I've got a little problem with my cannibal. I just rebuilt my motor and had it running fine. I had to replace the radiator because of a hole but when I put it back in my fuel pump no longer worked. I've the currents and it has a good ground but there is no power in the positive cable. The battery is a dry cell with full charge so that's not the problem. I tried to follow the cable through the wiring harness but I lost it into a large inclosed cable. Does anyone have any idea what I should be looking for or what other tests I should do to try to find my problem/short. If anyone can help I would really appreciate it

 

You will get 60000 times more responses if you ask that question at either Cannondaler or Cannondaleriders - not many of us frequent here I just come to send people to the right place [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]

 

I think you might not like this but if you grounded out the fuelpump you may have fried your ecu.The fuel pump is hot on both the neg.and pos.terminals the ecu is the ground.I have seen this happen in an instant.Always disconnect batt + when doing anything to fuel pump.Your best bet for testing is to download the EFI & Electrical manual from the sites mentioned.It is possible sometimes to reload the HEX code and save the ECU you would need the D&M tool for that.

 

There is a 20 amp fuse going to the fuel pump. The pump gets 12volts all the time and the computer grounds the circuit to turn it on. If you touch either fuel pump terminal to ground it will blow the fuse. The fuse should be under the left headlight next to the diagnostic connector. Check for power to the fuse and if it doesnt you may have disconnected one of the leads off the starter soleniod. I dont see how shorting the fuel pump circit would fry the ecu unless it just overloads the nonreplacable transistor in the ecu. If the computer is still functioning then you could just run the fuel pump on a switch instead of buying a new ecm.

 

Wistech that fuse will not protect the ecu from frying if the pump terminal is shorted to ground and the circuit that is fried does more than just run the pump.Fryed computers wont accept any data and will not run the quad even with fuel pressure.There was an update from Cannondale instructing to put a rubber boot over the neg terminal of pump and encase the wires leading to pump with shrink tubing to prevent chafing.I have personally seen this happen at the tech school when testing with a test light that inadvertantly got between the neg post of pump and the case of the pump.Normally what will happen is the fuel pump will run constantly even with the key off.

 

27 Is there an explanation on how it could "fry" the ecm. Is it a voltage spike corrupting the hex code or a electrical part failure.? I see that the whole system is powered by the 20 amp fuse but a short in the fuel pump part of the circuit should not have any amperage running through the ecm should it. And why would they run dual wires to the splice sp6. Ive seen this on some of our electronic diesels where the ecm has 2 power and 2 ground leads to the battery. Any ideas?

Didnt someone else have this same problem and hooked up a separate fuel pump switch to get it running?

 

It is an actual part failure caused by a spike to the ecu most of the time.If not the HEX can be reloaded.When you first turn the quad on the pump will run then shut off this is controlled by the ECU.It is a safety feature that shouldnt be bypassed since if motor would shut off with key on the pump would continue to run.The guys who have used a relay are attempting to isolate the pump from the ECU to PREVENT shorting at the pump but they are still using the circuit to turn on the relay or should be for safety reasons.At the tech school when the ECU was fried the pump ran continuosly even with the key off.The only way to fix this was to replace the ECU.We did a experiment on the new one since fan circuit is also controlled by ECU we shorted that nothing happened at all which lead us to believe that the circuit running the fuel pump must be weaker we asked for the HEX code to be changed to reroute pump to stronger circuit.Never happened.There are guys attempting to locate the fried part within the ECU without success so far.Best bet is to check wires to pump for chafing,put shrinktubing on them and a rubber boot over the terminals glued on with silicone and if ever testing be very careful or better yet disconnect battery and wires to pump then put power to pump if it runs and has the pressure specified it is good.Here is a link to the experts on this problem. Fried ECU

 

Yes its not good to have the pump running without the engine. An oil pressure switch would be ideal if one could find a place to tap into. I was going to install a relay in the fan circuit that cuts off power to the fan when the engine is not running because without the water pump turning its not really doing anything but draining the battery until the ecm powers down. Did you ever notice that the relay under the air filter is not even sealed. Its got grease smeared all over the wire terminals. I guess the engineers didnt think water would ever get into the airbox. Oops of topic .sorry Hey wheres draggincannibal

 

OK, I've check everything for chafing. Nothing. I turn the key, nothing. I replaced the fuse. I reset with the kill switch, the ecm clicks back on but still nothing. The motor will turn over but still nothing. I followed the two red wires from my battery (they do have power) to this bundle of crap which I'm guessing is SP6. The hot wire for the pump is taped to the hot wires from the battery but they all go into this bundle that I don't really want to cut open. My guess is that when I reinstalled my radiator I pulled the hot wire out of its splice. I don't know if you have the wiring map for a sagem 500, I have a map for a 1000 and I'm trying to use that so I get a little lost with wiring color. IF you do maybe you'll see something I don't. Well, back to you guys, anything?

 

You could try just hotwiring the fuel pump to see if the ecm will start the engine. Disconnect both small leads and run the fuel pump with some jumper wires to the battery. At least it will tell you that the fuel pump works. Just make sure to get the polarity right on the pump or it will run backwards. If you just changed the radiator did you even mess with the wiring other than disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery? There was one guy who stuck his battery in backwards and had similar problems(long shot) I dont know if I have the wiring scematics for the 500 but I will check.