Just finished it up this weekend. 3 weeks before H/S events start in Ohio. Now all I need is some seat time. Being I'am almost 50 I have been working out and hard ***** to the wall trail riding all winter long. Well this is what I did to it.
1)GP1000 with moto map set at 12500RPM limit and hand picked flowed injectors.
2)Hiper carbon fiber wheels (all4) with holeshots fronts and mudshark rears.
3)Garydon proline nurfs.
4)Tag-pro bars with twist and Enduro bursh guards.
5)PRM 120s plates on A arm, swing arm and frame.
6)45T Sprocket Specialists.
7)Set of 160 front Olins springs, Scotts stabalizer and shockwears.

I will let you know the set up works in a few weeks.




RACERJIM

 

RACERJIM,

Sounds like you are ready to race! Do you have any pictures of this beast?
Just a voice of caution, did you set the rev limter to 12,500? The moto map has the rev limit set at 11,500 (it actually starts cutting fuel around 11,000 rpm with the max cutoff at 11,500). If you set it to 12,500 I would be prepared for a short lived engine. The valves float above 12,000 rpm with the stock valves, springs, retainers etc....

 

Yes we set it 12500. The vales don't float at 12000, but power sharpley drops off at a little over 12000. To keep mommentem never hit the limiter. The best hp/tq point is about 10500, but it stills pulls ok to almost 12000 so I use that 1500rpm for when I don't want to up shift because I will be slowing down.


RACERJIM

 

Any pics? I could post them on my website for ya! Let me know!

 

RACERJIM, Is the Scotts damper ready to bolt on or did you adapt it to your FX? I would like to put a Scott's on mine.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

RACERJIM,

Are you using the stock valve seats, and valve train? Did you happen to put the valve-train on a spintron, or did you just dyno it. I have seen spintron plots to around 12,600 (can't remember the exact RPM) and you are right about the power drop off but I'll stick my neck out here (I really am not trying to offend you I'm sure you've done your homework) and say the power drop off is because of valve float. I don't want to step on your toes I'm just giving out info. Let us know how everything goes!

 

RacerJim, which cdale did you start with and how did you go about getting "hand picked flowed injectors"?

 

I by no means consider myself a mechanic, but I was thinking the same thing about the power drop off. Is it because the valves are floating. Also I mean no harm but here is my thinking, You could ride aroung (say an oval track) at 12,000 RPM's the whole way around lap after lap, but wouldnt you get around quicker if you pulled a higher gear and let the RPMs drop?

 

From my understanding, the new models all have mounting tabs welded the steering stems. The old fx's don't. So Scotts makes a bolt on kit for there dampner, so no welding is needed. I seen both dampners, the Scotts and the factory Olins on the Blaze and they are made by the same company. The only differens is the color. So if you have the fx you have to weld tabs or pay $85 for the kit. But the dampner it self I would say, who ever gives you the best deal.



RACERJIM

 

Ok let me see if I can explane this right. Power drop off is not just valve float, there is many factors that come in to play or just even onething that can do it. A short list of things, cam profile, head design, fuel flow, can limit your hp@rpm. CdaleRacer I look at the shifting question as this. I'am coming up to a turn in about 20feet. The motor is already at 10500 in 2nd. Pull a gear up? Or push a few rpm's? See who will be a head after the turn. I call it useable rpm range, but not the best. After a hour of a h/s race the less you do the better off you are. By the way my shop flows injectors, carbs, manifolds and heads.


RACERJIM