no change on the jetting. I give it gas and it bogs and then picks back up. I pulled the limiter wire and after it bogs it almost runs away, im guessing because of the extra gas its pulling in. Now, the only thing I havent changed is the needle. Have you ever seen a needle worn? While running its dumping fuel in the engine. After a stop it, pull the carb there is gas puddles on the intake boot.

 

Leave the black wire unplugged from the limiter and see if there is any change. Forgot to mention that earlier. Some would limit in forward when this module failed. Plus throttle lever must be tight no more than 1/8" slack or you can can have problems with the etc switch in the throttle housing. Don't recommend disabling the etc switch but you could disconnect the white wire from it and see if it helps.
This is a section from the manual.
"The limiter also incorporates a throttle safety feature
called the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC). When
there is a mechanical problem in the throttle
mechanism (throttle plate, throttle shaft, or cable) and
the throttle lever is released, the ETC switch contacts
close. Power is delivered to the limiter module through
the white wire, and engine RPM is limited to the "ETC
limit". It is important to remember that ETC limiting will
occur whenever two input "signals" are present at the
limiter module:
1. The limiter module must receive voltage through the
ETC switch circuit (White wire).
and ...
2. Engine RPM must be at or above the "ETC Limit".
The RPM signal is delivered to the limiter module via
the Yellow/Red alternator wire."

If none of this helps then sounds like you're back to the carb. Plus is the rubber dampener still on the gear case that stabilizes the carb? This is to keep the carb from vibrating and dumping fuel. Again if the float arm is wobbly and worn along with the float pin these can cause problems. Not in any kit, dealer items only.

 

I had the black wire off and when I gave it gas it like to run away, meaning high rpm by itself. Its like when I give it gas it gets a big shot of gas and just takes off with the throttle closed. Leads me to believe I may have a air leak. With the black wire connected it doesnt not run away. After about 1/4 throttle it will clear out. But loads up really bad at idle. If i give it gas, it stumbles and the picks up, then idles high for a few seconds and comes back down. The only variable is jet needle. With the original needle jet being so worn, would the jet needle be worn also?

I pulled the clutches to inspect the crank seal, the inner lip was really really soft. So, im gonna change it out and the other side too, just to eliminate this as a variable.

Im gonna order the arm and pin. I shouldve just bought a running machine....polaris parts arent cheap haha. Thanks for the help.

 

Does sound like an air leak if the engine rpms jump like that. Could be a combination of problems on both the carb and crank seals causing this. Wouldn't think the needle itself would be causing this as I've never had to change many needles,just reused them.Float needle and seats,float arms and pins were the main wear items on the 400 carb. A lot of this was from vibration even with the carb dampener on the gear case. Once the new seals are in, carb parts are in,leave the limiter wire unplugged and see how it does.

 

How do I pull that gear off the crankshaft? Looks like three threaded holes for a puller?

 

Flywheel.. Needs a puller and (3) 8mm bolts. You can "rent" for a small deposit a good one at most auto stores or just buy a heavy duty steering wheel puller or harmonic balancer puller. Impact gun is a must. After it's pulled the stator plate needs to be removed. Make a MARK on the plate itself and case to make sure the ignition timing is correct when you reinstall the stator plate. The crank seal is behind the stator plate. Look at this video at the 3:42 mark on pulling a 700 flywheel,same basic procedure on the 400. Some flywheels are stubborn to get off.. Don't be scare to really tighten down on the puller bolt. Tapping the end of the puller bolt can help pop the flywheel off also. At times a little heat from a heat gun or propane torch on the crank shaft can help. Hopefully this won't be needed.

 

So, heres the update. Here's what Ive done in the last day. Replaced crank seals, replaced the needle, needle jet, float arm, float pin. Everything in the carburetor in brand new.....and its still doing it. I pulled the white and black wire, no change. So, I'm sitting there thinking and I remember you saying something about the vibration and flooding. I pulled the carb, bowl still full of gas, i tried blowing into the fuel line and cant. The float is working correctly. But, I start to shake the carb to imitate the vibration and low and behold, Im able to blow through it and gas starts dumping. So, long story short, I feel like the vibration is causing the float to not work and allow fuel to just flow. Is there a fix for this? It has a brand new dampener. The carb shake alot at idle.

 

If the bowl was full of gas and float arm working properly you shouldn't be able to blow through the inlet. Once you start sloshing the carb around,the float arm drops along with the needle and then you should be able to blow through it. Gas would then probably go through the over flow vent. Crank seals replaced,carb rebuilt and working right. If jets are clear and open and still bogs,only other thing I'd check is the reed pedals. If they're ok not split or distorted then I'd check electrical specs. Carbs will vibrate on the 400,but the dampener should have helped along with having all new internal carb parts and the crank seals.Stator Resistance Check: Stator black/red to red 226 ohms. Pick up coil white to white/red 97 ohms. Coil tab to ground .3 ohms. Coil secondary,tab to wire end(cap removed) 6.3k ohms. Plug cap 3.7-6.3k ohms. "CDI Output Test Using Peak Reading Adaptor"
Re-connect all CDl wires to stator wires. Disconnect CDl module wire from ignition coil primary terminal. Connect
one meter lead to engine ground and the other to the ignition coil primary wire leading from the CDI module. Crank
engine and check output of CDl wire to coil (130 DCV). Note: Average output with a regular meter, DCV should be around 20 DCV. Reconnect coil wire to Cdi.

 

Did I read that correctly....130 dcv?

 

130dcv ONLY if you have a peak reading adapter meter. 20 dcv with a regular multimeter.