Are these worth the money? What is the cheapest one you can rig up to help with carb tuning? I think K&N has one for around $200, which I don't consider cheap.

 

Scooby,first off I must compliment you on your persistance, I have been reading about your experiences with the Ron woods kit. As far as monitors go,I don't know. Have you tried contacting Dynojet? I have one of their kits in my 400ex,jetted it the way they said,and it works great! Also, I have a 2000 Road King Classic with fuel injection on it.They tend to run lean from the factory, so I put a Powercommander 2 (also made by Dynojet)kit on it, and it runs great now. Call them up ,they may be able to help you.
1-800-992-4993 or www.dynojet.com

P.S I don't work for them

 

Are you actually looking for the type of air/fuel monitor that they use on the fuel injected street bikes?

If you need something to get jetting spot on, what about an exhaust temp gauge? We've used them with excellent results for years.

 

Are you talking about an Oxygen sensor set up or what?
I have been thing of rigging one up my self.
A single wire O2 sensor and a small dvom might work good. Just weld a fitting in your head pipe close to the exaust port...
I think I have my jetting right on, but ya never really know till a sensor tells ya

 

PamFalcioni, No not exactly. The powercommander 2 is for fuel injection, I don't have fuel injection. I was thinking of an O2 sensor that is placed in the exhaust header and a meter of some sort. I have found several but they all require welding a sensor fitting into the header pipe, which I'd like to avoid.

Could you explain the exhaust temp guage? The exhaust temp will be a certain value when the jetting is on the mark? Where do you measure the exhaust temp at the tailpipe with a removable sensor? How much do they cost? What is a good model?

 

Dumb question, where do I bring the header pipe to have the fitting welded? Midas Muffler or something?

 

An Exhaust Temp. Gauge (EGT) is every tuner's friend.

There are a few variables always to keep in mind when tuning in a entirely new set-up. When beginning to tune a new set-up in you'll have to read plugs still, but take notes as you progress marking down the EGT's. You'll begin to notice what changes influence the temp's the most and by how much (i.e. 2 sizes on the main jet equals 100 deg +\-). Once you get a feel of what's going on in relation to EGT's, changes, and plug color, it's a snap after that.

Here's why you need to run plug checks in addition to EGT's, this is a problem that I ran into. With my MSD ignition I can retard the timing past the stock timing curve. With higher rev engines, they typically respond better with less advance at target peak RPM's (most single cyl's usually above 8000 RPM's). So off I go, merrily reading my EGT gauge, I hit target temp for length of runs I may be making, I think everything is A-OK. Not so. By retarding the timing, I was moving the heat too far out, as in, the spark was firing too late allowing the flame to travel down my head pipe. I get my temp's right I think I'm spot on without a plug check. Well, I foul a plug. What the!!!! So I do a plug chop and notice I'm rich. Hmmm. So I start snooping around and notice that my pipe is blueing. Hmmm. Then I start thinking of my timing curve and it hit me. I had relied TOO much upon my EGT and tried to skip the fundementals and not do an initial plug chop.

So with that. Here's some ballpark numbers on EGT's in relation to throttle position.

Idle 250-300F
1/4 400-600F
1/2 600-950'ish
3/4 950-1000
WOT 1100F

Mind you that these are ballpark figures and longer or shorter runs may dictate different requirments, these are pretty general in nature.

Always try to get your pilot circuit as rich as possible. As you enter a corner you roll out of the throttle, if you're right on, you'll help cool the cylinder more with the richest that it can stand without running into tractibility problems. Mid range tuning becomes MUCH, MUCH easier as you can readily see the temps and what's going on. Long extended WOT runs (desert racing, dunes) can be observed and EGT's can be watched and as they build you can roll out of it in time to prevent a melt-down or partial seizure.

There's quite a few companies that make EGT's. Expect to pay around $200, many can be purchased with a tach so that you use that for normal riding, and/or switch back and forth. They have proven themselves worthy and durable.

I admire your tenacity in getting your DS dialed in, I've been there before myself.....Good luck!!!

 

Scooby,
In my earlier reply, I wasn't trying to tell you to buy a Powercommander 2. I know you don't have fuel injection. I was just trying to let you know I've had good luck with Dynojet products.They have alot of experience with carb jets, on many different applications.They make a kits for the Mikuni carb, and I think you are running a Mikuni TM- 45. I just thought maybe they might be able to answer your questions about your carb.

 

I would not go with a O2 sensor to tune your bike, if go to the drag strip and look around at all the cars you would be hard pressed to find someone using a O2 sensor to tune their car.The reason is they are not very accurate at WOT. You will be much better off reading your plugs along with a Digatron LED readout tach/temp gauge.Don't buy a analog gauge because they can't handle the vibration, believe me I had one last only one day. you can also get a spark plug temp sensor with the Digatron that will help you no when you are dentonating. The exhaust temp will go down and the plug temp will go up. Digatron is first class and would not recommend any thig else. Also the exhaust temp sensor is no big deal just ask for the band clamp style sensor, all you do is drill a hole in your pipe! This works just as good as the weld on style.