I know this has been talked about before and I didn't take much notice but now mine is creeping too. My HO creeps when idling, the idle is OK but I understand the problem is that the driven clutch needs shimming. Can anybody tell me what size of shim I will need?
Thanks in anticipation.

 

Here is a troubleshooter for creeping that I got from another forum. Thanks to Snowride for this.

First thing to check is that your idle rpm is set to spec.(if it's to high, it will cause creeping) This is most often the culprit. You will need to hook up a tachometer to do so. Simply turn out (counter clockwise) the idle adjustment screw until the proper rpm's are achieved. The engine should be warmed up fully when making the adjustment. If you own a 2003 or newer, you can put the speedometer in diagnostic mode and bring up the tachometer. (See your owner’s manual for instructions) If you have a 04, just look at your neat full time tach.

If the idle speed is set to spec and the problem persists, it is most likely a weak main spring in the primary clutch. Purchase a new one and replace it.

If you have a machine with EBS (all new machines over 400cc), another cause of creeping could be clutch misalignment. This is not as bad as it sounds. Basically, due to wear, the belt might not return to center in the front pulley properly. To check this, remove the belt cover, start the engine in Neutral, and rev it up a little. Watch carefully as the belt returns to rest in the front pulley. It should return to center. If it doesn't (it almost always crowds the engine if it doesn't) you will need to shim the rear pulley so that it does. Remove the center bolt, and with a sharp tug, the pulley should come off. If the belt crowded the engine side, add a couple shims (you can get them from Polaris, but they are usually cheaper at an implement dealer like John Deere - just take a shim that is already there with you so they can match the size). Put the pulley back on, and try revving the engine again in neutral. Add/remove shims until it returns as close to center as you can get it. Just remember to always leave at least one shim behind the pulley, and grease the splines very lightly before re-assembly of the pulley on the shaft.
If setting the idle, changing the spring, or shimming the pulley doesn't cure the creeping problem you probably have worn out parts in the front pulley.

Hope this helps. If you need any diagrams, I can provide links.

 

Thanks NCScrambler (Snowride), that's what I was looking for.

 

Hey NCScrambler, I like your Sunpro Tach and was looking at them until I ran across this

So how'd you do it? Is it reliable? What does the EGT gauge do for you?


sorry to hi-jack your thread Traildog [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

That is a bunch of bologna!! It works fine, but I do not think it will work on 4 strokes. It is very reliable and accurate, weatherproofing is a must. Clear silicone does the trick. I know a few people on here who run them also with the same good results that I have had. Sorry It won't work for your machine though. The EGT gauge, which stands for (exhaust gas temperature) is a good tool for helping with modifying and jetting changes. It offers an instant temp. reading of the exhaust gases in the pipe to allow me a better idea of the correct carb tuning for my bike. It is a real asset if you do alot of mods frequently and also allows you to keep an eye on the heat levels. For example, I know that I should run around 1300 degrees at WOT, so if it is over 1300 I know that I am too lean and will burn my engine down shortly, if it is below 1300 I know that fuel economy and power can be gained by lowering my main jet. It works that way with all throttle positions and once you use one, you are probably going to get hooked. It is not to be used as a stand-alone gauge for jetting, rather as an extra guide along with the spark plug for dialing in your jetting. Hope this helps explain the EGT.

 

What nc says is true,but a quick check of something will tell you if it is the primary clutch.
take off your belt and look at the center hub.there is a one way sprague in this hub on an ebs model
this is the center hub that the belt lies on with grooves on it.
if you can move this hub back and forth(side play) this is the culprit.The dealer(or yourself if you have the tools)can pull apart the drive clutch and replace the shims with new updated ones to get rid of the side play. These are not the same as regular shims under the spider,they are side cushion shims for the sprague. When there is side play on the sprague,the belt will jump over against the fixed sheave and cause creep. It is a preety quick and cheap fix at your dealer. One other thing...once you have the creep,the grooves on the under side of your belt have been distorted,and even after you fix the clutch,it could still creep a little,so get rid of that belt. All 2001 ho's are about due for this if they have about 2000 mi,it is very common.
ps,quite often these need a extra shim behind the sec clutch(check with alignment tools),but too often people that do not understand what's happening just try to keep shimming out the secondary to move the way the belt tracks in the front clutch,and sometimes it will work,but if you have side play in the front hub,fix the real problem,it does not cost much. Dale

 

Thanks NC!! Explained it perfectly....although I'm not quite to that level of modding or expertise.....yet [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

Your thoughts?
The belt has had a little drag since new, this has been a P problem with 01s that they have not addressed unilaterally. I know of people that have had the complete clutch assemblies replaced and still end up with the same problem (dealer problem). The creeping is not right; it makes engagement of another gear, noisy (teeth grinding).
As I'm going into the clutch anyway I have a plan! I still have a set of weights from my long gone 98 Sportsman so I will purchase a stock spring (green/blue I think) for a 98 and install it along with the 98 weights into my 01 Sportsman. I always liked the clutch engagement of the 98 and never liked the 01 engagement so this should make for a good experiment.

 

Rock, westach makes a speedometer for the Polaris 4 strokes ( need something that will work with a 6 pulse ignition) Something around $80. It is not on their site. You can email them for more info. The only other place that I know of that has a tach for our scrammy's is the Tiny Tach