I would also like to know does it take away from your top speed at all

 

The degree key is easy too do. Vitos is where I bought my last one at. The key and puller for the flywheel is around $40. The key sits in the crank and has a notch in it allowing the flywheel too turn counterclockwise an additional number of degrees changing the timing. Most guys get the standard key. The drag key is not for extended high rpm riding. My borther has a drag key in his mild Banshee is the results were very surprising before and after. This Shee is used for trail riding. We will on occasion race 8-10 times (before cooling off) through an area at least 200 yards long with no problems. You will not loose top speed.....that narrow powerband you have now will be wider and you will have more overrev. It will not hit and sign off like it does now. My $.02

 

what do you mean it wont hit and sign off like it does now

 

WHen the mid range power snaps in (this is the hit or some call it the powerband) it will hit harder and pull longer before you need too shift too the next gear. With the drag key it does anyway....the standard key I am not sure. Guys post that they like them as well. The drag key is supposed too generate more heat when WFO so thats why no-one recommends extended high speed operation. Another bit of info is too get the rear brake lever off of the side case....it will eventually wear through...trust me.

 

sorry for asking so many questions but what do you mean it will eventually wear through how will it wear and where will it wear through and how and where do i move it

 

Take a good look at the rear brake lever. If it is rubbing (is common on a shee) it will rub and eventually make a hole in the side case. Of course you will not know about it until something fails in the gearbox. All you have too do is pull the lever out towards you maybe an inch. No problem on the questions...I don't mind helping.

 

ok thanks for the all help and my last question what type of degree key would you recommend

 

Forget the degree key. Take the fly wheel off and take the stock timeing plate off. Get out a dremmel and cut the three bolt holes 4mm to the left. Each mm is 1 degree then just bolt it back on with it turned to the new grinds. (Free) Then get your stock head milled .30 about ($40). You can port your stock reed cages for free. New reeds like $50 i think. Get rid of air box lid. Screw the stock filter holder to the air box and use it to hold a K&N $40. You can even get at home port kits there not that difficult from what I've herd. Fly wheel lightened $65.

 

he is talking about the parking brake you know the one that never has worked since you have had your bike but is on there for some reason. It has a loop that on the side case that is supposed to hold it up away from your case but it really needs two of them to do the job right.

 

those are alright mods and yes they are cheap, but sometime going the cheap rout does get you into trouble. I am all about the do it your selfer out there, but i don't know about cutting on your stator plate. I guess you have nothing to lose, but you might have problems setting it back to factory if you have a problem. The air box lid can come off, but it really depends on your riding to me. If i were in sand i would cut it of and get and outerwear and cut it also and mount it down on the air hole you make with some strips of metal and some screws you get a lot more air and it still does some filtering. Porting the reed cages can help, but if you don't know what your doing it can also hurt things a lot. It better to have someone that knows what they are doing when it comes to porting because it is really the cam of a 2-stroke.