Today I was browsing around the oil looking for a good synthetic. I can not get Mobil 1 or any of them brands the talk about on here because of the small town that I am in. I found penzoil 5W-50. That was the only thing I could find other than 10W-30 which is to light. This oil was called higher performace 100% sythetic which said Protects higher than any of the oil standards. I was just a little consernerd about the Range of the oil considering it ranges from 5 -50 which most oils only go from 10-30 would this oil be to thin to use.

 

BigmanM, I've been using Castrol Syntec 5w-50 in my '99 Polaris Sportsman 335 for 500 miles so far with no problems. It will give you that extra protection in the summer heat and is good for cold weather riding also. -Glen

 

I don't like oils with that high of a spread. They must make use of a lot of viscosity index improvers which will allow the oil to break down to a very light 5w base stock.

Also Castrol Syntec (even the stuff touted as "full synthetic") is not a "True" synthetic. It is a level 3 hydrocracked mineral oil. Level 4 PAO oils are technically superior: Mobil 1, AMSOil. There are also level 5 ester based oils such as Redline.

The Hydrocracked mineral oil base stock used in Syntec costs about half what the PAO in Mobil 1 costs, so why is Syntec the same price as Mobil 1? Because it can technically say "Full synthetic" and people don't know the difference.

As far as the Pennzoil you reference, I'm not sure what base stock it uses. Further research would be necessary.

 

Just a question on motor oils. Most people say to run a non synthetic oil in 4 stroke motors. The oil they sell at the local pep boys most of them are designed for automobiles and have detergents and oil additives that can destroy the internals. A car motor runs on oil but do u pour regular oil in you transmission. I didnt think so. Was just a thought. I run straight 20-50 in a punched out 300ex and dump the oil after every ride. Those repairs can be costly

 

Gabe, I agree with you. I realize Castrol Syntec is a hydrocracked oil and technically not a full synthetic, but I could not find Mobil 1 0w-40 anywhere by me. Polaris recommends 0w-40 synthetic oil for my quad, and I wasn't paying $8.50 a quart for Polaris Gold oil. For that price I would run Red Line, but only one place sells it in my area. The Castrol Syntec is about $1.50 cheaper than Mobil 1 by me, that's why I decided to use it for the first oil change. The difference between 0w-40 and 5w-50 oil seems neglible to me. Just my 2 cents. -Glen

 

4 stroke motorcycle transmissions were obviously designed to share the lubricant with the engine. While most automotive engines were not. The automotive engines that do, however, use regular old automotive oil (some Honda's, I believe).

Detergents and additives that can destroy internals??? Like what? Motorcycle oils contain the same additives, but also contain some snake oil that protects against "shearing" better (at least according to the marketing dept).

Motorcycle oils are marketing. I have used automotive oils in my bikes for 20 years. I have never experienced the destruction of internals you mention. My 400EX is currently filled with Mobil 1 15w50, it is raced and ridden very hard, no problems. There are several tests on the web various organizations have run that show that many automotive oils perform better than most high dollar "motorcycle" oils. Honda, Polaris, etc... don't make oils, they just buy it from elsewhere, repackage it, mark it up, and sell it to whomever will buy it.

 

The only problem I have with Syntec is that around here (last time I looked anyway) it cost the same as the "better" oils. Syntec is certainly better than conventional oil, and if it can be had at a less price than the level 4 oils, is probably a good deal.

There should be an AMSoil rep nearby, have you checked for one? I don't know if they offer the weight you are looking for, but worth a try.

 

I have a TC National Motor with about $2700 in work done to the motor. It is a 300ex redone to 405cc. Tom said never to run synthetic oil in this type of motor. He said to run straight 20 50 and dump the oil after every ride. I also just had a top end overhaul on a Honda 250x the dealer who built the motor said never to run synthetic oil in a 4 stroke atv/dirtbike motor. I also have a friend who works as a repair tech at a local atv shop he also said not to run synthetic oil in these motors.
Can some tell me why you should not run synthetic oil. The one guy said to run straight oil for that fact that the clutch plates use the same oil as the motor does and will allow for slipping of the clutch if you use a synthetics oil.

 

We put a cam in a 400ex the other day and the directions said not to run synthetic oil. The reason that they gave, was that the synthetic oil does not stick to the cam. Causing it not to be lubed. I guess that the oil is so good or slippery that it will not stick to the cam. This is what the directions said.

 

A link to some Synthetic oil:

www.amsoil.com