CHANGING OIL ??
#1
I HAVE NEVER TRIED TO CHANGE MY OIL MYSELF AND I AM WONDERING WHERE I SHOULD START. WERE IS THE OIL FILTER LOCATED? ANY SUGESTIONS ON WHAT OIL TO USE? I RIDE ALL YEAR ROUND. SORT OF LIKE THE MAIL RAIN, SLEET, SNOW, & DEAD OF NIGHT.
I GUESS I SHOULD LET YOU KNOW I HAVE A 99 WARRIOR.
THANKS IN ADVANCE,
STEVE
I GUESS I SHOULD LET YOU KNOW I HAVE A 99 WARRIOR.
THANKS IN ADVANCE,
STEVE
#2
First of all, please lose the caps..it looks like you're shouting at us.
I have used Pennzoil 10w/40 for many years in all my quads & bikes with no problems.
Some prefer synthetic oils but I prefer petroleum -based ones myself.
A word of caution when removing the drain plug: the plug is made of very soft pot metal & the flats can be stripped easily with an ill- fitting wrench. Use a 19mm socket to loosen it.
The oil filter is located on the left side just in front and slightly below the c/s sprocket. The cover has three 8mm bolts. drain the oil before removing the filter cover. Be sure to replace the filter the same way you took it out.
I have used Pennzoil 10w/40 for many years in all my quads & bikes with no problems.
Some prefer synthetic oils but I prefer petroleum -based ones myself.
A word of caution when removing the drain plug: the plug is made of very soft pot metal & the flats can be stripped easily with an ill- fitting wrench. Use a 19mm socket to loosen it.
The oil filter is located on the left side just in front and slightly below the c/s sprocket. The cover has three 8mm bolts. drain the oil before removing the filter cover. Be sure to replace the filter the same way you took it out.
#4
I don't like warming the enigine up first because all of the oil can be up in the head, in the oil galleries, all the bearings, on the gears in the tranny. And if you don't warm it enough it'll drizzel for an hour. Also, if you warm it to much, you can burn your self. I usually pull the plug early in the morning, and let it drain for at least 20 minutes to a half hour. I also swear by Castrol- Syntech Blend 20W-50.
#5
Your oil filter is located on the right side of the bike. Near the bottom of the motor you will see two lines going to your oil cooler. These are very hard to get off at times and be sure you use metric allen wrenches. Your oil filter is reusable, just clean it with a little **** and let it dry before reinstalling. If any of the wire is damaged buy a new one. They cost about twelve bucks.
edited by atvbbs: atvbbs does not condone the use of gasoline for any cleaning purposes for obvious reasons. Also, the oil filter on a Warrior is located on the left side of the machine from the operator's position.
edited by atvbbs: atvbbs does not condone the use of gasoline for any cleaning purposes for obvious reasons. Also, the oil filter on a Warrior is located on the left side of the machine from the operator's position.
#6
Steve,
It's a peice of cake. Some Pointers:
Be careful not to strip the drain plug. The bolt head is very shallow and aluminum. They cost about $12 each: I have bought 3 already.
Definately, absolutley warm up the engine first(not real hot, just run it a few minutes). 2 Reasons; it will drain quicker and any metal shavings/particles will be better suspended in the oil. Don't worry about the few drops that stay up in the head???!!!???
I personally prefer full synthetic. It costs more but I like the insurance if don't get to the next change right on time. Synthetic is far superior to high temp breakdown resistance.
The manual says to loosen up the bolt near the head after an oil change to be sure the oil is flowing but I have never done that, up to you.
The filter is re-usable, clean and be sure you pay attention to how it came out.
Don't go nuts tightening the bolts back up.... They are mostly all in aluminum and will strip the threads.
By the way, there is no oil cooler as sup440 suggested.
It's a peice of cake. Some Pointers:
Be careful not to strip the drain plug. The bolt head is very shallow and aluminum. They cost about $12 each: I have bought 3 already.
Definately, absolutley warm up the engine first(not real hot, just run it a few minutes). 2 Reasons; it will drain quicker and any metal shavings/particles will be better suspended in the oil. Don't worry about the few drops that stay up in the head???!!!???
I personally prefer full synthetic. It costs more but I like the insurance if don't get to the next change right on time. Synthetic is far superior to high temp breakdown resistance.
The manual says to loosen up the bolt near the head after an oil change to be sure the oil is flowing but I have never done that, up to you.
The filter is re-usable, clean and be sure you pay attention to how it came out.
Don't go nuts tightening the bolts back up.... They are mostly all in aluminum and will strip the threads.
By the way, there is no oil cooler as sup440 suggested.
#7
wyorider,
What kind of synthetic do you use? I use nothing but synthetic in my truck, Mobil 1. Should I switch to another brand for the quad? What about Redline oils?
What kind of synthetic do you use? I use nothing but synthetic in my truck, Mobil 1. Should I switch to another brand for the quad? What about Redline oils?
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#8
Well, I use Mobil 1 in everything I own and can't complain so far... Well, not in the Basnhee; in everything that is a fourstroke. I honestly don't know about the redline or race type oils. Motor oil is probably one of the most debated subjects around. One guy can use K-Mart oil in his vehicle for 300K miles and the next use Mobil 1 and his engine needs a rebuild after 50K miles.... It's all a big mystery to me...
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