It is 10.25 and hado the spring rate can't find now better feel that's for sure it is rebuildable. I will see soon.
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Where did you find it...at what price...have you run it in the machine...others will want to know...
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Here is my case welded up with the supports...be gentle...first time mig welding aluminum on a cheep welder with even a cheaper spool gun ($99). At least I didn't have any burn-through!
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https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/atvconn...9a74bc5e34.jpg
Haven't worked much on it . Been so busy with work lately. But got the kit on. I also got 1 side on but still need to sand blast and paint them black. |
Looking good!
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Here are some before & after pics of the LT80's updated braking system PC'd...don't have the pic of when I bought from ebay...but they were in tough shape...
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And here is half the case powder coated...
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Here is the other side...
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Okay I see the pics of your case braces
Can you please explain the welding process???? I have a 110 wire feed mig I have a 220V Hobart wire feed Mig with gas I have a 220V arc welder I have a torch and brazing setup I have a 220V plasma NEED TO BRACE MY CASE!!! Impressed with the DIY Dirtdevil! I was looking at that same orange shock on Ebay I built my extension plates yesterday I settled on a POlaris predator 90 rear shock. It is 10.25" eye to eye, no clevis They are not the best shock in the world but it fits my budget right now na dI have one here at the house I used for the fab. Once the predator shock is in place, I can now run any 90cc mini rear shock, Eaton, Kasea, etc I could not find the dimensions of the LT160 rear shock, or I may have gone with one of those to match the front. That orange shock is rebuild able and you can always swap out springs, check out Kasea parts they have different spring rates avail. |
LOL!!! Do you have a spool gun & 100% argon? I MIG'd those cases with a cheap-ass set-up...however I was trained by the best welder in the world (my Uncle)...
I'm not going to take credit for this as Jack Moore (LT80) told me what I'm going to tell you: 1) you need aluminum bar that is 1"x1/4"x at least 2 feet 2) cut that into three pieces...6", 2 3/4" and I think I went 4" on the last but will double check 3) First weld the 2 3/4" piece along the top, at the rear of the case (where the carrier mounts bolt up) 4) Abut the 6" piece to that and run it along where the clutch cover mounts 5) weld the last piece across the hole in the case diagonally (10 to 4ish) Not sure what your experience is with aluminum, but move fast as case is thinner than the bar...I had a couple close calls on burn-through Refer to my pics...I think the tell the story better than I do... I'm curious what the spring rate was on that orange shock...looks like a pit bike shock and they are sprung real heavy... |
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