I had it running, my daughter rode it for 10 minutes then shut it off to get something. WHen she went back to start it, nothing. It fires once in awhile but nothing to get it running. So I figured it was a fuel issue and to rebuild the carb. I bought a new carb (since it was damn near the same price as the kit) and put that in. Still nothing. It is getting fuel but no spark except once in awhile. SO I am stuck.. please help!!

 

Check simple things first such as a partially fouled plug.Check with a new one.First step on trouble shooting guide is to disconnect the black wire from the cdi and see if you have good spark.If you do have good spark check out the ignition switch and left control switch wiring. If no spark,I'd check out the stator area. Had more problems with stators than anything else on the 50s and 90s,but worth a shot to see if there is dirt or mud around the pick up coil face along with the flywheel area and clean this area up and check for spark again. The plastic cover design allows too much dirt,water and mud in along with air. Plus check that the safety switch and plug are tight.Plus if we're talking about the two strokes(2001-2006) wouldn't hurt to check stator resistance specs. Stator black wire to white/red,450 ohms. Black to black/red 800 ohms. Black to yellow/red 0.5 ohms. Black to white 0.6 ohms. Black to ground 0. Coil tab to ground 0.2-0.3 ohms.This should help you to narrow things down some.

 

Sweet, Thanks!!!

I did put a new plug in it. SO I will start running it down. I kinda knew most of the stuff to check (always working on snowmobiles and wheelers it seems) Just this one is a new animal for me.

 

Ok I figured out which wires were from the stator, and tested them. Here are the results. I also want to say, that if I check for spark. I do get 1 spark when I turn it over and then no sparks. I stop the starter. Hit the starter again and I get another single spark.

Results:
Black to White/Red - 455 ohms, spec is 450 ohms
Black to Black/Red - 861 ohms, spec is 800 ohms
Black to Yellow/red - 0.8 ohms , spec is 0.5 ohms
Black to White - 0.9 ohms, spec is 0.6 ohms
Black to ground - 0.4 ohms, spec is 0 ohms.
Coil tab to ground - 1.1 ohms, spec is 0.2 - 0.3 ohms

thoughts on these results?

 

Stator specs are +/- 20% so your readings show that the stator seems to be in range. I'd still pull the black wire from the cdi and pull the plug cap and check for spark with the bare wire against the cylinder. Check the ignition switch wiring and left control switch wiring for any shorts also.If these check out,plus you've cleaned the face of the pickup coil and flywheel area,could be a cdi problem,but this still sounds like something the stator pick up coil or left control switch would usually cause. Even better if you can pull the flywheel and clean the in side of it and the stator coils with electrical cleaner.If enough dirt is on the inside of the flywheel,wiring specs can still show good,but could keep it from getting a good spark. Just trying to make sure you eliminate all that you can before you buy any parts for it like a cdi module.

 

Ok heres the update OPT. Took off the flywheel cover and plastic cooling fins. The fly wheel was covered in soot as was the pick up magnet. So I cleaned them off and checked for spark. Finally spark, but its not a great spark like the first two or three fires of the spark, it seems to get weak.

So test run, got it to fire but now I think I have a fuel issue. I bought a new carb for it instead of buying the carb kit cuz it was only a couple bucks more. It idles ok but doesn't seem to have the umph to get going very well so if i push the choke lever over, away we go. So seems like its starving itself for fuel and or I have a comination of poor spark and fuel?

I am going to look up the carb adjustments unless you know them off hand. But what else can I do. I am kinda stuck here.

Thanks OPT!

 

Check that you're getting a good fuel supply from the tank to the carb. Just pull the fuel line at the carb and turn the valve to the on and also reserve position. Plus did you check the new carb jetting and float level against the old carb? If you didn't could be the jetting might be on the lean side especially since it runs better when you have the choke on.. Normally the air setting on the carb is 1.5 turns out from a lightly seated position according to the manual. Air screw is not as sensitive as a fuel screw setting,but you can also experiment with 1 1/4- 1 3/8 turns out just to check throttle response and see where it's the best.