot happier. At a minimum, you can reduce the rate of oil.
6. Clutch. This is slightly more involved but can be done. Simply increase the spring tension on the clutches. If your clutch is old, just buy a new one and modify it before installation.
7. Exhaust baffle. Remove it and cut the last 3" off. That will eliminate the spark arrestor function so drive safely. I braze a down turn on the exhaust tip just to direct the exhaust away from the plastic and to direct the noise into the ground. I hear a couple of people have made pipes for this machine by why???
8. So you want more power ---- Pull the cylinder. Raise the cylinder so that the transfer ports are fully open when the piston is at BDC. Then correct the squish by decking the cylinder to achieve a .030" squish. I forgot the head cc number I use so just go with a static compression number of 160. Watch the jetting and the spark plug heat range. That B6 is a burner!
Now, after you consider all of this work realize that for about a grand, you could have had a Kasea super mini 50. It is the same size as the LT50 but offers electric starter, auto choke and a CVT transmission (just like the full size Skyhawk 50). It also has front and rear suspension and full floor boards. I have one as a pit bike that really moves. At Pizmo, I can haul my 200 pound rear just about anywhere.
#4
thanks for the info!!! i have the 03 50 it has full susp. and full floorboards i weigh in at around 260 it hauls me fine even up steep hills!! all i have done is remove the exhaust restrictor. again thanks for the info!!!
#5
I know xbox74...When did you ever go up steep hills on that machine? Oh yeah your driveway is not considered a steep hill.The fact is that bike does not have what the other mini quads have out the box... it's that simple. After a while of researching the mini's and getting info from people like Raptor720 and others on another site and reading everything i could get my hands on there is no comparrison to the lt50 and the kasea(though i do prefer the looks of the Eton Vipers)skyhawk 50. I don't think you realized what you just said in your last resposne to Raptor720 you said" That it can pull your 260pd butt up a steep hill" if it can do that you do not need anymore power. That thing must haul some serious butt on a flat track HMMMMMMMM... Just my own opinion.
Rhonda
P.S.
When did you get married? And does she know your married? How does she like her banshee? Glad to her they are going to fix "her" CBR!!! Just wondering why we weren't invited?
Rhonda
P.S.
When did you get married? And does she know your married? How does she like her banshee? Glad to her they are going to fix "her" CBR!!! Just wondering why we weren't invited?
#7
hi raptor720,
i've got an 83 suzuki alt50 (3 wheeler). i wish i had a kasea 50 but i had the bike given to me and it seems to have all the items listed done. but maybe the older bikes were less restrictive to start with. at any rate,
my exhaust has the washer restrictor removed, baffle and cap removed but the tail pipe is not cut 3" off.
my air cleaner has the back plate off with a uni foam insert and a womans' nylon covering it.
my carburetor manifold has the keyhole restrictor removed, the 2nd top pilot jet removed, and a 70mm main jet installed, and needle slide clears the flow opening completely
the automatic oil injector tank and hoses have been removed and i capped off the crank case inlet
the petcock is as clean as the carburetor and connected by a hose to the cylinder side of carb manifold
i'm running 40 to 1 mixture racing gas
i did not eliminate the brass sleeve located in the carb between the slide and the slide cover and raise the needle one clip position to make the needle higher. because all that was there was a spring and zig zag shaped clip (and carb slide cleared already).
the bike starts but only if the choke is on, and throttle adj screw way out so that it revs really high but dies when i give it gas or take off the choke. i was able to hold up the rear wheels and it would accept more gas but only with the choke on. but its running really shabby.
i'd like my kid to be able to ride the thing too. i know, i know, what do i expect for free, right?
i noticed the main jet has a small section of tube (1/8" or so long) on it and the float is positioned in such a way so as to hit this at some point on its travel. maybe i put it (the float) back on the wrong side?
or is the nylon covered open air filter too much?
or is the 70mm main jet too much (stock was 57.5)?
or is the needle not installed back correctly?
or maybe something else? (i.e. unseen crud in the carb or petcock-2 strokes are so touchy when it comes to air/gas mixture)
can you help?
i've got an 83 suzuki alt50 (3 wheeler). i wish i had a kasea 50 but i had the bike given to me and it seems to have all the items listed done. but maybe the older bikes were less restrictive to start with. at any rate,
my exhaust has the washer restrictor removed, baffle and cap removed but the tail pipe is not cut 3" off.
my air cleaner has the back plate off with a uni foam insert and a womans' nylon covering it.
my carburetor manifold has the keyhole restrictor removed, the 2nd top pilot jet removed, and a 70mm main jet installed, and needle slide clears the flow opening completely
the automatic oil injector tank and hoses have been removed and i capped off the crank case inlet
the petcock is as clean as the carburetor and connected by a hose to the cylinder side of carb manifold
i'm running 40 to 1 mixture racing gas
i did not eliminate the brass sleeve located in the carb between the slide and the slide cover and raise the needle one clip position to make the needle higher. because all that was there was a spring and zig zag shaped clip (and carb slide cleared already).
the bike starts but only if the choke is on, and throttle adj screw way out so that it revs really high but dies when i give it gas or take off the choke. i was able to hold up the rear wheels and it would accept more gas but only with the choke on. but its running really shabby.
i'd like my kid to be able to ride the thing too. i know, i know, what do i expect for free, right?
i noticed the main jet has a small section of tube (1/8" or so long) on it and the float is positioned in such a way so as to hit this at some point on its travel. maybe i put it (the float) back on the wrong side?
or is the nylon covered open air filter too much?
or is the 70mm main jet too much (stock was 57.5)?
or is the needle not installed back correctly?
or maybe something else? (i.e. unseen crud in the carb or petcock-2 strokes are so touchy when it comes to air/gas mixture)
can you help?
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#8
My `03 doesn't have the stacked jet or a slide restrictor in the carb. I am refraining from removing the intake restrictor until I can get a larger jet. The stock jet is a #55. Someone on one of the forums reported good results with a #70 with the restrictors removed and an aftermarket air filter. The latest Dennis Kirk catalog I just got lists a replacement foam filter for the `03. I believe it is a Uni filter but I'm not sure. I will have to check when I get home tomorrow.
Be careful removing the spark arrestor on any quad if you ride in fire prone areas. You can be held responsible if a fire breaks out in the area you are riding in. Even if you didn't start it you may have a tough time proving otherwise.
I bought my LT50 for my four year old because it was the perfect size for him. I tried letting him ride my six year old's Xtreme 90 but he was having a tough time with the full size controls. I would have considered the Kasea, but the nearest dealer at the time was over an hour away. The other thing I'm noticing in my area is that many of these Tawainese quad dealers will sell them for a year or two and then drop them for one reason or the other. The dealer I bought the Xtreme from is no longer stocking them, but supposedly they can still get me parts. The local Suzuki dealer has been around for 20+ years and there are a couple others not too far away, so parts and service won't be and issue.
Be careful removing the spark arrestor on any quad if you ride in fire prone areas. You can be held responsible if a fire breaks out in the area you are riding in. Even if you didn't start it you may have a tough time proving otherwise.
I bought my LT50 for my four year old because it was the perfect size for him. I tried letting him ride my six year old's Xtreme 90 but he was having a tough time with the full size controls. I would have considered the Kasea, but the nearest dealer at the time was over an hour away. The other thing I'm noticing in my area is that many of these Tawainese quad dealers will sell them for a year or two and then drop them for one reason or the other. The dealer I bought the Xtreme from is no longer stocking them, but supposedly they can still get me parts. The local Suzuki dealer has been around for 20+ years and there are a couple others not too far away, so parts and service won't be and issue.
#9
make sure your pilot jet is not plugged. It is so small that a tiny piece of debris will cause you great problems.
As for the hard starting, I would insure the float level is correct, confirm that the piston rings are good, confirm that the there are no air leaks in the engine and make sure the head gasket is sealing.
As for the hard starting, I would insure the float level is correct, confirm that the piston rings are good, confirm that the there are no air leaks in the engine and make sure the head gasket is sealing.
#10
For any one thats interested, the filter listed in the Dennis Kirk catalog is made by Twin Air. It is supposed to be a two stage type foam filter. They don't show a picture tho. The part # is 30-4007 and it lists for $13.99.
{Update}
I took a chance and ordered one of these online. Turns out is is a replacement element for the stock airbox. They do give you two for the price, and look to be more free flowing than the stock element.
{Update}
I took a chance and ordered one of these online. Turns out is is a replacement element for the stock airbox. They do give you two for the price, and look to be more free flowing than the stock element.


