I'm still here
May 26, 2002 | 01:33 PM
#1
Thread Starter
|
Range Rover
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
Hey,
I haven't been posting too much lately. If anyone remembers I got my Cannibal sometime back around February I think.
I do still read the post here at least every couple of days though so I can keep myself updated.
I have a few questions for you guys and also some comments as well.
Questions:
1: Has anyone installed longer a-arms on the Cannondale yet. I should be receiving my set of American Star 2+1 arms in about a week. Need to know if longer brake lines will be needed. Also if anyone has installed aftermarket a-arms, how do you like them?
2: Has anyone installed a kill switch from a Moto/Blaze on their Cannibal? I thought it was supposed to just plug in to the harness but I couldn't find any matching colors that the kill switch had. So I just removed the on/off switch on the bars and used those wires to connect my kill switch to. Anybody have any better ideas?
3: Has anyone installed an aftermarket seat latch? This thing is weird. My seat pan has two fingers that go through the black frame bushings to keep the seat from going left and right, along with the threaded hole in the middle that the big **** screws into. This seat latch replaces those two fingers with aluminum rods that are threaded on the ends in which two black ***** screw onto. What I can't figure out is how to properly attach the bracket to the seat pan.
Comments:
If you ever buy a set of AC racing pro-peg nerfs make sure you have a big hammer to install them with. The metal post that mounts to the frame where the footpeg sat, doesn't line up with the nerf bars just right. What I did do make it a little easier was to stick the nerf bars in the hole in the front of the frame and kinda pull outward on the bars to bend them a little. This made it a little easier to install them, but I still had to beat them in place.
I have had a couple of problems with my Cannondale but have resolved them.
A wierd problem I had was right after my first oil change. I mean like one minute after my first oil change. I started the machine and clouds of blue smoke started pouring out of the exhaust. I couldn't figure it out. I had done the oid change right by the book. So anyway me and my dealer are good friends. I told him what happened and I told him that I thought the valve seals had gone bad, but couldn't explain why. So anyway he got me some valve seals and I disassembled the cylinder head and installed the new seals. That cured the problem.
Another problem I had was with stalling. My machine has a Big Gun exhaust. After we insatalled the exhaust we remapped the ECU. I started having stalling problems. So what we did to cure it was to reset the throttle positions with the Dealer Cal program. This was after I had done all of the things on the normal checklist, fuel filter, chain slack, reroute fuel line. Plus I had just installed the new hex code that is mention in service bulletin 008.
One last thing, if any of you ever get the chance to look inside the cylinder head take a look at the exhaust ports. I thought to myself eeeeewwwww. So I did a little modifying while I was in there and man is my motor strong. Especially when it hits midrange.
I haven't been posting too much lately. If anyone remembers I got my Cannibal sometime back around February I think.
I do still read the post here at least every couple of days though so I can keep myself updated.
I have a few questions for you guys and also some comments as well.
Questions:
1: Has anyone installed longer a-arms on the Cannondale yet. I should be receiving my set of American Star 2+1 arms in about a week. Need to know if longer brake lines will be needed. Also if anyone has installed aftermarket a-arms, how do you like them?
2: Has anyone installed a kill switch from a Moto/Blaze on their Cannibal? I thought it was supposed to just plug in to the harness but I couldn't find any matching colors that the kill switch had. So I just removed the on/off switch on the bars and used those wires to connect my kill switch to. Anybody have any better ideas?
3: Has anyone installed an aftermarket seat latch? This thing is weird. My seat pan has two fingers that go through the black frame bushings to keep the seat from going left and right, along with the threaded hole in the middle that the big **** screws into. This seat latch replaces those two fingers with aluminum rods that are threaded on the ends in which two black ***** screw onto. What I can't figure out is how to properly attach the bracket to the seat pan.
Comments:
If you ever buy a set of AC racing pro-peg nerfs make sure you have a big hammer to install them with. The metal post that mounts to the frame where the footpeg sat, doesn't line up with the nerf bars just right. What I did do make it a little easier was to stick the nerf bars in the hole in the front of the frame and kinda pull outward on the bars to bend them a little. This made it a little easier to install them, but I still had to beat them in place.
I have had a couple of problems with my Cannondale but have resolved them.
A wierd problem I had was right after my first oil change. I mean like one minute after my first oil change. I started the machine and clouds of blue smoke started pouring out of the exhaust. I couldn't figure it out. I had done the oid change right by the book. So anyway me and my dealer are good friends. I told him what happened and I told him that I thought the valve seals had gone bad, but couldn't explain why. So anyway he got me some valve seals and I disassembled the cylinder head and installed the new seals. That cured the problem.
Another problem I had was with stalling. My machine has a Big Gun exhaust. After we insatalled the exhaust we remapped the ECU. I started having stalling problems. So what we did to cure it was to reset the throttle positions with the Dealer Cal program. This was after I had done all of the things on the normal checklist, fuel filter, chain slack, reroute fuel line. Plus I had just installed the new hex code that is mention in service bulletin 008.
One last thing, if any of you ever get the chance to look inside the cylinder head take a look at the exhaust ports. I thought to myself eeeeewwwww. So I did a little modifying while I was in there and man is my motor strong. Especially when it hits midrange.
May 26, 2002 | 02:39 PM
#2
Pro Rider
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,407
Likes: 0
Brad.
1. You will probably need the longer Front Brake lines. The motos are for a 50" so that would get you some quick, or any of the aftermarket ones.
2. For the kill switch there should be bullet connectors and than put it in line.
3. Seat Latch, I have no idea. ALaska bought the same thing so wait or ask him.
I know what you mean about the AC nerfs. Glad I didn't get the propegs.
Mine still smokes so after this trip to Glamis it's off to the shop. They can port it while it's there.
Later
Smitty
1. You will probably need the longer Front Brake lines. The motos are for a 50" so that would get you some quick, or any of the aftermarket ones.
2. For the kill switch there should be bullet connectors and than put it in line.
3. Seat Latch, I have no idea. ALaska bought the same thing so wait or ask him.
I know what you mean about the AC nerfs. Glad I didn't get the propegs.
Mine still smokes so after this trip to Glamis it's off to the shop. They can port it while it's there.
Later
Smitty
May 26, 2002 | 05:54 PM
#3
Pro Rider
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
Brad,
The seat latch replacement is like a 10 minute job, super easy. First, cut those two posts that are on the seat pan; then drill out the flat areas left after you cut the plastic posts off. Then, you pull out just enough staples from your seat cover to slip in the new seat latch. The aluminum posts come through the holes you drlled after cutting those plastic posts off. Re-staple your seat cover on and you are done. The little knurled rubber screw on retainers do a much better job in my opinion and don't vibrate off. Any more questions, just ask.......JIM
The seat latch replacement is like a 10 minute job, super easy. First, cut those two posts that are on the seat pan; then drill out the flat areas left after you cut the plastic posts off. Then, you pull out just enough staples from your seat cover to slip in the new seat latch. The aluminum posts come through the holes you drlled after cutting those plastic posts off. Re-staple your seat cover on and you are done. The little knurled rubber screw on retainers do a much better job in my opinion and don't vibrate off. Any more questions, just ask.......JIM