I'm pretty sure you will be going into the bottom end,the dome will clean up just fine with a dremel.

 

Brent, the cases are so easy to do on those it's not even funny. In fact I think CED could do it with a blindfold on.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] It takes longer to pull the motor than it does to split the cases.

 

Heck yeah,this past saturday i replaced the seal behind the gear on the crank.It was sucking the counterbalance fluid into the crankcase.It didn't like burning the 30wt oil to much.It was done from start to finish in about 30 minutes.Like Bubba said it is very easy,i'm we could all help if you need.Get in there and get it right.

 

Did you look in your pipe/muffler to see if the UFO was in there?

 

Yea I shook the pipe and didnt hear anything maybe ill check with a lite.
Ive had the cases apart before (a year to be exact). I replaced all crank bearings, and counter balance berngs and seals.
the only thing that wasnt fresh was the lower rod bearing. ERRRRR!
So what do you do, just press the crank apart and then press it back together? Also will i have to re-do my crank endplay shims? And how hard is it to get the crank weights back aligned perfect... this is kinda why I left this bearing alone.

 

what was the tank gas level when it seized?
a too low level of gas in the tank can cauze leaner mixture.
if the crank bearing are fresh,you can still run til it got some loose.

 

Send your crank to Rick and he will send you one that is ready to go for around $120.Unless you have a local shop.

 

Well I checked my lower rod bearing runout, the book calls for .0013 and I got .0018 [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img] i cant see the needles in there to save my azz, the rod is blocking my view, no matter wich way I turn it or push it.
Looks like Ill be tearing it the rest of the way down later this week. I want this thing rite. It would be nice if I could salvage the rest my crank bearings and seals. I bet they only got 20hrs on them.

Are these needle bearings prone to failure? Does .0018 sound bad?

 

Most of the time the connecting rod bearing fails because it is used over and over again.Mainly because it's not easily changed like the rest of the bearings.Heat will kill them also,that's how mine went,i leaned it out just a little too much.You should be closer to the book specs.

 

I think I was reading the dial indicator wrong. Its got .001 written in the middle of the guage, and the scale goes up in incraments of 10, 20 ect... the needle went to 18, so this is .018 not .0018 correct?