CV Boot Change
#2
I had to change the rear outside CV boot you will need a special wrench to clamp the clamps it is about $40. It is kind of hard you will have to take the whole CV joint apart to slip the boot on. It took me and my uncle about an hour and a half, hs is very good with mechanics. Before you do this buy the shop manual.
#3
About the only 'special' tool you will need are the clamp pliers. Otherwise, they are a takeit apart, put it together affair. They take a little know-how, and a lot of patience. I have worked on car joints before, and they aren't that bad if you have a manual to look for for help. Haven't done one on my atv yet. Has anyone tried the split boots yet? They work on a car, are easy to replace, but I don't know how well they would hold up in atv use.
#4
I have bought universal cv boots from the auto parts store. They do not work, they eventually come off. As for the clamp, you do need a special tool to get them off and put them back on, i have tried everything and unless you have the tool, it is almost impossible. You definitely have to take the whole cv joint apart. Have fun!!!
#5
Quad father,
This is very simple process that can be perfomed in your sleep. All you have to do is disconnect the tie rod end and ball joint. When you pull out on the strut, the axel will pull out of the race. Remove the old boot, and slide the ne boot onto the axel. When you get it on the axel, slide it far enoiugh that it is completely out of your way to make reinsertion into the race easy. Once it is reinserted, reconnect the ball joint and the tie rod end. Then put your clamps back on. I have done this with just a pair of needle nose pliers, but I now have a set of clamp pliers. You will have to turn the handle bars to get a good angle on the clamp. Make sure the clamp is in the groove, or it will not catch. If all goes well, it is a 30-45 minute process.
Good luck, and try it awake the first time.
Greg
This is very simple process that can be perfomed in your sleep. All you have to do is disconnect the tie rod end and ball joint. When you pull out on the strut, the axel will pull out of the race. Remove the old boot, and slide the ne boot onto the axel. When you get it on the axel, slide it far enoiugh that it is completely out of your way to make reinsertion into the race easy. Once it is reinserted, reconnect the ball joint and the tie rod end. Then put your clamps back on. I have done this with just a pair of needle nose pliers, but I now have a set of clamp pliers. You will have to turn the handle bars to get a good angle on the clamp. Make sure the clamp is in the groove, or it will not catch. If all goes well, it is a 30-45 minute process.
Good luck, and try it awake the first time.
Greg
#6
Take it to the dealer if you are not mechanically inclined and have a good place and proper tools this is one area that can be costly if not done right, I had to replace a rear CV boot took it to the dealer 50 dollars later new boot. is the rear harder or easier than the front to replace? the rear looks harder to me.
#7
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