you unplug the stator from the cdi and test the wires going to stator...i got 92 ohms...

 

Close enough on the pick up coil resistance as reading allows 20% +/- . If you have the black/red and brown/white wires OR black/red and solid red wire coming from the exciter(main stator) what's the resistance reading between these? First one is for a 150 watt stator,other is for a 200 watt system.Not sure which one you have..

 

ok tested the red/black and red...says 211 ohms....also question...can you read timing by taking the spark plug out and just cranking over with starter? i didnt see anything...even took the cover off and put some nail polish on mark...still nothing...i cked the key before and its good...and mark is lined up with stator cover i also tried to get to the electronic THINGY to put feeler gauges in it...its behind the flywheel...how the heck do ya ck it? it rides on the outside of flywheel...i have no room..i also dont have the bent feeler gauges...

 

Main stator exciter shows to be with in range (226 ohms nominal) Only way you can check timing is to have the engine at 3000 rpms,have the check plug out,timing light and rpm meter hooked up. Timing is the center mark(23.5 degrees) btdc.
Best to have longer type feeler gauges for some machines,but the main thing is to have the gap between the pickup coil face to the magnetic strip on the stator set between .016-.040 per the manual. If the gap is set between these measurements,pick up has already been checked out ok,main stator also checks out which both have AND you have spark,but wont run or run right,think any problem you have is somewhere else. Here's a video on setting pick up coil gap for different machine,but similar to Polaris stators.If you're fortunate to have a set up like his,easy to check the voltage output,but not necessary.

 

so ya think i should get back to testing the lower end? 7 psi and then go from there???

 

Only way to eliminate it is a proper leak down test. Even with new seals,cases them selves can be leaking,head or base gasket leaks or intake. 7-10 psi MAX is what I always pressurized to, much more than that and you take a chance on popping seals out.

 

the reed valves and intake wont create a vacume...they leak..badly...i put grease on both and they sealed up...i think i found something finally...besides the bad seals and doing the piston and bore job which was always a good thing...

 

May be other areas than just this. Leak down test should narrow it down if this doesn't help. Hope this is it and solves the problem.

 

after christmas here ill order the new reeds and intake...then ill test it...gotta start somewhere and this time i found something with a test...i may have to pull the whole motor but at least i can see something bad...thanks again for your help...i need all i can get

 

ok...i did some STUFF and things....ill tell ya what i did so maybe im wrong...but still....i took the muffler off...blocked that off took carb off and put my rad tester in it that i made a thing to fit the rubber boot for....left the rad system hooked up but took off the cap to see any bubbles if that happened...then i pumped the snot out of my tester...piston is all the way up to do lower....leaks like a old DAM....sooooooooo...i tore all i did down...cked seals...not leaking...both sides...cked head, base gasket all the work i did to it...it wont hold pressure....sooooooo...i sprayed the whole engine that i could see with bubbles...nothing...blocked off the vent lines too...its leaking someplace but i sure cant see it...do i have to pull the motor cause it could be leaking under at the split case part? And is there any wonderful thing these 400s are noted for in leaking???