I dont think you can just plug it , it will continue to pulse. Pull the line and check for oil flow.
adjust accordingly , see below.....

Jim

Polaris, Injector Pump Care, 2-cycles only

For owners of the 2 cycle oil-injected engines, there are a few tips you should know about. Listed is for the 400 engine, but most should apply to the 250 & 300 as well.
About once a year or so, the oil injector adjustment should be checked. This is pretty simple & explained in the owner's manual, but here is a refresher: Remove the injector pump cover (easy to find, just follow the oil line from the tank) and look carefully inside. There should be an index mark on the linkage arm the cable connects to, and another cast into the pump housing itself. Have a friend (or you can use a rubber band in a pinch) apply pressure to the throttle lever to the point where the throttle is just about to start opening, but doesn't. The marks should be in line. If not, adjust the cable so they are.
Now for the rest of the story. The cables sometimes get rusty, or the lube dries out of them. Since thumb pressure opens it up to pump more oil, but a small spring returns the lever to it's idle position, they almost always stick 'open' if they stick. Symptoms include 'burning oil' odor, excess smoke, and fouled spark plugs. If the cable just appears 'dry', remove the seat & left side panel. Find where the 2 cables connect into one. You can open this up with gentle persuasion. Apply lube to the cable that goes down to the injector, and make sure it works freely. If it is rusted, about all you can do is replace the cable.
Sometimes, moisture gets in the box. It is a good idea to spray WD-40 in there after doing your annual calibration check. This will disperse any moisture, and help seal it out better for next time. Not only does moisture cause rust, it can freeze things up in cold weather. If, after riding through snow, slush, or water the throttle seems 'stuck' in below-freezing temps, the first place to look is the injector pump box.


Polaris, My 2 cycle fouls plugs
A fairly common complaint with the 2 cycle Polaris machines is that sometimes, they foul plugs what seems like way too often. While it should be known that a 2 cycle will foul plugs far more often than a 4 cycle will (due to 2 times as many firing sequences, and the fact that it burns oil with the gas) the plugs should go a while. On my personal Xplorer, I have over 3000 miles on the plug currently in it, and it is still going. First off, the jetting needs to be set properly. If you have an un-modified machine, chances are the company/dealer has it set up properly. However, if you changed exhaust pipes, you probably need to rejet. Sometimes the pipe manufacturer claims no rejetting is needed, but it is still a good idea to check. The best way is to ride around a while, and check the spark plug. It should be dry, and have a tannish brown color to it. If it is black, or appears blistered, refer to Snowride's excellent article on how to re-jet. However, black fouling can also be due to over-injection of oil, especially if the oil has a 'scabby tar' look to it. If this is the case, you need to check out the injector pump calibration, and also check for a frozen, or rusted pump cable. Both the jetting tips, and injector pump calibration tips can be found here: LINK

 

Jimmy's post reminded me that I have not worked on an oil injection system for a real long time! Forgot about the cables controlling oil delivery. Thanks Jimmy! Great info!

I couldn't tell you the volume of that particular head, Ken --or any head for that matter! Haven't done a volume measurement since WAY before working on oil injection! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

14:1 is up there. That thing should RIP once you get everything dialed in!

However, the problems you described---eating pistons and breaking rings--- are just the sort of thing that happens to a piston under heavy detonation. Like the kind of detonation you'll get running pump gas with a 14:1 compression. It's not burning pistons---it's smashing them. Detonation will cause the ring lands to break, piston skirts to crack and all kinds of other ugly things. When the lands break, there is nothing to hold the rings in place and those will break too, scoring the hell out of the cylinder. I'll bet that is the cause of all the problems. Detonation is like hitting the piston with a hammer--it's very violent and uncontrolled.

Before you tear it down, make sure it's got good compression. With a 14:1 ratio, it should be VERY difficult to move past top dead center.

 

Starting fluid works better, it's easier to tell when you've found it but it's a lot more flammable so be careful. This is what I use and have never had a fire, but I am careful and use some common sense when doing it. ie: don't spray near exhaust or spark plug wires.(There could be a minute crack in insulation causing sparks you can't see.)

 

sparky, that reply made your name seem humorous [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

but really though, I am an ase certified mechanic that has only worked on 4 strokes his whole life, I'm not a youngster except when it comes to 2 strokes.

I definitely want to narrow down this before I take it on a 40 mile hike to crown king, if anyone knows that route living here in the phoenix area, it as an awesome ride

thanks guys!

Ken

 

Well, I know that on a lt250r the head gasket can be put on more than one way but you gotta make sure that the big holes for the water jacket go on exhaust side or the cylinder will get too hot on exhaust side. Don't know if the scrammy has any kind of little quirks like this.
Do you have the right plug in it?
What's the plug look like?

 

Crown King---man, I miss Arizona!! We took my buddy's pickup on a run up that trail. Beat the living hell out of his truck, but the scenery is out of this world (at least for someone born/raised in New England!).

Definately miss the weather. Spent many weeks on 2 wheels.

It's been raining here for over 10 days now. We've got 11+ inches of rain THIS MONTH so far!!!! holys**t!!!!