Pred problems and solutions.......help........
#11
Thanks....I just joined the Pred Owners the other day. I will say they take a long time to reply, nothing like here. They do have some nice Preds for sale on there. The last time I talked to Doug he did not have any TLD Preds just the Std.
#12
I feel the stock gearing is good for a light racer 14/37. On the other hand a 13 tooth up front will wear out your chain quicker because of the shorter pitch also creates heat!
I am currently running 14/38 and I love it, the reason for the shorter gear up front is to have the engine at a higher rpm when MX, Wood Riding etc. If the engine gets down beyound 1/4 throttle in a higher gear it will bog because of the vacuum slide not opening soon enough.
I just recieved my project carb for my Predator and I should have results posted by the end of the weekend if everything goes well.
I am currently running 14/38 and I love it, the reason for the shorter gear up front is to have the engine at a higher rpm when MX, Wood Riding etc. If the engine gets down beyound 1/4 throttle in a higher gear it will bog because of the vacuum slide not opening soon enough.
I just recieved my project carb for my Predator and I should have results posted by the end of the weekend if everything goes well.
#13
For the seat, take it to an automotive restoration shop. Tell them how you want it. They can play with foam, and make covers. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] For front brakes sticking, try polishing the caliper bore. Not too smooth tho. Also, check the brake light switch. That was a problem on a few cars. The switch pressed the lever/pedal in far enough to make the caliper hang up. For the oil tank, I'm sure someone makes an upgrade tank. More oil=cooler oil.
#14
Originally posted by: Bradracer18
Bryan.......So if you were going to cut the sub frame(I know where you are talking about) but would you just unbolt it and cut off the part where it bolts up........or leave that piece(the piece with a hole in it and its kind of flat too).....and cut just above it. I assume you would cut right about it. How much are you considering taking out? I was thinking about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. Also, do I just weld it back up.....or do I need to somehow support it better there?? I don't want the box to hit, but I also plan on taking it out real soon.....so that's not too big of a deal.
Thanks again guys....and keep 'em comming
Brad
Bryan.......So if you were going to cut the sub frame(I know where you are talking about) but would you just unbolt it and cut off the part where it bolts up........or leave that piece(the piece with a hole in it and its kind of flat too).....and cut just above it. I assume you would cut right about it. How much are you considering taking out? I was thinking about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. Also, do I just weld it back up.....or do I need to somehow support it better there?? I don't want the box to hit, but I also plan on taking it out real soon.....so that's not too big of a deal.
Thanks again guys....and keep 'em comming
Brad
You are right Brad. Right above the mount hole at the weld is where I'm going to cut it. As I've said though remember its like shortening the legs on a right triangle. A small change at on the legs is going to make a BIG change on the subframe where the seat will ride. I wouldn't do any more than 1/2". Personally I'm only gonna do it in 1/4" incriments and I think 1/2" will be the max I'll wanna take it. When I used to race dirtbikes we did this quite a bit, and centimeters(not inches) made a BIG difference. Rememeber its like a haircut.....Its a whole lot easier to take more off than try to put it back on. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
#15
Bryan......that is what I was thinking, taking it small........this isn't something you want to rush. I do think that it will help the configuration of the seat though, also while lowering my center of gravity some too.
NJ.......Thanks for the info.....I'll look into that on the brakes....
Ernie......Thanks again for the gearing advice, and I hope everything goes well on the carb. Hurry up and give the results!!!!!!!!!
NJ.......Thanks for the info.....I'll look into that on the brakes....
Ernie......Thanks again for the gearing advice, and I hope everything goes well on the carb. Hurry up and give the results!!!!!!!!!
#16
Well all I have to say is why didn't Polaris do this a long time ago. Low end, mid range, and top end is fantastic. That 42mm TRX450R stock carb is the only way to go when you are on a budget.
Carb assy. #16100-HP1-672
Throttle Cable #17910-HP1-000
I used a left over Yamaha Raptor thumb throttle.
I think the web site is www.servicehonda.com to get the parts.
Carb assy. #16100-HP1-672
Throttle Cable #17910-HP1-000
I used a left over Yamaha Raptor thumb throttle.
I think the web site is www.servicehonda.com to get the parts.


