chains and stuff
#11
I just put on new chain and sprockets. Went with DID-Xring chain. I have not had a O-ring chain masterlink ever go on easy and the DID one was no exception. I use a small pair of channel lock pliers to squeeze the link between and on each side of the pins. This has worked very well for me, you just have to keep working it. If you can afford it it is best to use new sprockets with new chain. EK chain is strong, Primary drive chain has a good tensile strength rating. Regina (stock) wears fast and stretches easily. My stock Regina stretched over 1/2 inch when I laid it next to the new DID chain. DID, Renthal, Moose have good reps.
#12
Originally posted by: Stickhauler
I 3 have a DID Xring chain on my machine. I damn near had to press the outer plate onto my master link to get it on. Haven't had any problems with their chains in the past. I also am partial to Sunstar sprockets. They are the best for the money. IMO!!
I 3 have a DID Xring chain on my machine. I damn near had to press the outer plate onto my master link to get it on. Haven't had any problems with their chains in the past. I also am partial to Sunstar sprockets. They are the best for the money. IMO!!
#13
okay, guys i think i will go with the did x-ring. sorry im stupid about the process, but i am gonna try to do this my self. one question, why the chain breaker, i thought that once the chain is laying out the chain is connected by overlapping pins, meaning that the links just pull apart?
#14
If you buy the chain in the right length no cutting or breaking is necissary. If you buy more than needed you will need to cut or break it. The pins are mashed on each side of the side plates to keep them from slipping out. It is a little expensive to miss cut a chain so count the links twice before you cut. I like to lay the old chain next to the new one to make sure I get it right. Don't be suprised if they don't line up exaclty, the old one may have stretched. You don't need a breaker, but they do make it easier. Grind both pins on one side so they are flush with the side plate, now you can knock that link out with a punch. A vice helps on this step. I use a breaker like this one from Northern Tool (chain breaker). Let me know if I can help you at all. I've done this many times.
#15
hey fish, screw that whole buying a new chain thing, started looking around at my bike and found that the chain was full stretch, and the missing roller was right next to the master link, so i took your advise, and got out the trusty dremel, 10 minutes later, broken link gone, and chain back to new length, and ready to ride, thanks for the help, its just too bad i dont have your address i would have sent you the money i was gonna spend on the new chain.lol. (please dont give me your address)
thanks again
james
thanks again
james
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