Is there a way to check the T-Bap sensor w/an ohm meter??

I have an 05' 700 EFI that sputters and then dies at idle, won't throttle up. I've replaced the T-Bap harness with an OTB, New NGK plugs, cleaned the UNI air filter, and cleaned the T-Bap sensor. The TPS is set @ .710 (I never messed with it just checked it). The machine will run good with the T-Bap unplugged, and it isn't throwing a trouble code when its running poorly.

Any Ideas??

Thanx Dylan

 

What did you clean the sensor with?Any strong solvent or cleaner could damage it. Plus you say you replaced the harness with the heavy duty replacement and dies when its hooked up? Could be a direct short in the sensor or the harness itself or even deeper into the main harness.Can't remember test for T-bap off hand,will try to check. OPT

 

Cleaned W/MAF sensor cleaner. I'm thinkin' the sensor is sending the ECU incorrect readings telling it to richen the mixture to much. Was curious if there was a check that could be done on the sensor it'self w/an ohm meter. Forgot to mention that I checked the ETC too. I suppose it could be a short deeper in the harness. This is the second time I've changed out the T-Bap harness. The bike had the original harness go out @ 250mi. two days after I bought it, then again @2,600mi (a week ago) that's when it started running bad and giving me error code 41, and 45. So I ordered the OTB harness. When I changed out the harness and cleared the codes this last time they haven't returned. It should be pretty easy to ohm the wires going to the ECU from The T-Bap so I guess I'll try that this afternoon when I get time. I just think it's odd that it won't throw a code like it has in the past. If it is a short or open it must be pretty consistent, because I've been messing with it for three days now and it absolutely won't run more than about 30 seconds without sputtering, and quitting.

Dylan

 

Update:

I ohmed the wires between the T-Bap plug to where they come out on the ECU plug-in and "splice#3" all are good, I even wiggled it quite a bit to try and get it to mess up. All ohmed good. Next I tried to run it. Still same results, runs rough for 20 seconds, then dies, no codes. Then I ran it with the T-Bap unplugged, ran good with check engine light and code 41. While I had it running I checked fuel pressure, 39psi no matter what I did with the throttle. I pulled the TB off it next and carefully wiped it out with a clean rag. There was a little black gunk, but not enough for two shop rags. I rerouted some of the wires while I was in there, and zip tied them to keep them from chaffing. I double checked with the book the sequence of the wires that come out of the harness and go to the OTB harness, and as far as I can tell they are in the correct order (I couldn't imagine a problem with that anyway since it was running poorly before I started) So I guess I'm back at the sensor. Kinda makes me suspicious, since I can find nothing on the internet about them going bad. Would like to find a way to test it before I drop 90 bucks on something that I can't verify is bad. I don't know anyone else with a machine in town here, or I would ask to borrow thier sensor for a minute (all my buddies ride suzukis).

Dylan

 

Update:

Got the new T-Bap sensor installed. No change in conditions, still won't run longer than 20s and no check engine light/codes. Unplug the sensor, and as soon as the "Limp home mode" kicks in it runs fine. So I guess I'm gonna take the TB off and try resetting everything there. So does anyone have the procedure for setting the values on this w/out the special harness?? I don't want to wait for my dealer to get one in. On a side note, the ohm values between the spade plug-ins on both T-Baps were virtually the same.

Dylan

 

Sensors rarely fail as you found out plus there is no setting on the t-bap,just the TPS needs the harness,regulator and 9 volt battery if its been tampered with or a new one installed. Even hooked up to the Digital Wrench software at the dealers,shorts a lot of time wont show up! Did you check deeper in the harness on the T-bap wires? Don't know if having the dealer check it out or reflash will help,but may come down to this.?? OPT PS One other area to check is a short in the crank sensor harness and connector area that rubs on the starter,have found bare wires there that have caused similar condition as the t-bap???

 

Ohmed all the wires from T-Bap plug to ECU, then the one that goes to "splice #3" all beeped the meter.

I got it to idle with the TPS set @ .810 ohms idles @ 1150, won't throttle up though. TPS gives a smooth range of values with throttle input.

I'll check the wires by the starter tommorrow PM.

Thanx

Dylan

 

Found this on another site, does this make sense??


Side X Side Forum Archive :: Polaris Ranger and Polaris RZR Forums - general polaris ranger and polaris rzr discussions

 

Always used the harness kit for the tps adjustment,never went from the sensor itself OR if its completely accurate to measure this way?,BUT sounds somewhat logical except there must be NO throttle cable tension on the throttle body(loosen all the way) while measuring the vdc, PLUS the "d" ring idle adjustment driver beats the devil out of using needle nose pliers like on some of the ones that have come in for me to repair that have been tampered with and chewed up! OPT

 

Update:

Reset TPS values (they weren't that far off) No change, still no codes, won't run with the T-Bap plugged in. Didn't see any chaffing on the wires by the starter, seem like they're sheathed pretty good??? any other ideas?? No chance the ECU is bad without a code is there??

Have never taken ANYTHING to anyone to have it worked on but I'm getting pretty frustrated with this.

Dylan