I was wondering if anyone out there has an ids2 for there quad is it a lot louder than stock cause i live on a farm and ride moto on my lakota sport but do not want a real loud pipe because it will scare the animals please tell me if you think they are loud even at the quietest setting and do you have racing or quiet core thanks!

 

The IDS2 is one of the quietest aftermarket systems around that still gives excellent power.

On a 400EX it puts out 93 dB, where a White Brothers or FMF puts out about 99 dB.

The power is the same with the IDS2 as it is with most other good quality mufflers.

The only downside is they can be a little longer than other mufflers. On some bikes, they stick out past the rear bumper.

 

I totally agree with PamFalcioni (in fact, it was Powroll who recommended this pipe in the first place).

The IDS2 (race core) is the quietest pipe I've heard so far (with race cores). It seems to flow quite a bit of exhaust too (not restricted). Also, I think it's one of the best sounding pipes as well (doesn't sound like a VW bus with bad exhaust ~pointing finger at WB pipes~).

I must say, however, that the design for the 400ex is of poor quality. Don't get me wrong, the pipe's finish is excellent, and it doesn't stick out the rear much at all.

BUT, supertrapp's decision to only use a single hanger has caused me headache and frustration (it uses the rear pipe bolt on the 400ex frame - but not the front). Since supertrapp uses spacers instead of butting the pipe right against the frame, it causes undo amounts of leverage, and thus slipage, with the s-bend pipe right ahead of it.

Since the spacers allow the pipe to "flex" or bounce, this further enhances the slipage.

Now, supertrapp does send along a small rivet to stop this play between the pipe and the s-bend (you drill a small hole into the pipe where it connects to the s-bend pipe, then drop the rivet into it, and put the clamp over it). But guess what? That slight "flex" or bounce you get from riding eventually chews up that rivet until its destroyed. Once that happens, you can grab the rear of the pipe and rotate it a good 15-20 degrees (while mounted). The thing bounces around like a rag doll - further, it looks ridiculous (since the pipe sits at an angle).

What's more, no matter how tight you get that clamp (holding the pipe and s-bend together), it has no affect. Supertrapp's metal on that IDS2 is so strong, it won't flex to bite the s-bend pipe.

I'm highly disappointed at this setup.

My new solution (after wire, exhaust tape, etc.), was to remove the remains of the rivet, and drill in a short, heavy screw. So far, it has held.

Supertrapp has an excellent pipe with the ID2, and powroll didn't lead me astray (wanted max flow with min noise). But supertrapp's mounting setup is a joke (at least with the 400ex design). I mean, even with the pipe more secure (with the use of the screw) - how the pipe is mounted to the frame ends up acting like a big lever - translating directly to the headpipe studs. I would like to see more/better support for the pipe itself.

ogre

 

what kind of power gains did you see ogre? I ordered one because it was cheap, and have been around for a wile , so I thought It would be of good quality. I may have to rig up something better for the mounting though. sounds like a pain.

 

wheeliedude -

I can only vouch for the 400ex IDS2, I'm not sure what quad you have (I'll just assume that you have a 400ex).

I was a pain for me... but, now that you know of what's required, you shouldn't have too much trouble.

When you get the pipe, follow the directions on drilling the small rivet hole (make sure you have the pipe centered the way you want it, you might have to hold the pipe while you drill). Use the recommended drill bit size. But instead of dropping the rivet in it, get a similar sized screw (made for metal applications). Try and get one a little bit fatter (so the screw really bits into the metal), and get one that's fairly short. Drive it in with a drill. Then, put the clamp right over it.

It might actually be good if you used two screws (one on top, one on bottom - or wherever you can comfortably drill). I might actually do this as well (added insurance).

I can't really tell you what kind of power gain you'll get with the pipe alone, as I did engine modifications at the same time. I'll guess you'll get a 1-2 horsepower gain overall. From previous experience with other quads (pipe the only mod), I'm guessing you'll feel the most power increase on the bottom end - with a little mid-range increase. I've never felt any performance increase at the top end with a pipe alone (this being a four stroke, of course). The best way I know of to get better top end power is with an aftermarket cam designed with that in mind.

Remember to rejet. Without rejetting you will see no power increase, as well as running your quad way lean. If you need help with jetting (very easy to do), just look at the tech connection on this site, and do an advanced search (select carburetion and select all makes).

I'm running with 7 disks. I wanted to make sure it wasn't too loud (I tried 10 disks and was getting a bit too loud). Even with 7 disks, the pipe flows EXCELLENT, more than enough for my modded engine.

Hope this helps (didn't mean to jock the pipe too bad, I just call it as I see it).

ogre

 

thanks a lot. yes, I have a 400ex, but my signature didn't show. I mainly trail ride and like how I can adjust the noise level. I have the 400ex service manual, so re-jetting should be easy(pilot mainly, the main jet is simple, no manual needed)I was thinking 152-155main and 40 pilot. Should I raise the needle? the bike is stock except for the pipe I will get. I also may get a uni filter in the future, but just the pipe and jets for now. Thanks for replying.

 

wheeliedude -

Glad I could help - it's always nice hearing a thanks back, most people just take the advice and run.

As far as jetting goes, don't even worry about putting in a larger pilot (I didn't until I cammed it this summer, I put the pipe on last summer). All you need to do is give the air/fuel mixture screw about a 1/2 turn out. Don't mix this up with the idle speed adjustment. The air/fuel mixture screw is kinda like a fine adjustment for your pilot jet. It is located directly under your carb, right in front of your floatbowl.

This is a good adjustment to make even with a stock honda. Honda runs their carbs pretty lean from the factory. Side note: so many people complain about hondas being cold-blooded, all they have to do is turn that screw 1/2 turn out, then it starts easily even without the choke.

With the needle, I would raise it one notch (lower the clip one notch - just use a needle-nose). If it cuts out at middle throttle, then put it back in orginal position (most likely won't though).

With the main jet, be sure to check out the tech connection, you will learn all you need to know - trust me (plus its fun reading). But here's a quick summary of what to do.

Go to dealership, pick up these jets: 152, 155, 158, 160, 162, 165, and maybe a 168. Put the largest jet you have in it, then test. To test, leave it in 2nd or 3rd gear. get it rolling just enough not to lug it too bad - then roll on the throttle to wide open, and hold it til either A) it bubbers/skips/cuts out (you won't miss it) or B) you've reached the top of the revs without any signs of a rich condition.

If you get the result of A, you need to drop the main jet down one size and retest. If you get B, and this is your first test (i.e., the biggest jet you have), you'll need to get a few sizes larger at the dealership. Else, if you get to B by dropping down jet sizes because of A, then that is the right sized jet. Once you get to that right sized jet, drop the main jet size down one more (but no more than that). See, when you get to the point where it doesn't cut out from a overly rich condition - you'll be ok, but you will still be running a bit rich (my experience from looking at pistion dome while modding my engine). Dropping one more size should get it perfect.

The whole point of purchasing all these jets is to MAKE it run rich, it gives you a point of reference. Sure, you'll have a few extra jets lying around (you could return them) - but they are handy to have when you do more modifications (plus they're only a few dollars a piece).

I mentioned that you should purchase jets up to a 168, because with mine, it skipped at a 168 but not with a 165.

You really need to do this testing for yourself though, some people arrive at a 155, some much higher (like me).

This way is SO much more effective than plug reading, and much easier too. I have it down so good that it takes me about 7 minutes to switch out mains. The whole procedure doesn't take long.

Also, you will want to adjust your needle before you test the mains (the main and needle share jetting responsibilies from a little over 1/2 throttle to just under full throttle).

I really enjoy jetting - its fun to see how everything works together and how power is affected.

Hope this helps,
ogre

 

Great, thanks a lot ogre. That helped me out a lot. I know it is a bit of a pain to do the plug read on the 400ex because of the akward plug position. the way you explaned it sounds much better. Thanks for taking your time to help me. Greatly apprishiated.

 

Ogre,

I think Supertrapp changed their mounting system. The last one I saw had a second bracket, much nicer than the original system. It could have been a home-made fix though.

Your jetting description is spot on! Excellent wording.

 

I kinda think they may have changed it to.

I was looking through Dennis Kirk, and looked closely at the picture taken with the IDS2 pipe on a 400ex. It'd looked as if it made use of the second mounting.

I called supertrapp and let them know I thought it was changed, and I was having trouble with the old design. They sent me exactly the same s-bend pipe, same mounting hardware. I don't think they understood was I was saying. Oh well, they sent it to me for free anyway. I might have to give them another call.

ogre