Think you found your problem with the loose head bolts. Coolant looks like it got into the crank case and worked it's way up the head through the push rods and all into the valve cover. Cylinders don't look scored,but check the piston clearance.Flush the engine out with kerosene and dry. Now's the time to replace the water pump seal and inner oil seal while you have it down also. Just take the outer cover off and the seals just pop out and install new ones. Order a new inner case gasket also.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

After pricing gaskets and circlips, looks like for just a little bit more I can get an aftermarket top end kit. I have a flex hone if thats the right thing to use on this to de-glave and get cross hatches. Any experience with Namura kits, iv never heard of them?

Also is that seal you sent me the link to also the "oil" seal I keep reading about?

 

Flex hone or a ball hone is fine. All you want to do is just remove the glaze in the cylinders so new rings can seat properly.I've used Namura but not on the 700 but if they're designed for them why not. Yes the second link I showed is the oil seal in the case behind the water pump seal. Just remove the case side,pop out the oil seal,knock out the water pump seal from the inside and install both new seals in the case. Remember to get a new case gasket shown also. It's really hard for coolant actually to get through the water pump area into the engine because the water pump seal would have to be leaking along along with the oil seal for any of this to happen. Plus with the weep hole under the water pump cavity you would notice either coolant leakage or oil leakage if either seal failed in the first place. But still better to replace them since you're down this far on the tear down. Main problem you had was the loose head bolts causing the coolant to get into the oil system. Looked at the manual again and originally misquoted the rocker arm torque at 10 foot lbs. Should be 22 ft lbs. Head bolt torque is 35 as mentioned,BUT there is a sequence you have to take! Heads bolt threads needed to be oiled initial torque on the bolts is 15 ft pounds to seat the head gasket. Back off the bolts 5 turns(loose) then torque to 35 ft pounds. Final step is to go 90 degrees(1/4 turn) on each bolt after the 35 pound torque. This is to allow for any head bolt stretch. Possible if PO had installed a new gasket and didn't go through this sequence possibly the reason the bolts were loose. Really best to have the manual that Fasteratv linked to be on the safe side.

 

Thanks for all the input opt.
Now im confused on which kit to get, they give me 3 choices, but all for the same stock bore.






Kit is for standard bore size - 80.00mm
Size A pistons are 79.96mm
Kit is for standard bore size - 80.00mm
Size B pistons are 79.97mm

Kit is for standard bore size - 80.00mm
Size C pistons are 79.98mm

 

Since the cylinders are Nikasil plated some manufacturers offer pistons with slight"over sizes"for these to allow for cylinder wear to where a stock piston may be too loose. Same as what Ktm did as they offered A,B and C pistons for certain engines. I had it easy as I had all three that I could place in the cylinders and just check clearance with a feeler gauge. To be on the safe side I'd go with the B. It's practically a given that over the years the plating has worn down a bit and a stock "A" piston would be a loose fit. Plus a .01 mm jump only equals .0004 increase per piston which is really negligible but would help on ring seating and piston wear.

 

I got my kit ordered, looks like Thursday it will be here.

I need that much time to get this base gasket off. I have never had one so stubborn. Its gonna take me hours. Theres got to be a better way. Also How do I flush the motor with kerosene? Do I just dump it in over the crank and lifer area to wash the crap away?

 

Scrape the gasket with a gasket scraper(keep rags in the cylinder) Easier if you have an air grinder with a 3M abrasive pad like most shops use,but not necessary. Just takes time with a razor blade to get all the gasket off.Since the lifters are contaminated,remove them. Use a magnet to remove them from the bores. Clean with kerosene and soak in oil. Fill the case with kerosene and work the rods around and dump it. Do this a couple times and let it dry a little. Dump in a quart or so of cheap oil and roll the rods around.Let this oil stay in the case with rags stuffed in until you're ready to assemble the new parts,then dump this oil.

 

I decided to break out the die grinder with the 3m pads to get these darn gaskets off. Got everything prepped yesterday because my tracking shows parts will be here tomorrow, way sooner than anticipated.

I'm kind of worried about the head, there is pitting on it in multiple places where it looks like antifreeze sat. Looking at the old head gasket everywhere that's pitted on the head, the gasket has a very bright green color residue. I don't know weather to see if it can be milled, chance it like it is or what.

Any thoughts?

 

Just buff it out with the 3M pad. If in doubt you can have a machine shop check the head out for any warping. Wouldn't even hurt to have them mil about .005 or so from the head. Shouldn't cost that much at most places and can give you a little piece of mind.

 

I downloaded the manual, I must not have downloaded a good one, its not real easy to understand. The parts place sent me an A kit, not the B like I ordered.

Starting to check everything out for reassembly.

I came up with .015 piston to cylinder clearance on both.
top ring gap was .012 on one, and .016 on the other.

Also the manual doesn't show, but will the typical Honda ring orientation be fine?

Are these acceptable?