2001 250 Trail Boss 4wd
#1
I just got the atv back from having a new cv boot and strut seal replaced. Now the 4wd. does not work on that wheel (right side) It was working before.
I have checked the wire into the strut and it has 12V to it when 4X4 switch is on. All 4 wheels jacked, only 3 spin.
I have rechecked clutch condition, installation etc. and refilled with new type "F" ATF fluid which I have always used.
Any ideas on what to check next will be greatly apprciated!
Thank you!
Rob
I have checked the wire into the strut and it has 12V to it when 4X4 switch is on. All 4 wheels jacked, only 3 spin.
I have rechecked clutch condition, installation etc. and refilled with new type "F" ATF fluid which I have always used.
Any ideas on what to check next will be greatly apprciated!
Thank you!
Rob
#2
2001 Trail Boss 4x4?? What ever 4x4 model you have if it has 12 volts to the hub coil and worked before the seal replacement I'd think it would be a mechanical problem after reassembly. Could be anything from a worn armature plate not allowing hilliard to engage,too loose or too tight on the hub nut (12 foot pounds only) Plus I'd use Polaris Demand Drive fluid,lighter and lubricates better than the old atf fluid.
#3
Must mean a 250 Xplorer. 2001 Polaris Xplorer ATVs Kinda looks like a 325 Trail Boss.
Someone must of put it together wrong. Like mentioned Castle nut torgue is important,fluid type and amount.
Someone must of put it together wrong. Like mentioned Castle nut torgue is important,fluid type and amount.
#4
Hi!
According to the Polaris parts manuals, it is a Trail Boss, model # W918127.
I have replaced the stator plate, correctly re-assembled it all and torqued the wheel nut to 12 ft. lbs. Still no 4wd to the right side.
It is assembeled correctly, the clutch and bearings are clean and in great shape.
There is 12v going into the strut housing. I am thinking it may be the wheel coil and if so, how hard is it to replace?
The guy who installed the boot & strut seal, dropped the A arm to pull the strut away from shaft. Maybe he pulled wires from the coil?
I am really frustrated with this and any suggestions what to try next will be appreciated!
ROB
According to the Polaris parts manuals, it is a Trail Boss, model # W918127.
I have replaced the stator plate, correctly re-assembled it all and torqued the wheel nut to 12 ft. lbs. Still no 4wd to the right side.
It is assembeled correctly, the clutch and bearings are clean and in great shape.
There is 12v going into the strut housing. I am thinking it may be the wheel coil and if so, how hard is it to replace?
The guy who installed the boot & strut seal, dropped the A arm to pull the strut away from shaft. Maybe he pulled wires from the coil?
I am really frustrated with this and any suggestions what to try next will be appreciated!
ROB
#7
You sure it's not a 1991 instead of a 2001 year model?
Rob
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#8
I have checked, there is 12v dc to the strut. The resistance between gray & brown wires is 2.5 ohms (should be 25-30) and instead of open circuit, gray to strut ground I have 25 ohms resistance.
Is there any way the adjustable strut seal sleeve has moved or is it likely the wheel coil?
Also my Polaris manual shows one diagram with the seal sleeve being on the inside of the strut, another diagram shows it on the outside with the axle stub. I am confused!
I have built many motorcycles from the ground up and have never experienced anything like this Polaris!
Any help will really be appreciated!
Rob
Is there any way the adjustable strut seal sleeve has moved or is it likely the wheel coil?
Also my Polaris manual shows one diagram with the seal sleeve being on the inside of the strut, another diagram shows it on the outside with the axle stub. I am confused!
I have built many motorcycles from the ground up and have never experienced anything like this Polaris!
Any help will really be appreciated!
Rob
#9
The coil fits on the machined place on the strut,the seal sleeve goes over it and should have between flush to .001 maximum clearance between the sleeve and the strut casting where the face of the coil rides.Also possible the coil wiring (gray) has a short in the coil it self,but also possible the sleeve could have moved or has been damaged if the Demand Drive hub fluid hasn't been changed often,an armature plate problem,or it may have some other internal mechanical damage. You'll have to take the hub off to really find out. All we can do is speculate as to the problem. Read over the manual carefully on this.
#10
The coil fits on the machined place on the strut,the seal sleeve goes over it and should have between flush to .001 maximum clearance between the sleeve and the strut casting where the face of the coil rides.Also possible the coil wiring (gray) has a short in the coil it self,but also possible the sleeve could have moved or has been damaged if the Demand Drive hub fluid hasn't been changed often,an armature plate problem,or it may have some other internal mechanical damage. You'll have to take the hub off to really find out. All we can do is speculate as to the problem. Read over the manual carefully on this.
With contradicting diagrams it is hard to even know where to look to check for sleeve clearances. Where is it? Inside the strut casting or outside?
I am sure you will know from memory. For me this a real learning experience!
Thank you for input. Once I find the part I can diagnose from there.
Kind regards,
Rob






