Anyone use their 15w50 100% synthetic motorcycle oil? If it's synthetic, wouldn't it be not the best for manual clutches?

 

I was just in my local parts shop today picking up a new front sprocket for my Warrior, and asked the same question about the Maxima synthetic oil. I was told that I'd see a big improvement in shifting when using synthetic, but my parts guy suggested I wait until everything is good and broken in before switching over--like another 6 months or another 500 hours. I kinda assumed everything was as broken in as it was gonna get after having it for 4 months, but I guess I'll take his advice and wait a little longer. I think I'll wait to see what everyone else here has to say also...

 

Will synthetic oil cause clutch slippage?

The issue should be the same whether manual or "automatic" clutch, I think; if both work in an oil bath (are "wet" clutches).

The main cause of clutch slippage is glazing of the fiber plates (and/or shoes, where a centrifugal primary clutch is involved).

With porous, high-friction fiber surfaces, many clutches work o.k. with synthetics; each combination (oil & ATV) must be evaluated separately.

Now, do cam lobes wear excessively with some synthetic oils?

Tree Farmer

 

The age old question - which oil to use.

I've tried just about every type of oil that is available. Petroleum based, semi-synthetic, synthetic, high performance gear oils, etc. Each type has made differences in the way the tranny felt, but none were obviously better than the others. My conclusion is that regular old 10w-40 is fine and is what I've settled on. Why? Because it does the job properly, gives nice shifting and lubrication, and since I change the tranny oil about every third ride, it doesn't cost so much that I feel like I'm wasting money. I really believe that the $5 - $8 per quart oils are a total waste for the average rider. Most manufacturers recommend standard 10w-30 or 10w-40 because they know it does the job and is readily available. I would guess that the reason some shops recommend the more expensive oils is so that you'll put more money in their pockets (which is understandable, since they are in business to make money), rather than have you go to Pep Boys and buy something that works fine for $1.25 a quart. This is all primarily for 2 stroke trannies though. For 4 strokes, I settled on Mobil 1. I know that it provides better lubrication and does not break down as quickly, not to mention that it's about $3.75 a quart.

 

I tried the high dollar stuff once before and could not keep the clutch from slipping. Switched back to castrol 20W-50 and have not every had a clutch problem with my race bikes. Actually, I have managed to get up to five years out of some of the clutches. Why fix what isn't broken and waste a lot of money doing it.

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1998 Roll Design 250R 1999 Roll Design 250R IC Racing