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Turn key and... Nothing

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  #1  
Old 07-15-2013, 07:03 PM
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Default Turn key and... Nothing

Hi guys. I'm a longtime peruser of these boards and have fixed multiple issues with my machine from answers posted for others. But now I've finally got an issue I can't find an answer for; hopefully you guys will see fit to help me out!

I have a 99 Sportsman 500 H.O 4x4. Last Wednesday I ran my quad for about 90 minutes with 0 issues. On Saturday I went outside, turned the key, and absolutely nothing happened. My first assumption was of course the battery, so I put my charger on it and it is showing 13.2 volts (97% charge). I put it on trickle mode and went inside for a few hours. Charger showed 100% so I turned key again to the same results. I took off cables, wire-brushed the ring terminals and battery posts.

Still nothing...

Using a test light I have power at battery, ignition, starter solenoid input (obviously I guess), and the sealed fuse, but NOT at the starter solenoid output, or the small red wire attached to the solenoid, nor anywhere else as far as I can tell. Nothing from any wire connected to the CDI, or the small/flat/square box to the leftish of it.

I might add that space is a bit tight as I mounted my wiring block for my winch on that metal plate above the CDI. {Several months ago so I know it's not an issue with my installation}

So now I surrender myself to you guys' seemingly infinite knowledge. Thanks in advance!
 
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Old 07-16-2013, 04:25 AM
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I'd check the switch wiring under the pod area for any cuts/bare wires. This is where all the twisting and turning happens on the wiring. The switch itself sends voltage to the small red power wire on the solenoid. Also it's not unusual for an ignition switch to short out stopping this from happening or a short in the wiring to the solenoid. We kept a few switches in stock for this reason at the shop. You can ohm out the switch,plus the switch has one hot wire entering it. If it doesn't have power on the Red OR Red/black wire,you might check the wiring from the emergency kill switch. One other thing,a battery may show full voltage 12.8-13 volts upon being fully charged,but can still have a weak or dead cell and not enough amperage. I'd have the battery load tested to eliminate it as a problem also. Look at the wiring schematic on this pdf manual to help you on the wiring if needed.Even though it only goes to the 98 model,the ignition system wiring is basically the same. Index of /ORV Manuals/Polaris/1996-1998 - All Models
 
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:09 AM
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Thanks for the reply. My volt/ohm meter is currently inoperable, so I'd need a new one for that. As to the wires from the switch inside the pod, test light is showing power from red and red/black. I understand that the battery may have a bad cell but I would think that if that were the only case there would still be power to light the gauge, electric starter button, etc.
 
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by project_grim
Thanks for the reply. My volt/ohm meter is currently inoperable, so I'd need a new one for that. As to the wires from the switch inside the pod, test light is showing power from red and red/black. I understand that the battery may have a bad cell but I would think that if that were the only case there would still be power to light the gauge, electric starter button, etc.
Since you don't have power to the gauge or start button,I'd definitely check out the connections and wiring on the left control switch and the switch itself as I mentioned also. If the wiring or slide switch contacts are bad this could be keeping power from the gauge,plus can be erratic on other things. Plus don't take a sealed circuit breaker for granted. I'd slice the pouch and check it for any corrosion. This 20 amp breaker is available at most auto stores.
 
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Old 07-16-2013, 02:20 PM
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I wasn't taking any chances and had already cut the circuit breaker pouch open. Test light shows power to both terminals and wires. I also ran a jumper straight across to completely make sure it wasn't the fuse. No real corrosion was present except a hazy white film that wiped off easily.

Now that I'm home from work I'll look into the switch on the handlebars and post back with results.

Oh, and how should I properly reseal that cut pouch?
 

Last edited by project_grim; 07-16-2013 at 02:21 PM. Reason: additional info
  #6  
Old 07-16-2013, 02:25 PM
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Rtv all around the two connections and staple or electrical tape around the pouch or both. I've done dozens like this.
 
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Old 07-16-2013, 03:23 PM
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Alright, here's where I'm at:

On the handlebar switch I used the test light and got power at the 2 orangeish/black wires on the connector closest to the Reverse Override. At the other connector I have nothing.

So like a genius I decided to take the switch apart and try to find corroded connections...instead I have only managed to almost lose 4 springs, 2 staple-looking things, and some sort of ball bearing. Should I even bother tryimg to reassemble this, or add it to the purchase list?
 
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Old 07-16-2013, 03:41 PM
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The springs sure are important,the staple looking things are contacts,the ball bearing moves by the red slide on/off switch to put pressure on the contacts. Unless you can find everything and replace it,sounds like you need to add it to the list. This control switch isn't cheap. $94 at Cycle Parts Warehouse.Some new ones are even higher on Ebay. Don't know if I'd trust a used one,but any that came off the same year model whether a Sportsman,Trail Boss ,Explorer 400,Express,etc would work.
 
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Old 07-16-2013, 04:00 PM
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Lovely... Luckily for me the starter switch/bearing/contacts/springs all remained intact. Using that as a guideline I suppose I have the pieces for the reverse override, but lost the remaining bearing and contacts for the headlight switch. If it comes to the worst I'll just have to be without lights for a while.

As to the wires, do I have proper power going into the assembly? I'm cleaning everything as I try to piece it back together, but if I still don't have any power to wires on the other connector, have I found an issue?
 
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Old 07-16-2013, 04:59 PM
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Hope this isn't in violation of double posting, but

Solved! (sort of)

I decided to forego the Reverse Override instead of headlights because since I've owned my quad, I've used the override twice and with my Mud-Lites all I was successful in was digging myself deeper. Plus, I've got a winch. So really the headlights are much more useful to me.

Anyhow, I cleaned all of the contacts and contact plates with a soft wirebrush and reassembled the whole thing the best I could (I'm pretty certain I put all the springs in the right places). I think I'm missing a short fat spring as well as the contacts for reverse override. My starter switch is a bit tighter than it used to be, but functions correctly. And now I have power.

Thanks so very much OPT! I would have completely overlooked that area if you hadn't mentioned it, and you saved me from spending $50 on a CDI that I would've thrown at it in vain.
 


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